So I was downstairs changing out some wheelsets and on a whim plugged in the aforementioned UT1.
It works. The flashing lights are gone.
I dial up a locomotive. This also works. The engine responds to all commands.
Hmmm.
Try another engine. Forwards, backwards, speed up, slow down and lights. All work fine.
What. The. Heck.
Take a train out on the main. Everything works just peachy. My heart beats a little faster. Did the train gods smile upon my little world?? I am a happy engineer!!!
Until I unplug to move to another UP5.
The train stops dead when I plug back in. Seems the memory is gone. Spin the knob a bit and train continues on its merry way.
I guess I can make this a dedicated yard throttle since there wouldn't be a need to unplug it.
Cool! I love happy endings!
I can't wait to see what happens next when I go back downstairs!
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
Ah, I see. Well, then I'd say the throttle is indeed broken.
Hi, Paul, and thanks for your response.
As an avid fan and Digitrax user since 1998, I am very well aware what the "chase lights" mean and their function.
This problem is a fast ,very random flashing of ALL the lights. No amount of knob turning, button pushing,reversing, or panic button has any effect.
I've had this particular throttle since day1. It's been a workhorse, been dropped by me and the grandkids, pulled out of the UP5 by an elbow or knee and just about anything else one could imagine. Nearly 20 years is a pretty good run I think.Kudos to the Digitrax team!!
Reading manuals, although for me a very dry read, is something I force myself to do with any product I buy. I keep the manuals handy so I can first trouble shoot a problem on my own. This one wasn't covered! LOL!!
Anyhoo, your response was appreciated.It could help someone else who has that very problem and is unaware of the purpose!
This is all explained in the UT1 manual. No, really. It is. Pages 10 and 11:http://www.digitrax.com/media/apps/products/throttles/ut1/documents/ut1manual.pdf
Basically, the throttle setting isn't matching the direction and/or speed of the loco. You must turn the knob in the direction of the scrolling lights until the knob matches the speed of the loco, and/or turn the direction toggle to match the direction of the loco.
If the lights are scrolling left to right, turn the knob clockwise (increase speed). If they're scrolling right to left, turn the knob counterclockwise (decrease speed). If the status LED between the address knobs is red, turn the direction toggle the opposite way it is now. If the status LED remains dark, the DCC address is under the control of another throttle. If the status LED is green, you're good to go.
Be default, the UT1 is set up this way. It's called "Safe Mode". It's done so that people don't have accidents. Imagine you're running a big train with a UT1. There's no battery and no wireless option for a UT1. It is tethered only. Every time you unplug it, it's dead. The system remembers what the train is doing and the throttle has mechanical imputs for control (pot. throttle and toggle). When you plug the throttle back in, it powers on. Now imagine you had accidently flipped the direction toggle while the UT1 was unplugged. What would happen? As soon as you touched the throttle or hit a function, the train would instantly reverse. This would be bad.
Same goes for switching around the yard. Say you're using a UT1 to creep a steam engine towards the turntable. While it's moving slow, you unplug and move to another UP5 socket. Along the way, you accidently turn the knob to high speed (brush it against your leg, the layout, etc.). When you plug it back in and adjust any control, the loco will instantly launch itself into the turntable pit. Ouch.
You can change the UT1 into "Quik Mode" by changing the internal programming of the thottle. See Page 8 of the above manual. Basically, while unplugged, you turn the address knobs to "01", hold down the "F0" button, and plug in the throttle. As soon as it powers up, release the F0 button. Now it's in "Quik Mode".
"Quik Mode" means the UT1 will acquire an address regardless of direction or speed.
TL;DR - The throttle is not broken. It is working as it was designed.
Yes, it is! I live near Sarona.
Is your avatar the "Omaha X"?
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
Thanks, Randy!
Yes, the system and all other throttles work just fine. The DT400, UT4, both UT2 and the remaining UT1. I'll leave it on the shelf. The new UT4's will be here Wednesday.
Thank you for your answer!! Kinda figured it was a no-repair! LOL!!
Thanks again!
Does the UT4 work? If noot, the problem is the command station (or the Loconet wiring), not the UT1.
UT1's are so long out of production, they are unrepairable. Parts are no longer available.
Try disconnecting all the Loconet cabling and plug directly into the front of your command station. Running address 00 throws all the voltage on railsync one way or the other and some UP panels have been known to blow the protection diodes. While you're there, also try an OpSw 39 reset (yes, a DB150 can be reset, not just the DCS100). Do you have any full throttles like a DT100, 30, or 400 series? You'll need that for the reset - or a computer connection and JMRI, or Loconet Checker.
I never was a fan of that idea of smacking the throttle to reseat the chip. There's no way you can smack it hard enough without breaking the plastic that would reach the typical insertion force for the main controller IC inside. Instead open it up and (this is a bit of an adventure, because the ship is on the other side) carefully remove the cover and, supporting the board from behind, press the chip down into the socket. While you're in there, look for any blow capacitors (the little round tank things). If there is ooze spreading out under any of them, or the top is popped up like a bad canof vegetable, that's really probably what's causing the issue. That sort of thing can actually be fixed, by removing the bad part and putting in a new one witht he identical value. The ooze needs to be cleaned off as well, since it will eat through the board traces and that is a much more difficult repair job. Unless you are comfortable doing this, or have a friend who is willing to help, I'd just as soon not bother, the UT4 is a whole lot more capable than the UT1.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Hi, all!
Yesterday I recieved my new (old stock) Atlas rs-1 and put it on the track to make sure it ran.
Dialed up "00" on my UT1 and ran it forward. Good! No problems.
Reversed direction and off it went! Awesome!
Unfortunately, as I glanced down at the UT1 ALL THE LIGHTS are flashing and I no longer have control!
I took the engine off the track, unplugged the throttle and smacked it gently to let it know I was the big boss. Plugged it back in and the same thing.
It won't aquire anything. It won't control anything. It just keeps flashing its stupid lights at me.
Would I be correct assuming it is toast? I already called my not-so-local HS and ordered 2 more UT4's. I have one UT4 and one more UT1 along with two UT2's.
Would it be worth the hassle to send it south?