BigDaddyan el cheapo meter will give you plenty of information
Yes. I bought a meter years ago for troubleshooting the electrical system on an old motorcycle, and have used it for many things since. Definitely worth having.
Jonas GrumbyI tested it and it does put out 18VDC.
When ever there is a question about power it is good that you can measure it. That seems to be an insurmountable hurdle for some and an el cheapo meter will give you plenty of information.
Used or new, you shouldn't have to troubleshoot an engine unless you bought it with that understanding.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
rrinkerYou can test by putting a 9V batter across the rails (disconnect the power pack first). 9V should make the loco move fairly quickly.
Thanks Randy. That's a good tip about the 9V battery.
I assumed that when the seller said it was DCC Ready he just meant that DCC could be installed.
In any case, I'm returning the locomotive because I can't get the rest of the rolling stock that is supposed to go with it, and I ordered a Kato power pack to take the guesswork out of the power pack situation and make it plug and play.
I'm surprised the opposite doesn't happen. An old HO rheostat pack cannot control a modern low current locomotive - it should take off like a rocket as soon as you crack the throttle.
1 amp is PLENTY of power, that new loco probably draws no more than 1/4 amp, if even that much.
You don't need a Kato power pack, you just need SOME more modern transistor power pack.
You can test by putting a 9V batter across the rails (disconnect the power pack first). 9V should make the loco move fairly quickly.
DCC Ready just means it is relatively easy to install a DCC decoder. It does not need DCC to run, and in fact most DCC systems won't be able to run it without a decoder.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
BigDaddyCurious problem. It's not a DCC loco is it?
This locomotive was advertised as "DCC Ready". Could that be why it's not moving? I'm not set up for DCC.
Thanks for the replies. It's a Tyco power pack with a rheostat, from a HO scale set. I tested it and it does put out 18VDC. It's good to know that the power supply is not the problem. It may be a bad locomotive.
What I've decided to do is return the locomotive and get a Kato power pack. One reason is to eliminate the guesswork about the power pack. Another reason is that the B unit and cars that are supposed to go with this locomotive are not available anywhere, which I didn't realize when I bought the locomotive.
Jonas,
When you say "power supply", do you mean power pack with rheostat to control speed? (I'll assume so since it came from a train set.) Did you turn the knob up all the way?
How many terminals are on the power pack - two or four? If four, you may have the wires attached to the AC side rather than the DC side. It needs to be attached to the DC side.
Power packs with train sets are notoriously inferior and it could be putting out must enough juice to power the lights but not enough to move the train. It might be worth you time and effort to purchase a good basic but solid power pack - e.g. MRC Railpower 1370. They can be had on eBay for $20-$25 and put out 18VA; more than enough for your Kato locomotive.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Curious problem. It's not a DCC loco is it?
That isn't a lot of amps but N scale doesn't use much. The Tyco may have a higher amp rating but the thing you need to understand about amps is the loco takes the amps it need. The power pack doesn't force it to take more than it needs.
Bits of flash could be in the gears. If so I would expect at least some engine noise. Maybe your just got a bad engine and there is a disconnected motor wire.
I asked on this forum and was told that I would be able to use my old Tyco power supply from an HO scale set (which had never been used) to power my Kato N scale locomotive on Unitrack. For my test I used the Unijoiner and a few feet of straight track.
I tried it today and the locomotive's lights came on but it didn't move. This is my first Kato locomotive and it's brand new.
So, now I have to figure out what I'm doing wrong.
According to the Kato web site, their power supply puts out 12V 1A. Does that sound correct? 1A seems awfully low but maybe it's ok for these small motors.
Thanks for any advice. I think I'm going to go ahead and spend the money on the Kato power supply just to make sure that the power supply is not the problem.