My still in planning new layoout will be effectively a large dogbone, the loop on one end my lower level staging, and then the shank traversing the lower deck, a helix, then the upper deck and the other loop being stacked over the lower one as the opposite end staging. Obviously this means reversing loops as soon as I put so much as one crossover in the shank. One way to wire reverse loops in that configuration is to use the loops themselves - well, this also incorporates my staging which could mean a lot of locos under one reverser. No more.
Digitrax just annoucned new boosters (and true boosters - not booster and limited feature command station like the current DB150), and one of them is a dual unit, which can take up to 16 amps input and has 2 track outputs. Each can be 3, 5, or 8 amps (depending on the input supply), and each can be normal or an autoreverse. The current and the reverser settings are simple toggle switches on the front. So one of the dual units, both set to autoreverse, each powering one of the loops/staging yards, and I'm good to go. The other new one is a single output booster, also with 3/5/8 amp capacity. Both new boosters have 3 Loconet jacks instead of the old 2, which may make it easier to run the network without resorting to phone splitters which may not be wired correctly.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
And an Opto Isolated version. Makes it easy to use with other brand systems.
Oh yes and since they are JUST booster the new DB210 single booster is cheaper than the DB150. And the DB220 is only $20 more than a DB200 but it's TWO of them in one.
Power supply could be an issue. In order to get full output, all the new boosters and command stations say the input DC voltage should not exceed 3V over the output voltage. The PS2012 in the HO setting says 18V, too high, at 15 amps, and the N scale setting is 12V, too low for the HO output on the boosters. Although truthfully, I see no reason why I need more than 5 amps in each of my staging areas. The too high voltage on the PS2012 makes it not practical though.
However, Jameco has a MeanWell (which despite the cheesy sounding name, makes very good quality power supplies) 15V 16A power supply for a whole $51. Perfect. It's one of those large industrial brick sort of things, so you have to attach your own AC line cord.
There's also some new wiring instructions. When using multiple power supplies for multiple boosters, they now show hooking the power supply negative line not to the - input, but to the ground terminal on each booster. The diagram even shows doing this with a DB150 and DCS100, which was never shown in any of those manuals.
Not a deal breaker for me by any means, generally I would not have two boosters sharing a power supply anyway, because mine will be distributed along the layout, not centralized. The only place it makes sense really is the staging loops since they will be right over one another and need reversing anyway. The rest will be distributes as needed to keep bus runs reasonable and/or to address power demand - for example I see the main yard and engine service area being its own booster, with multiple breaker zones. The resto of the lower leve from the staging to there will almost certainly need no more than one booster, however even locating it dead in the middle, the bus runs may be pushing it in length, even for #12 wire. I may be able to cheat by cutting across the base of the penninsula, assuming I keep to the general plan I have currently laid out. That would keep any spot from a centrally located booster no more than 25 feet away.
rrinker However, Jameco has a MeanWell (which despite the cheesy sounding name, makes very good quality power supplies) 15V 16A power supply for a whole $51. Perfect. It's one of those large industrial brick sort of things, so you have to attach your own AC line cord. --Randy
I use one of those Meanwell supplies for my DS64's. Wish I had known about them 10 or 15 years ago...
Anyway, besides attaching your own line cord (and fusing them properly), you need to put them in a proper enclosure. That's the way they're intended to be used. Otherwise, those line cord connections are exposed and are a potential fire and/or shock hazard. I have mine in a ventilated metal project box Radio Shack used to sell.