I would like to install ESU Lok Sound Select with Shay sound on my Bachmann Spectrum H0 80-ton three truck Shay (81905).
One oval speaker 16x25 mm I installed in oil tank, another - round 20mm in water tender. There is too little space for decoder in water tender. So I would like to deinstall original Bachmann electrical board and connect decoder wires without 8-pin interface and change bulbs to LEDs. It is good to have Bachmann electrical circuit (not enclosed with model).
I`ll be glad to have any help of installation practice.
Sincerely,
Valeriy
By all means take some pictures of what you are doing, because I need to do mine, which is a very early Bachmann version.
It sounds like a lot of speakers to me.
You do know about the Bachmann gear splitting issue don't you?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Ok, no problems. I`ll continue my experiments next weekend.
ESU sound with only one oval speaker is great! I hope one additional round speaker get Shay more sound!
I know about gear problems and bought NWSL Bachmann Shay regear kit for future reinstall. My Shay works well now.
Valeriy.
Valeriy I would like to install ESU Lok Sound Select with Shay sound on my Bachmann Spectrum H0 80-ton three truck Shay (81905). One oval speaker 16x25 mm I installed in oil tank, another - round 20mm in water tender. There is too little space for decoder in water tender. So I would like to deinstall original Bachmann electrical board and connect decoder wires without 8-pin interface and change bulbs to LEDs. It is good to have Bachmann electrical circuit (not enclosed with model). I`ll be glad to have any help of installation practice. Sincerely, Valeriy.
I made notes when I removed the factory board and installed a Loksound. I don't have access to my desktop at the moment but will post it shortly.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
There is a youtube video on changing out those gears. The guy makes reference to putting in LED's but I don't think he said anything more than it is tricky.
What size decoder are you going to use ? The LokSound Select for HO might be a tight fit for installing the decoder into the back truck. I have used SoundTraxx TSU 750's in the past but have moved to the Econami now. Also use a 11 X 15 sugar cube speaker and install into the coal bunk. You will be suprised at the volume with the SoundTraxx, not sure with the LokSound but it should be good too.
A regular Select may be too big, but the Select Micro makes the TSU-750 look giant.
Removing the factory board is the way to go. While a diagram would be useful, you can make one yourself by observing where the wires go before removing anything. There aren't that many - pickups from the right, pickups from the left, 2 to the motor, 2 to the headlight, and 2 to the backup light. Most will be obvious just from seeing where the wires run off to. The board should be labeled as well, although they may use cryptic markings. But something like M_ and M- would be the motor leads.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
All my Bachmann locos with PC boards had labels on the PC board.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Thank you Henry, I know this youtube video.
I bought LokSound Select 73415 30x15 mm and two speakers with sound chambers - 16x25 mm and round 20 mm.
There are two pictures of Bachmann board (Side A and side B). You may see the number of this board H819X-PCB01.
I`ll try to draw electrical circuit of this Bachmann item.
Pretty obvious looking at your pictures what goes where, follow the traces vs the 8 pin socket. Con2, the one with 2 pins, is the track pickup. Con1, the 4 pin one, the top 2 are the headlight, the bottom 2 are the motor.
The rear light is the red and green wires looped right back to the board, so the rear light would connect to the yellow and blue wires on the decoder.
This is my drawing, excuse me, I am a lawyer, not a painter.
So, wire a connects with decoder`s white wire,
wire b connects with decoder`s blue wire,
wire c connects with decoder`s orange wire,
wire d connects with decoder`s gray wire,
wire e connects with decoder`s red wire,
wire f connects with decoder`s black wire.
It is not easy to open smoke box door to change bulb to LED.
Who have successful experience?
Effectively correct but Pin 7, the blue common from the 8 pin plug, MUST have a trace over to Pin 1 or Pin 2 of Con 1, nnd whichever one that is would get the + side of the LED - the common is + on a decoder. You have pin 2 of conn1 connected to pin 6 of the 8 pin socket, which would be the white wire, that would be the - side of the LED.
Basically - your text is correct. If you connect the wires indicated to those decoder wires, you should be fine. The diagram is missing a couple of traces - you might have lost track of a line through a via (the little holes in the circuit board which carry the connection from one side to another).
It'll be worth the effort to put an LED in the headlight - if you put in an LED now, you'll never have to do it again. Bulbs burn out - and get warm. Running on DC it's nto such a big deal - you typically don;t run at full throttle all the time. DCC though, the bulb gets full power all the time it's on. Runs hotter, burns out faster.
I forgot that Shay has not only headlight and rear bulbs, but one more. This bulb installed into firebox (firebox flicker). Is it paralell wiring with headlight bulb?
No, that would go on another function wire on the decoder which you can then set up for the firebox flicker effect.
Hello!
It is not easy to reinstall bulbs to LEDs.
First of all I connected all 3 LEDs, one speaker and Shay`s motor to ESU decoder and tested all items. All worked well. I connected firebox LED to decoder`s AUX1 output (green wire + blue wire). I did not modified the lighting effects as it described in LokSound Manual now.
First of all I remoed all tracks. After it removed cylinder block (3 screws)
After it and with the help of my scalpel I opened the smoke box door. This door glued to the smoke box.
You see that it is impossible to remove bulb.
The next step is removing cab. I removed two screws (one - cab screw and another - boiler). This is the result
There is one more boiler screw. You may see it on this picture
After it I removed boiler
I cut headlight bulb wires and disassembled headlight
I used 0603 SMD LEDs and 1 KOms resistors and my home device for soldering. I glued one LED to inside side of headlight.
The next step was firebox LED installation.
It works well
Rear LED installation
It works not good -lights into tender!
Isolating lights inside tender
To be continued