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DC wiring for yard ladders

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  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Thursday, August 9, 2018 8:51 PM

 Yes, depending on the brand of turnout and the connection on the throwbar, you substitute one of those other ends.

                                      --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Thursday, August 9, 2018 5:59 PM

[quote user="gmpullman"]

Do the arms on the sprue replace the arm shown attached to the throwbar?

 

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,235 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Thursday, August 9, 2018 4:38 PM

yellow_cad
Do you believe this to be unneccessary? Add Quote to your Post

There's already a bronze strip for this purpose at the "heel" of the point assembly.

The points are joined by a soldered connecting bar riveted to the plastic throwbar. At the "hinge" or heel end there is a bronze strip under the rivet which provides the appropriate polarity of current to the closure rails and the frog. 

 

This says "DCC Wiki" but the same rules apply for DC:

https://dccwiki.com/Turnout

 

Hope that helps, Ed

  • Member since
    January 2018
  • 30 posts
Posted by yellow_cad on Thursday, August 9, 2018 4:33 PM

The jumper wire I am referring to is one that connects each point to its respective closure rail so that no conductivity is lost in that connection.  Do you believe this to be unneccessary?

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,235 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Thursday, August 9, 2018 3:43 PM

The Shinohara turnouts should have a bronze contact embedded where the throw bar and points meet the stock rails. Keep these clean and make sure they carry the power as designed.

Additionally, if you are using hand-throw switch stands you can wire the diverging routes through additional contacts such as this Caboose Industries 220S ground throw has:

 Caboose_220S by Edmund, on Flickr

yellow_cad
I do intend to solder jumpers at the point hinges

I never found that really necessary. I would pass a folded piece of fine emery between the point and stock rail to keep the contact area clean to be sufficient. I'm not sure what you mean by soldering a jumper at the "point hinges" since the point "assembly" pivots on one rivet and the points have to change polarity each time the switch is thrown.

Good Luck, Ed

  • Member since
    January 2018
  • 30 posts
DC wiring for yard ladders
Posted by yellow_cad on Thursday, August 9, 2018 3:35 PM

For my yard, I have two older Shinohara triple yard ladders end to end so that so that I will have a total of six spurs that dead end. From a previous thread, it appears that my only source of juice for this yard needs to be at the beginning of the first switch of the first ladder.  I don't wish to have the spurs as separate blocks.  Considering that it is all one block, is this the correct way to wire my yard?  Are there any modifications I can make to the switches in the ladder to better transmit the juice?  I do intend to solder jumpers at the point hinges, but is there anything else I can do?  Thanks for any assistance on this.  Jim 

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