I have an Athearn Genesis PRR GP9 DCC/Sound ATHG62913. When enabling the Automatic sound functions (CV198=15), I get three toots when going forward (PRR GP9 runs long hood as the front). I switched the CV29 value from 6 to 7 and it reversed the direction setting, but not the toots. I sent this question to Athearn and they referred it to Soundtraxx and their solution was to switch the wires on the motor. Does anyone know of another solution via programming. I would like to avoid taking apart and soldering a new loco, if possible. Also, I have a Digitrax DCS100 and DT402D throttle.
There's nothing to solder, the wires are held on with little palstic caps. It works better if the wires ARE soldered, but it's not a requirement. That's going to be the only way to fix this without a whole lot of function remapping via CV programming.
Drive me nuts, the P2K locos are done this way too, they even have the D labeled on the proper end of the loco, but they are all wires short hood forward. The MAJORITY (but not all) first gen locos ran long hood forward as delivered. It was only later they got changed over, if not traded in on second gen units, so I don't get why none of these manufacturers set them up so that MOST would match the prototype, rather than most NOT matching.
That's another reason why, when installing my own decoders, I bypass the factory board. That way I know it's hooked up the right way.
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I took the shell off and switched the wires to the motor and everything works great as far as direction and toots! Now I just need to figure out the CV changes needed to get the front and rear lights in sync. The "F" marking on my GP9 is for running long hood in front as it should be, but it was wired for short hood in front, very interesting. These little details drive me nuts too. I am relatively new to DCC and this is my first Athearn/Genesis loco. Other than this wiring fiasco, it seems like a very nice unit. Thank you very much for you help Randy.
You could move those 2 wires also. The front headlight is the white wire, and the rear light is the yellow wire. Just switch them on the board and you should be good to go.
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