Thanks Tom, I've downloaded the manual and will start to decipher it this WE.
Gary
Gary,
Despite being a NYC modeler and fan...Nice looking switcher!
A few comments...
Wishing you many happy days ahead switching with your newest acquisition, Gary. I hope you are happy with your choice...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
The loco arrived today. NICELY detailed!
Haven't read directions yet but it's Very LOUD. Excelent motor control, crawls through frogs at speed step 1. Need to configure it. This is my 1st QSI decoder so time to read. What is the extra wheel and parts for? I see the curtains but there is a wheel and shaft.
Excellent! I think you'll be very pleased with the purchase.
Purchased it!
Should be here by next weekend.
If "GOT IT!" means you snagged it then congratulations. Some folks didn't like the QSI sound decoders but I never had a problem with the few that I have and liked the sound and - especially - the motor-control.
If you did purchase it keep us posted how you like it. If you didn't purchase it - keep looking, as one is bound to show up that will meet your needs.
GOT IT !
If it's in a Life Like box, no Walthers anywhere, it will ONLY be QSI. Life Like never used anything else in their sound versions. Only since Walthers did they switch to Tsunami.
Most of the other ones that showed up, at least on the first page, were DC ones. I didn't go through many more. That one is now sold but there are plenty more listed.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
He responded "High quantum QSI Sound"!
He says "Factory so whatever Life Like uses".
How can I tell?
tstage rrinker http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heritage-Proto-2000-PRR-0-6-0-w-factory-DCC-Sound-NIB-Ho-Scale-/132251500166?hash=item1ecacdbe86:g:ZhwAAOSwi8VZQtf- Is that one with the QSI decoder or the Tsunami? I'd rather have the QSI version, or a DC version and install my own sound. Tom
rrinker http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heritage-Proto-2000-PRR-0-6-0-w-factory-DCC-Sound-NIB-Ho-Scale-/132251500166?hash=item1ecacdbe86:g:ZhwAAOSwi8VZQtf-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heritage-Proto-2000-PRR-0-6-0-w-factory-DCC-Sound-NIB-Ho-Scale-/132251500166?hash=item1ecacdbe86:g:ZhwAAOSwi8VZQtf-
Is that one with the QSI decoder or the Tsunami? I'd rather have the QSI version, or a DC version and install my own sound.
Guess I'll call the seller and ask first.
Thanks Randy, that's what I needed to know.
I just put in"
proto 2000 0-6-0
and the first three are non-sound, 4th one is sound.
Doesn't matter Walthers or Life Like if it's Proto 2000.
Thought I wanted Walthers Proto? There's a lot of Lifelike and Heritage. I don't see any Walthers Proto 2000 DCC & Sound - Could be me, let me try again.
There's a ton listed on ebay, both the 0-6-0 and the 0-8-0.
Just search Proto 2000 0-6-0 (or 0-8-0) (exactly that in the search box)
Glad that's gone.
Now, If I could only find a Wlathers Proto 2000
gdelmoro The Vendor took the Mantua back no problem. Now I'm looking for a Proto 2000 DCC & Sound. So Walthers, Life Like and Herratage Proto 2000 are all the same? They are only available on eBay from what I can find and I want to make sure I get the correct item.
The Vendor took the Mantua back no problem. Now I'm looking for a Proto 2000 DCC & Sound.
So Walthers, Life Like and Herratage Proto 2000 are all the same? They are only available on eBay from what I can find and I want to make sure I get the correct item.
Not exactly. Life Like Proto 2000 is the full name, if it's not Proto 2000 you don't really want plain Life Like, those are train set 'quality'. The Proto 2000 steam locos used the Heritage name - since most Proto 2000 locos are diesels. Under Walthers, they usually just called them Proto - so Walthers Proto is what you are looking for.
7j43k A problem with the original TANK 0-6-0 (hence 0-6-0T) from Mantua was that it only picked up on the front two drivers on the left side. They used a spring-loaded assembly mounted between the two drivers. The rear left driver did not pick up. It appears they kept that system. With the one I have, it has a lot of stalling problems. It really needs pickup to extend to the last driver. So, it's lived in a box for many years. Well, it also needs "keep-alive", really (except that, as it is, it's a DC loco). Which would likely get you out of adding that last driver pickup. Ed
A problem with the original TANK 0-6-0 (hence 0-6-0T) from Mantua was that it only picked up on the front two drivers on the left side. They used a spring-loaded assembly mounted between the two drivers. The rear left driver did not pick up. It appears they kept that system.
With the one I have, it has a lot of stalling problems. It really needs pickup to extend to the last driver. So, it's lived in a box for many years.
Well, it also needs "keep-alive", really (except that, as it is, it's a DC loco). Which would likely get you out of adding that last driver pickup.
Ed
That's still how they are. The only difference I think with the newer ones (and have for several years) is that the shell is plastic, unlike the 50's version that was metal. ANd at some point, early 90's I think, the open frame motor got replaced with a can motor.
There's not a whole lot that can bind, since there's no actual valve motion. The crosshead guides in mine fit very loosely and I'd suspect if there is trouble it would be there, if they shift it could bind the piston rod. Or maybe if they jam and DON'T shift, given the overall high amount of slop in the rods.
I also have the misfortune of owning a Mantua 0-6-0 with DCC and sound. Adjusting CV 2 helped some with the jerky low speed performance, but I found that the mechanism itself is part of the problem on my locomotive. Going forwards, it's relatively smooth, but when reversing something binds once per wheel revolution and the jerking comes back. I've ruled out side-rod issues.
I used brass wire to rework the pickups on the model, which would have helped the problems with pickup, if the wheels were actually all in the same plane. After reworking the pickups, I set the model on a pane of glass and saw that 3 wheels weren't touching the glass. The bent brass bearing plate in the frame is not level, and so the axles aren't properly aligned.
