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Flux

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Flux
Posted by starman on Friday, September 22, 2017 2:36 PM

I am wiring all track segments and switches to my bus lines.  I have been using liquid flux, but I am now out of flux and need to order more.  I have never used paste flux before.  I am interested in your opinion of which flux you like best, liquid or paste.  I have a lot of soldering to do!  Thanks,

Jack

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  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
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Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, September 22, 2017 4:29 PM

I’ve been soldering for 70 years and never used liquid always paste.  Toothpick as an applicator works great for the rails.
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
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Posted by gdelmoro on Friday, September 22, 2017 4:35 PM

I used liquid at one time until I knocked it over and fried 2 circuit breakers.  Paste for me!

Gary

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Posted by tstage on Friday, September 22, 2017 4:39 PM

Jack,

I've used both.  The paste is nice because its more "controllable" than liquid.  As Mel suggested, a tiny dab on the end of the toothpick is generally all you'll need to assure a good shiny solder joint.  I would still clean off the solder joint after soldering with either Flux-Off or 91% alcohol and a Q-tip.

Having said that, if you expose liquid flux to the air long enough it will partially solified into a "paste" or goo.  I used to use that trick all the time when I was an electronics tech.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by 7j43k on Friday, September 22, 2017 7:02 PM

I've been using liquid for about forever.  

I use a toothpick to apply it, the same as the paste users.

 

Ed

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Posted by selector on Friday, September 22, 2017 7:57 PM

Paste.  I first saw someone soldering while watching Tim Warris explaining how to make his style of turnouts.  He used paste, and so have I to date.  It stays put.  I also use a toothpick, and use a larger one to uncouple cars.  Ain't pointy wood thingies grand?

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Posted by tstage on Friday, September 22, 2017 8:50 PM

selector
Ain't pointy wood thingies grand?

No reason to get so technical, Crandell...Geeked

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by rrinker on Saturday, September 23, 2017 1:09 AM

 The flux I use has a third option - gel. I thought it might be useful, but I haven't used any in some 9 or 10 years of buying it. I always use the jar of paste. They actually recommend not buying the liquid unless you positively have a reason to use it - you can just add some de-ionized water to the gel or paste and make liquid if you need it. This flux is water soluable. 

                                --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by gregc on Saturday, September 23, 2017 5:37 AM

i never found a need to use flux for electrical soldering.   I use resin core solder.   When I touch the solder to the heated metal, the flux melts first and then the solder.   Of course the metal can't be dirty.   I solder feeders to track and NS track to track.

i use paste when i solder copper pipe which i clean with sandpaper until shinny.

greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading

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Posted by GraniteRailroader on Saturday, September 23, 2017 3:02 PM

The "Rosin" in "Rosin Core Solder" is the flux Wink

I prefer paste myself, both solder and flux. 

I rarely use liquid flux, unless Im simply tinning wires for through-hole PCBs. Dip them in, touch the iron to them and hit with a bit of silver solder. 

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Posted by rrinker on Saturday, September 23, 2017 10:24 PM

 I generally don't use extra flux for any electronic assembly. For surface mount components on a board it's essential. But for soldering rail, when unless you hit it with the 'wire' wheel (the nylon or whetever one - a regular steel wire wheel will damage the soft nickel silver, or clear the nickel plating right off wheels) in the dremel right before soldering, just won't be all that clean, I use the paste.

                           --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by norskitrainguy on Sunday, September 24, 2017 2:58 PM

I use a no clean flux pen.  works great! 

got it from digikey

Manufacturer

Chip Quik Inc.

Manufacturer Part Number

CQ4LF

Description FLUX - NO CLEAN PEN 0.34 OZ
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Posted by Track fiddler on Sunday, September 24, 2017 3:58 PM

I'm definitely no authority in advice soldering rail joints or feeders.

I left off 35 years ago and always melted the railroad ties.

I am very good at sweating copper plumbing pipe though.  I know the most important thing about getting a proper flow of solder and a quality solder joint is in the preparation, how clean you get the surfaces to be soldered before you start.

I think flux is kind of secondary to that.  I think any quality flux should do the trick.

Then again I'm no rail soldering authority figure.

I do believe what I said above is true and very important though.

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Posted by gdelmoro on Sunday, September 24, 2017 7:36 PM

tstage

Jack,

I've used both.  The paste is nice because its more "controllable" than liquid.  As Mel suggested, a tiny dab on the end of the toothpick is generally all you'll need to assure a good shiny solder joint.  I would still clean off the solder joint after soldering with either Flux-Off or 91% alcohol and a Q-tip.

Having said that, if you expose liquid flux to the air long enough it will partially solified into a "paste" or goo.  I used to use that trick all the time when I was an electronics tech.

Tom

 

Tom why do you clean off the joint? I haven't cleaned any Indifferent. If they sew more than a year old should I still clean them?

Gary

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Posted by GraniteRailroader on Sunday, September 24, 2017 7:41 PM

Cleaning the joint is habit for me - both before and after soldering. I like to remove any residue and remnants of the process. 

 

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Posted by Bayfield Transfer Railway on Tuesday, September 26, 2017 8:14 PM

A few years back somebody connected with the wiring procedures in the Redstone missile program wrote to MR about how to do better soldering.  He said you should almost never have to use extra flux, and should make sure the metal is clean instead.

 

This last stint of layout wiring, I used a triangular needle file to scrape the rail sides until they were shiny, and also lightly scraped the wire.  It works great, makes a fast joint, is secure, and not nearly as messy as using extra flux.

 

Disclaimer:  This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.

Michael Mornard

Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!

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