Would one of these require a motor change or other significant change regarding amp draw, magnets, etc?
Are they reasonable runners?
If I tackle it, would want to use a LokSound Select.
Thanks for any related info.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
The can motor ones should be decent runners and not be excessive current - but check it. The old open frame motors Roundhouse used to use are noisy current hogs, but the can motor was a much newer design. While you can get even better motors, you'll probbaoly get more bang for the buck by checking the usual stuff like making sure the gear mesh is good, not too tight and not too loose, and take out any binds in the rods and valve gear.
A good place to check - back issues of MR when they reviewed the loco in question, or one similar. Since MR review publish things like current draw and speeds at various voltages, you can get a good idea of the running ability with the stock motor. A good example - many years ago I came across an eBay auction for a Walthers Trainline FA factory painted Reading. I had no idea this existed, but I knew the Trainline series was a bit of a lower tier, superior to train set locos but not ultimate top quality. I found the MR review of the loco and upon reading it I immediately placed a bid - in the review, the sample loco started moving at 0.5 SMPH on pure DC and peak stalled current was under .5 amps. Definitely a top quality mechanism even if the body details were a bit lacking compared to say the P2K version of this loco. Adding details is the easy part, replacing the running gear is much more complicated (and expensive)
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Paul,
The original MDC/Roundhouse steam engines had a rather cheap open frame motor and plastic gears that many times were warped. Brass wheels and a poor electrical pickup system made them 'iffy' runners.
NWSL made a replacement gear set and a nice can motor/flywheel repowering package for these engines. IIIRC, later runs had nickel-silver wheels.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Well, I bit the bullet on this, wanting a different kind of project. Looks like a plastic axle gear and brass wheels. I'll check out improvements such as NWSL.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROUNDHOUSE-HARRIMAN-4-6-0-457-HO-SCALE-UNION-PACIFIC-CAN-MOTOR-LOCOMOTIVE-KIT-/201604875787?hash=item2ef096460b:g:GlUAAOSwzJ5XYeGM
- can replacement nickle silver wheels be had?
- can oxidation of the brass wheels be reduced with a (conductive) coating?
- how does one go about determining what detailing parts might be appropriate? would someone at CalScale, etc know by loco type what to recommend, or might I find some other pointers elsewhere?
Hi Paul. The later runs of that model had nickel-silver wheels. You could try to find some used ones, but I would focus on adding extra power pickups on the tender wheels and on the other drivers. Calscale is what I used to add details to mine.
Simon
I converted an MDC old time 2-8-0 into a Winans Camel 0-8-0 a number of years ago. It had brass wheels but I had them silver plated by a site I found but cannot remember the site or find the link.
I also changed the gears by using the NWSL MDC 45 to 1 replacement gears. Somewhat better gear reduction.
All my Roundhouse locos have the compound gear arraignment that NWSL sells in their MDC upgrade series. They sell the worm for the motor also. The matching worm gear is on an intermediate shaft with a spur gear driving a spur gear on an axle.
The 72 to 1 were excellent for a 0-4-0.
I was able to pickup the replacement open frame with skewed armature from River City RR that had carried older MDC stock before the motors were sold out. The same motor that you can see at the MDC, HO Seeker website. I sent in the parts sheets. Motor is the same that came in the Athearn Roundhouse series before they were discontinued. Good running motor for DCC as I converted my MDC and Athearn locos to DCC. The Athearn use to come DCC ready.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
The kit arrived today. It looks reasonably nice but I will take my time getting to it, not necessarily the next project.
If I'm going to the trouble I will likely obtain some NWSL upgrade parts. Can someone advise how to change the wheel axle and worm gears? Do I need special pullers and presses? I'm guessing there's not room for adding a flywheel. And I guess I need to drill a hole through the boiler from the front for headlight wires as I think the headlight is just a jewel dummy.
I'm also guessing the frame is hot to one rail. can the motor be isolated simply with tape under it or might it also touch the boiler aside it such that isolation is difficult? Etc...
Any more key pointers are welcome. I have looked through the directions only briefly.
EDIT: Here's one site per a search (old threads) on getting wheels plated...never mind, he no longer does it I read further on.
http://www.sierrascalemodels.com/plating.htm
Someone else does it, but it may be more than I want to spend. I understand the special service, labor, etc, so it's on me to decide what it's worth to me.
http://www.shayfixer.com/shayfixercontact.htm
Get the Puller from NWSL.
I bought the Quarterer.
NWSL has all the tools. Check the site.
Make sure you have a wheel gauge.
I bought everything when they use to be in Seattle, Washington so quite a few years ago.
I also bought all their motor, gear documents at the time because the Internet did not exist. I believe all the info is online. Thin plastic coated documents with motor sizes were great. Sagami at the time but long gone though still sold on ebay. The 1620 motor with flywheel was super.
Dave does answer email.
Gears should not need any filing. A light press fit.
I heated the gears for an easier fit. Learned that when watching helicopter gear boxes being assembled.
The below looks like what you have.
http://www.hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionMdc/Assembly%20Explosion%2022L%204-6-0%20Ten%20Wheeler.jpg
The newer Athearn Roundhouse are the below arraignment.
http://www.hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionMdc/roundhouse260diagram.jpg
If the motor need isolation from the frame, use Kapton tape, not electrical tape which is too thick and can affect gear lash.
DCC sellers sell it. I have done this in a Walther's diesel install.
Use nylon screws instead of the steel screws. Use an ohm meter to make sure no connection between the motor frame and loco frame. Mine had a wire from the frame to the motor and a wire from the tender pickups.
richg1998The below looks like what you have. http://www.hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionMdc/Assembly%20Explosion%2022L%204-6-0%20Ten%20Wheeler.jpg
I get Permission Denied for both those links. I don't see any requirement to join HO Seeker.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I just tried both. The second one permission denied and then it worked when I clicked few minutes later. Possibly the owner of the site is doing maintenance.
Just remembered the newer install uses a plastic holder for the motor.
I have done a few installs using bath caulk and adjusting the motor for minimum gear lash. The beauty of doing that is isolating motor noise with the caulk. I did it with round can motors with a flywheel on the double shaft motor.
I did a single motor with the flywheel on the one motor shaft and the worm in front of the flywheel.