Hello All,
This is the first time i am installing DCC in a locomotive that was insulated already from the frame to the motor. I am using a TCS decoder and following their excellent guide. And i had one question. Does the motor need to be resecured to the frame? The 4 screws were taken out and not replaced to keep isolation but does it need to be glued into place or will it work fine just reattached?
Thanks for the asnwers
https://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Athearn/GP38-2/Athearn_GP38-2.html
It should be secured with screws so it doesn't move and can be removed at a later date.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
tstageIt should be secured with screws so it doesn't move and can be removed at a later date.
Does he need to use nylon screws?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddy tstage It should be secured with screws so it doesn't move and can be removed at a later date. Does he need to use nylon screws?
tstage It should be secured with screws so it doesn't move and can be removed at a later date.
No. As long as the lower motor brush contact is isolated the motor can be secured with the supplied screws.
Joe
So instead of putting electrical tape on the frame could i then just put electrical tape all along the bottom copper tab of the motor?
Do not use electrical tape. Use Kapton tape. DCC suppliers sell it also. Thin and tough.
Electrical is thicker and can ooze.
I had to use Kapton in an install along with a couple nylon screws. A different HO diesel. The motor frame halves were connected dirrectly to the brushes.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
SpartanCook So instead of putting electrical tape on the frame could i then just put electrical tape all along the bottom copper tab of the motor?
I agree that you should use kapton tape. I used to use electrical tape as well as some other "lab grade" tape and found that they were inferior to kapton. Rather than just insulating the copper strip I would insulate the entire motor cavity just to be sure that there is no chance that the strip could contact the frame. A little extra but it will prevent the release of the magic smoke.
Based on some replies this sounds like an AThearn loco. The trickw ith them is two swap the top and bottom clips on the motor - the top clip does not have the tabs that contact the strip down the middel of the frame. Or you cna just cut the tabs off the bottom clip and leave it as-is. Just be careful since those clips hold the brushes in (don't lose the springs!) and also are all the hold the motor together.
Then put a layer of Kapton tape int he bottoom. Do not use electrical tape, it will ooze adhesive over time and make a huge mess, plus it's relatively thick. The motor frame is not connected toot he brushes, so the screws should be fine. You can double check by testing continuity between the point ont he motor where the screws go and either of the two brushes.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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