Hi folks. I know I'm diving into the deep end of an obscure pool here, but that's par for the course for me. I'm just starting in MRR but I'm embarking on modeling the NYC subway's #7 Flushing line circa mid 1980s. I've designed an HO scale shell for the NYCTA R36 World's Fair that I've sent off to Shapeways for printing, and have ordered a NWSL Stanton Drive truck to run it. I know it'd be nice to get it DCC compatible. I'm reasonably competent with soldering/electronics but in researching decoders I'm swamped by all the modules designed to fit pre-existing locos. What can I look for in the way of a "generic" board(s) to add to my model? Thanks!
This is one of those times where you're just going to have to do your research.
Most (all?) decoder manufacturers make decoders with a harness designed to be hard-wired, but of course they come with various sizes, number of functions, amp ratings, etc.
So start with your favorite manufacturer and scan their offerings to see if they have one that fits your needs and your model. If they don't, head over to your second-favorite brand's Web site and look there.
Repeat as necessary until you find what you need.
Gamp,
I would steer you in the direction of TCS if you are wanting a motor-only decoder (vs. sound). The motor-control is fanastic and they make decoders in a number of sizes.
I have a TCS 4-function (M4T) decoder in a Bowser PCC trolley. It has a delayed braking feature where the brake lights come on automatically when decelerating and go out after you stop or accelerate. A VERY cool feature. However, I don't know if that is how the NYC operated their subway cars.
The M4T is also small-ish and measures only .567 x .359 x .135". That should allow you to tuck it away better than some of the larger decoders.
Hope that helps...
Tom
[Edit: IIRC, TCS may have begun including the braking feature in their M4 decoders as a standard. It's worth emailing them to verify that - i.e. if that's an important feature to you.]
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Thanks for the help. TCS looks promising. I figure appropriate sound is wishful thinking but flexible motor and lighting control would be sweet. I'm way too green to know much about the braking behavior of the prototype, but I figure I can modify that as I learn more.
Bob
That sounds like a good use for 3D printing.
I also model subways. I've got 2 of the P2K sets from when Walthers used to make them. I added decoders to mine. I used very basic old Digitax DH-123 decoders, no sound. They do the job for me.
I occasionally see these sets at train shows and even now and then at shops. They're all the same model with different paint jobs, but they are fine for me. Even though you won't find them at Walthers, they are sometimes available if you look hard enough, or if you're lucky.
Keep us posted on your progress.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasley, I've lurked for a week or so and seen some photos of yours and the LION's layouts and am definitely inspired. I don't know if this image will link or not (it's showing up in the editor with a broken icon. Maybe it's because I'm still in the each-post-must-be-approved stage). But if it does here's what went off to Shapeways the other day:
Either way you look at it, you have to solder something. If you install a generic 'board' to plug a decoder into, you still have to attach the wires to the pickups and motor and lights, and then plug in a decoder. Skip the middle man, and connect right to the decoder. It's really no different, and no more/less work.
The Stanton drive modules make it easy - they have 4 wires with the proper color code for the track pickups and motor terminals. No need to worry about isolating the motor or any of that. Outside of a commercial power chassis that already has a socket for the decoder, the way the Stanton drive units come is about the easiest to hook up to a decoder.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
TheGampI don't know if this image will link or not (it's showing up in the editor with a broken icon.
No image. You really have to follow the instructions in the sticky in the General Forum. AFAIK there is no way to get a Google photo to appear in this forum.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I clicked on the link, then clicked on the photo to open it in its own window. The, I was able to right-click that window and choose "Copy Image Location" and put it into the box.
I think this will come out very well.
You can get end gates from NJ International if they still make them, along with other subway details like stairways. Welcome to the hobby and our strange little underground corner of it.
TheGamp MisterBeasley, I've lurked for a week or so and seen some photos of yours and the LION's layouts and am definitely inspired. I don't know if this image will link or not (it's showing up in the editor with a broken icon. Maybe it's because I'm still in the each-post-must-be-approved stage). But if it does here's what went off to Shapeways the other day:
Photo posting instructions.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/249194.aspx
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Many thanks, all. I promise (to try) not to make that mistake again!
-Bob
Hello all,
On my pike I use many different DCC decoders depending on the application.
For extremely simple applications I have had good luck with Bachmann two-function decoders. They are cheap and reliable but don't support many of the "higher" CV functions.
For locos that I need more CV functions I like the Digitrax DH126P. A simple two-function decoder with lots of CV options.
I have had great luck with the TCS KAM4[LED]. This is a four-function decoder with built in motor capacitors (Keep Alive™) and supports LEDs without the need for resistors.
The first two decoders have an 8-pin NMRA compliant plug. The last one is bare wires for soldered application.
For soldered applications I simply cut off the 8-pin NMRA plug on the first two.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"