Looks like he posted Easter Sunday, maybe Kalmbach employees got Monday off, so by the time his moderated psot was approved, there had been a large amount of activity, pushing a new post well past the first page. Might even had been in the General section - in 2 days it could EASILY appear 2-3 pages deep. Then gets moved over here because it belongs in this section.
Frankly, I think this is a "why didn't someone think of this" flaw in this forum software. Date should change to the date the moderator released the post. Downside of having moderation where the only ones allowed to release posts work M-F, normal business hours only. Beats a ton of nasty spam over the weekends though.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
mbinsewiThis just showed up for me as well.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
This just showed up for me as well. A look at his profile shows no activity ?
If he has left, I don't blame him for not closing the door on the way out. Says he is a retired engineer, from the UP.
Mike.
My You Tube
I hope the OP didn't give up after 6 weeks of no response. If you are still here, initial posts are moderated, so responses will take a while to appear.
If there is no headlight lens or light pipe available, there is clear styrene rod, (google is your friend) chuck a piece up in the drill and get some sand paper and turn it down to the needed size. There are also 8mm leds, I don't know how big this hole is.
This post didn't even show up for me last night around 8 when it seems some replied.
I have 2 of the Stewart AS16s, but they both were the version with the tube. Actually, mine already had LEDs, but they were orange ones. I just soldered golden white ones in place of the stick ones and plugged a decoder in.
Since it's LEDs, you don't have to use brass tube, but brass tubing has much thinner walls than styrene tubing so the inside diameter is greater for a given outside diameter, making it more practical. This is what I would do if I had one of the older style ones. And get some clear to make lenses in the headlight opening, or try Microscale Crystal Clear (though the openign may be tooo big for that trick to work). My newer (but still Stewart branded - they aren't THAT new) came with clear lens inserts along with the cab glazing.
As I recall, the earliest Stewart AS-16s (with the Athearn drive) just had an open area at each end with a light bulb as part of the chassis assembly. I added a tube like Big Daddy mentions above. Later versions had a metal weight that fit in each end, and had a hole where the bulb for the headlight would go in. Not sure if those are still around, or are available as separate parts?
I can't believe no one had anything to say. Sometimes the new threads push the old threads down the list.
Welcome to the forum.
Is this a Bowser/Stewart engine? It took me a while to find an Ebay pic of the front of the engine, the Bowser site wasn't helpful
My Stewart F7 came with a 5mm hole and a plastic lens that fit in the hole. Because of the cab, I glued a piece of aluminum tubing to the back of the area surrounding the lens and pushed readed a 3mm led into the tubing.
In some engines I have glued leds into position with silicon caulk.
You didn't ask but assuming you are putting in a DCC decoder, some decoders require resistors and some don't on the led's.
Howdy! My first "rodeo" here.
Just saw a vid on how to install leds in most locomotives. I have a Baldwin as16 and the head light cavity is much larger than say on an EMD. Any suggestions?