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Stewart F3 installing DCC

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  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Friday, September 8, 2017 12:22 PM

 There are catches inside on the sides that hold the shell on, the coupler doesn;t do it, but you have to take the coupler off on the front since it goes through a slot in the shell. Unlike teh Athearn BB F units, the catches are up inside the shell, not slots cut through it. HOSeeker should have the instruction sheets if yours are missing.

 There's room for a small speaker without cutting any metal, but if you shave down some at the rear you can fit a larger speaker for better sound.

                            --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Stewart F3 installing DCC
Posted by BigDaddy on Friday, September 8, 2017 9:35 AM

MAJOR EDIT

I have a friend that is going to mill a Proto 2000  weight for me this weekend to fit a speaker.  I might as well do my Stewart F3.  I would prefer to put a sugar cube speaker in the A unit, rather than wire it to the B unit, even though I know there would be room for a bigger speaker.

I see by the diagram on the Bowser site that the weight is held on by screws.  How is the motor attached?   Any other gotchas?

It looks like my speaker will fit right on the rear end of the weight without any milling. Big Smile

This loco has lived in it's box for the last 20 years.  The body shell does not seem to be attached except by the front coupler, which is currently removed.  I can't see any missing or broken tabs that would hold it on.  Is that the way it is supposed to be?

 

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

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