Thanks!
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
Well, here's one you cn actually buy:
https://precimodels.com/en/8-products/1-dcc-uncouplers
$20/pair, but you have to build it yourself
Here's some pictures of Dick Bronson's DIY one with muscle wire
http://www.rr-cirkits.com/actuator.html
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Do you have any links for those?
Not built in to the coupler box with no extra wires hanging out to pull on the trip pin. There are numerous options with pager motors or muscle wire, but thost tend to only work in freight cars where there is space inside, and typically there is some kind of actuating wire leading out to pull on the trip pin. Plus you still need a drive circuit or a decoder with high current functions.
Youch! I checked out the website and those are $40 a pop!
Surely there is a cheaper option...
My yard switchers only have front light, rear light, and cab roof flasher, so with a six function decoder this becomes VERY doable.And I think it would be ham dandy -- er, **** handy -- on a yard switcher.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
rrinker I went looking at the Kadee site for another topic because I forget off the top of my head the number for a coupler I wanted to suggest, and came across this link, since they are licensed by Kadee. https://www.smart-coupler.com/ I've seen plenty of DCC uncouplers before, but this one is different - the whole mechanism fits inside a standard #5-size box! --Randy
I went looking at the Kadee site for another topic because I forget off the top of my head the number for a coupler I wanted to suggest, and came across this link, since they are licensed by Kadee.
https://www.smart-coupler.com/
I've seen plenty of DCC uncouplers before, but this one is different - the whole mechanism fits inside a standard #5-size box!
Thanks Randy!
Signed up for the newletter, these look very interesting.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/269416/3054524.aspx#3054524
Made Mel's link clickable.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
tstage Thanks for the link, Randy. So, if I'm understanding it correctly, you can map the uncoupler (which is wired to your decoder) to one or two functions on your throttle, yes? Obviously, if your locomotive has front & rear headlights, you'd need at least a 4- or 6-function decoder for wiring the uncoupler. Tom
Thanks for the link, Randy. So, if I'm understanding it correctly, you can map the uncoupler (which is wired to your decoder) to one or two functions on your throttle, yes? Obviously, if your locomotive has front & rear headlights, you'd need at least a 4- or 6-function decoder for wiring the uncoupler.
Tom
One function if you don't mind the front and rear opening at the same time, or two if you want the two couplers independent.
Running out of functions seems to be less of a problem with modern 21 pin decoders and the motherboards. Then it also depends on what other stuff you have - for me, since my locos ONLY have a headlight and a rear light, I wouldn't need anything more than 4 functions.
These should also work better than the MTH ones. Whie limited to uncoupling from the loco (unless you want to put decoders in every car - and how would you address them all? Although I do plan to put function decoders in my cabees to light the interior and markers), the MTH ones don't couple up very good, you have to slam into the standing cars. Since these use actual Kadees, they should coupel easily.
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.