Rich, for picking up track current i removed the press fit truck side frames, then soldered wires to the steel plate located on each side of the truck, the plate is what the axle / bushing fits into. Attach the wire high enough so the side frames fit back in place. I done this for each truck. Very simple. The P2K should be the same. This eliminates depending on the frame for one side of the track current and adds reliability. The Athearn dummy B unit had the same trucks as the powered A unit therefore it had the steel plates although no gears. If your P2K has no steel in the truck I would look for a set of trucks from a old powered unit.
With the Keep Alive I am not so sure 8 wheel pick up is necessary but why not.
Congratulations on a successful project. I have wanted to add sound to my Proto 2000 dummy PB unit. The idea of powering the dummy B unit is a good one, but my problem is that the truck and wheel assemblies on the Proto 2000 PB unit are not set up for power, so this is an added complication.
Rich
Alton Junction
Just a follow up. This project is complete, and it worked out great.
Here is what I done:
WOW sound decoder installed. I installed the decoder and keep alive in the dummy B unit. I ran wires to A Unit for headlights, front speaker, motor wires and track current. I also used the B unit for track current as suggested here. The wires between the units I discuised as MU cables. I also put a speaker in the B unit and wired the two 4 ohm speakers in series. When programing the WOW decoder has an option to have the sound of dual prime movers.
Very pleased with the results.
Again I appreciate the prompt replies. Mark R I had wondered about the sound unit in the dummy not having a motor load.
The motherboard is an option I had not considered. Thanks.
Personal opinion ? .... you can get older powered blue box Athearn engines for dirt cheap. Use the motor, trucks and drive gear in your B unit so both engines are powered, then install a sound decoder in each. Still PLENTY of room for a decoder and speaker.
Most sound decoders today rely on feedback from the motor for the engine sounds to react to throttle input properly. Without an actual motor load, the decoder is just "guessing" how to respond to throttle position - especially the newer Wow Sound and Loksound decoders.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
If you want to swap the same decodr around, use one of the WOW motherboards and a 21 pin WOW decoder, then all the loco connections connect to the motherboard and there is a single plug connecting the decoder to the loco. Even that's not meant for continuous plugging and unplugging and will eventually work loose.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I would say it's better to install things and leave them there. The details on engines are delicate, and the less handling they get, the better. Taking apart engines on a regular basis is not going to be the best way to preserve their good looks. Also, I've found that disturbing the electronics inside an engine will sometimes lead to broken wires, etc., and it's better avoided.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I have being giving this project more thought, Wow Diesel decoders are in stock at my LHS, just got to get there.
The Santa Fe locos in mind for this project frankly are not run too much on my home layout but would get run at the club layout from time to time. The whole train is a great looking set up.
I was thinking about wiring the locos as you all suggest and then adding a male / Female plug arrangement so the decoder can be removed and added to another A B locomotive consist that would be run more frequently. I could have the speakers permanmently installed in all locos with plugs to allow for easy swapping in and out of decoders. Shells on F units are easy enough to remove so that should not be an issue.
$200 worth of decoders would be easier to get my head around if my thinking is feesable. Santa Fe and Pennsy locos will not get run together. Thoughts?
I've done that with several diesel consists, since I usually keep loco consists together. Really improves power pickup, even on dirty track. I always run at least two units, since I got tired of crawling under the layout to push stalled locos, which always seemed to stall at the farthest place on the layout.
I appreciate the comments and suggestions, the suggestion to pick up power from B units trucks makes good sense. MB I too am running the Lenz 100.
I will let you all know how this goes. Thanks.
If the loco has a Tsunami, below is a link on how to make it sound like two prime movers. Scroll down a ways.
http://mrdccu.com/curriculum/soundtraxx/tsunami.html
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I have an A-B set of Stewart FTs, with the B being a dummy. I installed the decoder in the A unit, and ran two wires back through the window opening in the doors between the A and B units, and installed a 1" speaker in the B unit. Adding diaphragms between units hides the wires. Works fine.
A few years ago I picked up a BLI F3 which is in lash up mode. Decoder in the A unit which powers the motor in the A and B units. Speaker in the A and B units. Pickups in A and B units. Both close coupled with six pin connector mounted vertically in the diaphragm and can barely see the connectors because of close coupling.
Not concerned with how it sounds. This is model railroading.
You would only need four wires.
I think you would be happier with two decoders. Instead of assigning the same ID to both units, assign different ones and consist/MU the units together. Then, you will get engine sounds plus bells and whistles from the "lead" engine, and only engine sounds from the other engine.
As long as you are permanently fastening the engines together, you will get far better power reliability if you draw power from the trucks of both units and connect the power wires from one to the other. Of course, that means that the dummy unit will need metal wheels and trucks that can carry power.
I have a Lenz DCC system. If other brands don't work this way when consisted, I hope someone will let us know. Thanks.
i have an HO Athearn RTR F7 A unit and dummy B unit. I am considering adding sound to the A unit and the B unit, possibly WOW diesel decoder.
Obviously plenty of space in the dummy, so I was thinking the following:
Install the wow Diesel decoder in the B unit and just install the speaker in the A unit. Wires between the locos can easily be discussed as the units are permanently coupled with a drawbar.
Now to install sound in the B unit I could easily add an additional speaker in the B unit but I would not want horn and bell sounds coming from B unit.
would I be better to put just a sound only decoder and speaker in the B unit, program the address the same as the A unit, and reduce the volume on unwanted sounds? I could get power to the B Unit decoder from the A unit, rather than adding power pick up to the b unit.
I I appreciate all comments and I am open to other suggestions.
thanks Martin.