New to trains. First track and locomotivie. Running an N scale Bachmann EMD GP40, 63552 locomotive on a new Kato M1 set. No rolling stock. It doesn’t start to move until the controller is at 75% speed.Is this normal? Is there a fix? Anyone know what may be wrong if anything?Once it’s up to full speed I can back it down below 75%, maybe to 25% and it continues to run.No hesitation or light blinks while it’s running. Locomotive was purchased used but it was only run once after lubrication and is in like new condition.Thank You very much for any advice you can send my way!
If your controller is up to snuff and providing reasonably accurate power across its intended range, then you're using up a ton of amperage to get your tiny loco moving. If you were to leave it for a while, you might find it running a bit warm when you touch it. Mebbe...mebbe not.
Have you metered the rails to test the output of your controller? Is the voltage at max on the controller near the max for the scale?
I have one Bachman loco, a Spectrum heavy 4-8-2. Nice, runs well, looks good, but it does take a whack of speed steps on my Digitrax DB150 before it will budge. I think I have it set to about 45 on CV2, which is 'v-start'.
M1 is a DC layout.
If this is a DCC loco running on DC, it will take more juice to get it moving than a DC loco, but 75% is extreme. Are the wheels clean?
to the forum, your posts are moderated for a bit. Don't know how you managed to get your text to print like that, but it's hard to read.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
RevTx1,
Not normal for a DC powered (Bachmann EMD GP40, item 63552 is DC) N scale locomotive to require about 9 VDC to start moving. You should not be surprised however the locomotive has issues since you bought it used. Bachmann has retooled this model, surmise you got an old one.
Since the locomotive will run at 25% throttle after it has started running, problem can be electrical, mechanical or both. Remove shell and look for loose wires. Wires good look for gear and wheel set binding.
The locomotive may have to be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled.
BTW – If a DCC decoder has been add it would be normal for it to require 7 to 9 volts DC to power the electronics. Since locomotive will run at 25% throttle it being DCC equipped likely can be ruled out.
RR Baron
I have never had to run N scale but HO scale not very high for a DC loco to begin moving. It might be a mechanical issue.
Are you running it with a decoder?
With a dual mode decoder, the decoder needs at least five volts DC just to wke up and maybe a couple volts more for the loco to begin moving. Decoder logic operates at about five volts DC the last I heard. I have seen this a number of time in different forums and Bachmann forums.
Edit.
I just looked up the loco, it is a DC loco. What is the power pack type? I assume straight DC?
Have you run a different loco with this power pack?
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
First, thank you to everyone who has responded in order to help me troublehsoot!
I don't have a voltage meter but I'll see if I can get a hold of one and check that out. My controller is what came with the Kato M1 starter set. Kato Controller Model 22-014.
RR Baron,
Thanks! No decoder in it. It's DC. I cleaned up the wheels a bit and also noticed quite a bit of thick grease on the gears so I cleaned that up a bit as well thinking it may have been overdone. Didn't notice much difference.
I removed the plastic shell but didn't see any exposed wires. Looks like that would require opening up the metal body which perhaps I will take on.
Update on performance. Sometimes it gets going at 45-50% power, sometimes it takes 75% power. Lights come on at about 45% power and if I give the locomotive a tap on top it starts running at a crawl. It doesn't run at anything less than 45%. Does this point to anything else in that a tap on top gets it going at 45% but if I don't tap it the engine needs 50%-75% power to get going on its own?
I've also run it at full speed for about 20 min and the locomotive was warm but I wouldn't say it was overheating.
Thanks again!
it may run better with a PWM throttle or a DCC decoder which drives the motor with PWM (and monitors speed with BEMF).
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Many engines built the last 20 years or so come with a green 'light board' (which often now has a receptacle for a decoder). The purpose of the light board is to allow for alternating headlights (only light in direction of travel would be on) and 'constant lighting' operation on DC power.
The idea re constant lighting is that the first say 3 volts of power only go to the lights, and it would only be after power got above 3 volts that it would start to send electricity to the motor. So, when you're running the engine and need to stop it, you can cut power down to where the engine will stop running but as long as you don't go all the way down to zero the lights will stay on.
If you remove the lightboard and wire it for straight DC, it probably will start at a much lower amount of power.
RevTx1I don't have a voltage meter but I'll see if I can get a hold of one and check that out.
A Harbor Freight meter is good enough and costs between $5 and 0 if you have a coupon. Whenever a question of power comes up, being able to measure what is going on is absolutely helpful.
If you are powering track with 2 wires and depending on rail joiners for the rest of the layout, it may be that there are some underpowered areas of track that is giving you that variability in starting.
The below links should help you. I use the meter for some years. The meters work just fine.
Seen you in the Bachmann forums also. Good luck.
Just make sure when measuring there is a loco on the track at that point or there will be no voltage drop. You need a load for a voltage drop.
The meters might look different but I suspect made by one company in China for different distributors.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm
Two meters for voltage and current at the same time. I have four of these meters. I bought them when they were $2.00 each.
Longer probes and wires cost more than a meter. lol
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_HF/index.htm