question for led bulb placement

[BigDaddy]

I have used the Testors version of Canopy Glue as well as clear silicone caulk.  Both are easily removed and both hold good enough.  Neither dry as quick as CA but I'm in not rush.

 

[RR_Mel]

gmpullman

I've had CA fog the headlight lens, or number boards at times. The vapor alone can fog clear styrene.

 

 

Ed your right, in thinking back I remember having some AC ding some clear Styrene.  About 7 or 8 years ago I switched from the hobby type AC to Harbor Freight Super Glue in the .10 ounce tubes and I’ve never had a problem with it.  I switched because of the small tubes not because it was any better, just easier to use in the tiny tube and when it dries up over time I’ve only lost less than .1 ounce not a half bottle of CA.

 

 https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-high-strength-super-glue-68345.html

 

They also have it in Gel form.

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[gmpullman]

I've had CA fog the headlight lens, or number boards at times. The vapor alone can fog clear styrene.

For my LED headlight lens and glass installations I use canopy cement.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/cars-and-trucks/pit-equipment/miscellaneous-15155--1/zap-formula-560-canopy-glue-paapt56

It dries clear and stays flexible. Testors has a canopy cement that is just a bit thinner consistency for those applications where needed.

Everyone has their own favorites, I suppose...

Good Luck, Ed

[RR_Mel]

It doesn’t really cut the LED or lens, it just forces the glue to break free.  Both can be reused.  It doesn’t work on flattop LEDs only round top.

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[tstage]

Thanks, Mel.  That's good to know.

Tom

[RR_Mel]

Tom

 

I’ve been very lucky and never had an LED headlight fail, but I have changed the LEDs.  A sharp pair of wire cutters will separate the LEDs from the lens without dinging the lens, flat edge toward the lens.

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[tstage]

With all due respect to Mel, I would NOT glue an LED directly to any lens or light pipe with CA.  If and when the LED burns out, it will make it much more difficult to remove it without breaking the lens.

Is the lens flat, or is it connected to a light pipe?  If the latter you can use 1/8" OD black heat shrink to make the connection between the two.  The heat shrink will also help concentrate the beam through the light pipe and less around the interior of the cab.

If the lens is flat I would recommend gluing a short (1/2" long) piece of 5/32" OD/1/8" ID styrene tubing to the lens.  This is what I used to add a rear headlight to a Walthers SW1 a few years ago:

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com/rear-headlight

The slightly drilled out tubing allows the LED to be press fit in the tubing and can be removed if and when needed.

Hope that helps...

Tom

[RR_Mel]

I’ve used CA or regular super glue for gluing my LEDs to all kinds of goodies for years without a single problem including headlight lenses and light pipes. 

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[Locojunkie]

Hi again everone,

I recently installed a new LED light on a locomotive. I need to mount it in the cab. I want to know if it is safe to glue the bulb to he headlight lenses using CA glue or is there another way to accomplish this task. Thanks for your help in advance.