I have an on/off toggle switch that when the toggle was thrown to the left, it worked the programming track...when thrown to the right, it turned the electricity on to run the power to the track and if I set the toggle to the middle, it turned off. I have peco turnout switches on other toggles but LED buss wire to the on/off toggle switch. I went to turn the toggle on and it was loose and fell off. I noticed under the layout that it looks like the housing came off of the toggle switch (wires are still attached to the housing and the other little silver end is still attached to the layout board. I'm wondering if I can put this back together. If I buy another toggle switch and look at the inside I might find there's suppose to be a spring, etc. (that maybe I lost) and would be able to use from the new one. Do you think this is possible to do?...I hate to re-wire another toggle (not good at it). Does any one have any idea what kind of toggle I have? The fellow that set up my layout is now deceased so can't ask him. I have DCC
You can tell what type of switch you need to replace it by looking at 2 things. First, how many wires connect to the back? Second, when it was working, did the switch lever mover just left and right, or was there a center position as well: click---click vs click---click---click. The combination will tell us if you ned a DPDT, SPDT, or other type of switch, and if it has a center off position.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
OK, what you have is a DPDT, center off switch. So get another of the same and transfer the wires one by one (don't disconnect all of them at once or else take some pictures and draw a diagram first). If you do that and put each wire on the new switch in the same place it came off the old switch, everything should be perfectly wired the way it was before.
As you mentioned above, sounds like you have a Double Pole Double Throw Center off switch,
(click---click---click). If you buy another one to look in side that one, your have the same thing that you have now, a switch in pieces. Solder wires on the new switch at the work bench then cut one wire at a time under the layout and match that wire to it's correct wire from the new switch. Do not forget to put the heat shrink tubing on the wire before you make the soldered wire to wire connection.
Then again you could get a switch with screw terminals and just fasted the wires in their correct locations.
On the back of the DPDT switch,
The two center posts connect to the programing/full power track.
The two end posts connect to the programing wires from your power unit.
The other two end posts connect to the full power wires from your power unit.
EDIT: Ok I started early but was slow to post but I'll keep it up here.
If you are not confident in your soldering skills, ask around among your friends. Lot's of people have dabbled in electronics in their younger years.
Don't ignore the old geezers. I have a friend in his 80's that still models and solders leds and another who is 72 who professionally builds custom electronics and solders hard to see components with a binocular microscope and rock steady hands.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Welcome to the forum. I would have never guessed someone with a handle GoCart would be a 73 yo woman.
I think we have a couple women here, but frankly I would be hard pressed to name them.
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Home improvement stores and some hardware stores often stock DPDT center off toggle switches (often with screw terminals if you don't want to solder). However, they typically will only have them in larger sizes (suitable for household level current). That might or might not be too large for your available mounting space, so if you're not sure it might be best to purchase in person so you can assess fit. But they will fulfill the need if they fit the space. Also--if you really don't want to solder--it might be possible to purchase a replacement switch with solder terminals but then, instead of soldering, use crimp-on wire connectors--you crimp the wire to one end of this small metal connector, and slide the other (flatter) end over the toggle switch's solder terminal (look for "female spade crimp terminal" on Amazon or Ebay to see what these are). Again, space and fit might be an issue, so if you're not sure about sizing it might be best to purchase in person so you can make sure everything will fit together. Big home improvement stores also often carry these crimp terminals, but maybe not quite as small as you might need--depends on the size of the replacement switch's terminals.
As others have mentioned, swap one wire at a time, old switch to new switch, in the same positions, and there shouldn't be any problems.
I've got my DCC programming track wired the same way. It sounds like you're using a simple DPDT toggle. These are so cheap that they are not worth trying to fix. Just buy a new one and tell yourself that yes, you can solder the wires on, and do it.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.