Thanks to both you guys, this is exactly what I love about this forum. I will try this.
Chris
That's some interesting stuff. Migth have to try some. I've never had a problem using ordinary 63/37 though.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I started soldering around 1954 with 60 40 and rosin core solder building Heatkit projects.
Moved up through the ranks like many until solid state PC board projects.
Maybe fifteen years ago I switched to Cardis quad eutectic and never looked back. Excellent qualities on PC boards.
I remember when I was soldering PC board projects where terminals were close ot each other, little solder balls could form between leads. It might have been something I was doing but with quad eutectic, that does not happen anymore.
Amazon carries it.
Search it out. I rather not post the Cardas link here.
I still use a Weller WLC100 soldering station.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
After reading this, maybe this is why so many people have problems getting a good solder joint. 60/40 solder? Why would you use that on anything but a physically solid non-movable joint? Larry even mentions the advantage of 63/37 - it's eutectic, meaning is goes directly from melted to frozen withoout an intermediate stage. Movement befoore the solder freezes is the primary cause of a 'cold' joint where contact can be poor even though it looks ok at casual inspection. Since 60/40 has a short in-between phase, it's easier for this to happen.
It used to be very obvious - with leaded solder, either 60/40 or 63/37, if the joint is good, it tends to be very shiny. A dull looking solder fillet indicates a cold joint. With lead-free solders, they ALL tend to look dull.
The kicker is where he says that 60/40 is the most common solder in model railroading. Is it truly, even today? If all you've ever used is 60/40, try some 63/37. I think you'll like it. 60/40 is fine for plumbing - you heat up the pipe with your torch, flow on the solder, and let it cool. It doesn't get moved because, who's going to touch the pipe right after you took the torch of fit? And the fittings generally go together relatively snuggly. But hooking up some small wires, where even a breeze can cause movement, not to mention being less than 100% steady with the hand holding the wire in place - 63/37 will make a big difference in ease of soldering.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it..