Interesting, thought only the Canadians didn't do flashing ditch lights. What do I know, I model the 50's, and a prototype that barely used the headlights let alone had any extra warning lights or beacons on any locos.
A cheap second decoder is certainly the cheapest way to go, do not combine the blue leads between the two, keep then seperate. Do rig up some way to disconnect each decoder to program 1 at a time. Usually there will be issues especially with 2 different brands with CV overlap.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Yeah, I don't see spending $70 or more to replace a decoder when adding a $20 function decoder will do. Actually, what I would probably do, especially if space is tight, is add an N-scale or Z-scale motor control decoder. For example, you can get a Digitrax DN136 or DZ126 for less than a FL2 and they are significantly smaller.
The U.P. Does not use alternately flashing ditch light. That seems to be an eastern rr thing. The main reason for not replacing decoders is cost. Since I've already spent $700 that's not a viable option. (3 units)
It's always possible to add a second decoder. Programming with 2 decoders can be complex though, it's usually best to rig a way to connect each decoder seperately for programming and then plug them both in to run.
The FL2 won't meet the needs, for ditch lights plus a beacon you need 3 functions. US ditch lights flash alternately, that's one function per ditch light, plus a third one for the beacon on the roof.
Replacing the decoder with a full featured one is probably the best option. Full Tsunamis and Loksounds have 6 functions, which is enough for the headlights, ditch lights, and beacon.
Assuming that this is even possible to add a second decoder to expand the lighting functions, wouldn't it make more sense to simply replace the existing decoder with a full function decoder?
Rich
Alton Junction
Ed's got most of it. The trick is programming the two decoders with the same address.
What you need to do is enable the locks on each (CV 15 and 16 IIRC), lock the one you don't want to program, then unlock the one you do. Lock the first one, then reverse the process to program the other decoder. Then lock both again.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Hergy From the specs it looks like if I can find the blue wire and splice in, I could get the additional functions I need.
The function only decoder sounds like a good idea. I have used them in passenger cars for rear mars lights, marker lights and interior lighting as well.
I wouldn't "splice in" to the blue+ wire but run the beacon and ditch lights separately from the Tsunami.
Puck up the right and left rails as usual but wire the lighting outputs independent of the Tsunami. Leave the original headlights on the factory decoder. Address the Function decoder to the same address as the Tsunami and you should be good to go.
For ditch lights you might have to go with the FL4 since I believe each ditch light would be one function.
Good Luck, Ed
I have a Walthers U.P. Excursion set which consists of an E9 A-B-A. It's a beautiful set but falls woefully short when it comes to lighting functions. The ditch lights are inoperable and the rooftop beacon is also non working. I popped the shell off hoping I could find some way to get these features working. The decoder is a Soundtraxx but highly modified, probably to Walther's specs. There is not a soldering pad on this decoder. Small sockets are soldered to the board and the various connections for motor, right track, left track etc. plug into these sockets. Current lighting options consist of headlight and #boards on F5.
I came across a TCS FL-2 which is described as a 2 function lighting decoder. From the specs it looks like if I can find the blue wire and splice in, I could get the additional functions I need. (Assuming the wire color coding is correct). I have room for this decoder also.
I've never used an additional decoder and have no clue how to program or operate, but this looks like what I need. Am I on the right track? Any suggestions for wiring etc?