It now sits in a box. Maybe someday I'll see if I can rebuild it into a half-decent model of a B8a - with a completely reworked mechanism and frame.
I'd suggest that you use brass wire to add 6-wheel pickup, adjust CV 2, and add Keep Alive. That should provide reasonable performance without having to do too much work on the model.
Modeling the Pennsy and loving it!
rrinker Doughless In fairness to Mantua and MRC, I don't think any manufacturer of a tenderless 0-6-0 or decoder will have consistent success over unpowered frogs unless it has keep-alive technology, which is a very new feature relative to the age of DCC and found in very few factory equipped DCC locos, if any. I think that's a bit of a cop out though. Back in the day I had an American FLyer HO 4 wheel industrial switcher. Most of the turnouts were Atlas, non-powered plastic frogs - and that loco would creep around just fine. Also had an old Tyco 0-6-0, when it was made of all metal. That one ran fine too, even at slower speeds. Being Snap-Track style turnouts, the frog was fairly small. Move up to the Custom Line turnouts with true numbered frogs and th efrog gets bigger, so more dead area for the small locos to get past. But the real solution there is to power the frogs. The smallest thing I have currently is a Bachmann 44 tonner and that made it over my previous layout's #4's without actually having to power the frogs. If it's a newer versioon of the 0-6-0 that has a can motor like mine - it's all in the decoder. I haven't been able to test mine on rails yet, but hooked to my pure DC lab supply it starts and runs slowly and smoothly. Seller said it did not run, well, it has a Digitrax decoder installed in it, but it ran on DC for me just fine, so analog is not turned off in the decoder. It may need some help over less than perfect track because pickup oon the fireman's side is just the front driver and the center blind driver. With less than perfect track, that blind driver won;t even be touching the railhead, so it will probbaly drop power if the left hand side crosses a frog. Go the other way when the left side stays on a stock rail and it's probably OK. A keep alive of some sort will fix it. A better decoder will run smoother at low speed. --Randy
Doughless In fairness to Mantua and MRC, I don't think any manufacturer of a tenderless 0-6-0 or decoder will have consistent success over unpowered frogs unless it has keep-alive technology, which is a very new feature relative to the age of DCC and found in very few factory equipped DCC locos, if any.
In fairness to Mantua and MRC, I don't think any manufacturer of a tenderless 0-6-0 or decoder will have consistent success over unpowered frogs unless it has keep-alive technology, which is a very new feature relative to the age of DCC and found in very few factory equipped DCC locos, if any.
I think that's a bit of a cop out though. Back in the day I had an American FLyer HO 4 wheel industrial switcher. Most of the turnouts were Atlas, non-powered plastic frogs - and that loco would creep around just fine. Also had an old Tyco 0-6-0, when it was made of all metal. That one ran fine too, even at slower speeds.
Being Snap-Track style turnouts, the frog was fairly small. Move up to the Custom Line turnouts with true numbered frogs and th efrog gets bigger, so more dead area for the small locos to get past. But the real solution there is to power the frogs. The smallest thing I have currently is a Bachmann 44 tonner and that made it over my previous layout's #4's without actually having to power the frogs.
If it's a newer versioon of the 0-6-0 that has a can motor like mine - it's all in the decoder. I haven't been able to test mine on rails yet, but hooked to my pure DC lab supply it starts and runs slowly and smoothly. Seller said it did not run, well, it has a Digitrax decoder installed in it, but it ran on DC for me just fine, so analog is not turned off in the decoder. It may need some help over less than perfect track because pickup oon the fireman's side is just the front driver and the center blind driver. With less than perfect track, that blind driver won;t even be touching the railhead, so it will probbaly drop power if the left hand side crosses a frog. Go the other way when the left side stays on a stock rail and it's probably OK. A keep alive of some sort will fix it. A better decoder will run smoother at low speed.
Agreed. I was mistakenly thinking of DCC/Onboard sound locomotive decoders which are more sensitive to electrical pickup issues than regular decoders. A short wheelbase loco equipped with a silent decoder should have few problems over unpowered frogs similar to a DC loco, unless the electrical pickup system is of a less expensive design than some of the more expensive locomotives. That would be the difference between the Mantua and Proto locomotives.
- Douglas
Proto 2000 was Life-Like's high-end / more realistic locomotive line, starting around 1988-90. Before that, most Life-Like products were 'toy train set' grade. Proto 1000 came later, and was sort of in-between - less detailed but good running engines at a lower price.
Life-Like (or at least it's model train line) was purchased by Walthers, who have continued to make improved versions of many old Life-Like engines in their "Walthers Proto" line.
The Mantua line has similarly had several owners since the original company stopped making trains around 2000. I don't know about the more recent incarnations, but the original Mantua / Tyco steam engines normally picked up power from one rail from the engine's drivers, and connected to the other rail by the tender trucks. Because of this, going over crossings or through switches could be a problem. Changing the decoder as suggested to one with 'keep alive' technology is well worth the investment, and can make an astounding difference in how the engine performs.
AND - I'm finding Heratage Proto 2000 - aso the same?
Essentially, yes. Life Like (LL) first released the Proto 2000 line then Walthers bought the tooling some years later and put the line under their name.
The 0-6-0s were released after the LL 0-8-0s, which run very well; smooth and slow, as a switcher should. Either version should work just fine for you.
I see Life Like Proto 2000 0-6-0's on EBay are they the same as Walthers ? Two Proto different 2000 products?
Hmmm, If it was never designed to go over a frog, I should have asked BEFORE I purchased it. Guess I'll talk to the vendor and see if he will take it back. If not the TCS it is.