Frogs

[C1Cal]

"install a DCC System" shows connecting the Frog green lead to a Frog Juicer.          "Laying and Wiring Track" shows ataching the green Frog lead to an under table switch motor. If you use a Juicer how do you wire the switch? I am just starting out in HO.

[owen w in california]

C1: If you are using a turnout motor, like a Tortoise, it has an integral electronic switch which changes the polarity at the Frog automatically, when you throw the turnout, so you connect one wire to the Frog (green in your description). In this circumstance, you DO NOT NEED a Frog juicer (it would be redundant). If you are NOT using a turnout motor (hand throwing turnouts) or are using a motor WITHOUT the integral electronic switch, then a Frogjuicer will change the polarity, if you connect it to the same green Frog wire. You don't need both.

[jjdamnit]

Hello all,

That only applies to Electro frogs. Insul frogs do not have a powered frog option.

Hope this helps.

[BigDaddy]

jjdamnit

Hello all,

That only applies to Electro frogs. Insul frogs do not have a powered frog option.

Hope this helps.

Neither do Atlas Snap Switches, but we don't know what we don't know.

Which is another way of telling the to the forum newbie, that you can't possibly give us too much information.

 

 

[rrinker]

 Juicers are only for DCC. You hook the frog wire to one of the Juicer outputs. You hook the Juicer to the DCC bus. Done. That simple.

                                     --Randy

 

 

[Dan Kellogg]

This is my first post.  I have appreciated owen's previous posts on the subject of powering Peco turnout frogs with Frog Juicers.  My question is this:  I'm using Peco Electrofrog Code 55 turnouts in N scale.  I want to drop a 22 gauge wire from the frog to the Frog Juicer (or Tortoise).  The N scale turnouts appear to be different from the HO scale turnouts in that there is no wire on the back of the turnout that can be pulled out to extend.  How are others making the connection between the N scale frog and the Frog Juicer (Tortoise)?  Thanks for all of your good advice.

[zstripe]

Dan,

You Do Not have to add a wire to the frog on a Peco code 55 Eectrofrog turnout....it is power routing from the points.......You do have to use insulated joiners on both divergent tracks after the frog. Take a look at this link for code 55 Peco Electrofrog turnouts for info about where to put the insulated joiners and if You want to make them more DCC friendly. Scroll down to Peco Code 55. You may just be able to use the insulated joiners:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm

Take Care! 

Frank

 

[rrinker]

 That's putting an awful lot of faith in the point to stock rail contact. Wiring for DCC recommends the same bond wires between closure and stock rails, and cutting the frog rails, as well as a frog feeder soldered to the bottom. The wire doesn't extend like the HO ones, but it's there, welded to various bits of the frog, and you cna solder to that.

                                          --Randy

 

[SouthPenn]

The Peco that I use are Electofrog. I use insulated rail joiners on the diverging rails. The Peco points are spring loaded to stay tight to the stock rails. As long as the rails and points are clean, they work fine.

The OP is new at this. Why take a chance trashing a brand new switch. Why buy more stuff than you need. You need to install rail joiners anyway, just use plastic instead of metal. It's a no-brainer.