Hello Everyone,
Quick update on the cracked gear situation, I decided to bite the bullet and ordered complete new trucks from Bachmann with the side connector plates. This should resolve the connection issues.
Thank you for your support and have a nice day.
Serge
The side without the wipers picks up power by riding on the axle (Athearns have bearings there that do the same, the bearing contacts the plate and the axle runs through the bearing, instead of the axle just riding on the plate). Unless the entire power transfer from the plate to the motor is via wires and the frame isn;t hot like Athearn, you can get away with one truck having the insulated wheels on one side and the opposite for the other truck, and just not connect the one wire. But if the frame is hot, having the insulated wheels opposite is a dead short, through the axles, to the plates, and through the chassis.
If you keep the insulated wheels all on the same side, you'd still have 8 wheel pickup - barring the issue I mentiooned, as to where the wiper side rubs the wheel vs where the insulation is.
The one I have, all I did was connect a TCS MC2 decoder and I've had no problems, still original gears and wheels. With the 8 wheel pickup intact, it ran over non-powered frogs just fine.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
If you're going to go with 4 wheel pickup instead of 8 wheel, you should try to fit a "keep alive" in the loco. Which I presume is near impossible. I did the same for a very roomy gas-electric, and it made all the difference.
The other option is to add an INSULATED pickup on the insulated wheels. The traditional approach is sort of a bent spring-wire thingy. Or a bent strip-of-metal thingy.
I see in the picture that the spur gears don't necessarily line up with each other. You want to maximize the engagement, I think, while you are playing with this little fella.
Ed
Hello Randy, I appreciate your help to help me out on this issue.
I took another picture of the gear arrangement so you can see the set up. The axles are metal, not the gears.
The insulated wheels are in opposite positions on both trucks.
At the top part of the picture the insulated wheels are on the left side.At the bottom part of the picture the insulated wheels are on the right side.
Why should the power plate (wipers) be on the insulated wheel side?
I don't think I should have active power plates on both sides of the trucks (8 wheel active pick up). So I thought I should have only one active power plate on each truck. For example one for the right rail on the top truck and one for the left rail on the bottom truck.
Any help or ideas are welcome
Thank you
That's why the original gears were plastic - they insulated the axle halves. I doubt the metal gears are the recommended replacement - the same thing would happen on ANY loco where the trucks were composed of metal side plates. They almost certainly need plastic gears, not metal.
Are yoou sure the insulated wheels are on the same side for ALL FOUR axles? They need to be on the side that has the wipers. Next problem - where is the insulation on those wheels? If it's at the hub, you are fine, but it if's at the outer edge, or at any rate, if it's further out then where the wiper rubs on the back of the wheel - there's your problem.
The reason I replaced the gears innitailly is because they were cracked.
The new replacement gears have one wheel on each gear axle that is insolated. The Bachmann trucks have 4 wheel picks up each, so each truck assembly has a right and left wheel pick up.
The pick up plate comes in contact with 2 wheels on the left side and 2 wheels on the right side. Even if I connect just one side of the contact plate there is still a short due to the metal axles.
I will enlarge the hole where the axle comes in contact with the plate and see what happens.
This is a big puzzle for me, I've installed a few decoders in Proto 2000 and Kato locos , I never had such an issue.
To be continued....
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thank you.
Hello Ed,
Thank you for you suggestion, it's surely something to think about.
I'm just drivin' through, here.
But I thought I'd suggest that PERHAPS NWSL had in mind that there wouldn't be 8 wheel pickup (anymore). If the insulated wheel stays full insulated, it would seem there would be no short through the axle. That means no wiper on the insulated side.
Of course, 8 wheel pickup is GOOD. So it might be better to go the route that's in evidence in this topic: set up a working 8 wheel pickup.
Hello Henry,
You're correct, I don't have a template with the finger making contact with the wheels.
I drilled the wheel opening a little bigger so the axle would not come in contact with the power template, but I also realized that no power would come to the wheels.
I drilled before thinking, what do you suggest I should to to remedy this situation?
You don't want any play in the sideplate that would contact the axle ever again. It might need a little dab of silicon caulk or ACC.
My axle is broken and is in front of the horizontal "finger" which contacts the wheel. If you don't have that finger, you won't be getting power to the sideplate
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Yes the old axles where plastic, that's why the loco ran fine before the new metal axle install.
You suggested: " In theory I could drill the hole wider so it wouldn't contact the axle, if I was using metal axles."
That's a great idea, I'll widen the holes on the sideplates where the metal axles come in contact and see what happens.
I'll post an update afterwards.
Edit You figured out pictures, good. It looks like a brass axle contacts the silver colored sideplates. That would be a short. I assume the original axle was plastic?
Edit 2 I have an older version which I just dug out to look at. My sideplate is black with a tab that rubs against the backside of the wheel. My center axle is plastic so there is no possibility of conduction thru the axle.
My side plate does not rest on the axle, there is a hole for the axle. In theory I could drill the hole wider so it wouldn't contact the axle, if I was using metal axles.
If there is an electrical path from wheel to sideplate, that does not involve the axle you could widen the hole, if it is not also the bearing for the axle. Some people have used the inside spring from a Kadee #5 coupler to contact the wheels.
Update:
I tested the Tsunami 2 decoder and it works just fine, I also tested the speaker and motor connections, no short was found.
Here are some photos of the complete wheel and truck assembly.
As you can see, the new metal axles come in contact on both sides of the truck power connectors, maybe that's what causing the short.
UPDATE: Before installing NorthWest Short Line replacement trucks,the loco ran just fine in DCC I noticed the the new wheel axles are metal and they come in contact with the power connectors, maybe that is the issue, solutions anyone?
Hello Henry, thank you, I will try the Kapton tape.
We can't see what you are seeing unless we have that particular loco. But if you think that is the problem, can you slip a piece of Kapton tape in there?
If you search the forum there are several threads for DCC installation on this loco. There does not seem to be a "gotcha" that jumps out at me to beware of.
Hello I installed a Soundtraxx TSU 1100 #885002in a Bachmann 44 ton switcher.
I noticed that the right and left truck connectors almost touch the frame and I think that might be the culprit causing a short.
I verified all my connections going to the decoder and all is OK.
I tested the loco with my Digitrax and a BEEP sound is emitted so that means there's a short caused by the loco.
I also tested the loco on a DC system and there's a No Go.
Any suggestions would be welcome.