If you are powering the frogs then it completley makes no difference how long the frog is. UNpowered, sure - the longer the frog, the more difficult it will be for locos to make it across the dead section, and the shorter the power pickup wheelebase, the worse it gets. But powered, it will be like there is continuous power at all points through the turnout except for the miniscule but that is the insulated joiner or gap you need. No need to make different cuts for gaps, just gap the two rails that lead away fromt he frog where they connect to the adjoinging track. Or even better, gap the rails a loco length or more down the track if you can, that way a loco approaching a turnout set against it will hit a dead section instead of running through and derailing. Only mods to the Electrofrog should be cutting the two jumpers marked, adding the two they leave space for to make sure you have power on the pooint rails, and powering the frog. No need to cut or make other gaps within the rails of it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I am using HO Peco Electrofrog switches. Making these DCC friendly makes for a
very long FROG. My DCC friendly Walther switches have a very short frog to which
I have added a frog juicer. I run 2-8-2, 2-10-2, 4-12-2, 4-6-6-4, and 4-8-8-4 locomotives
and various brands of diesel. ARE SUCH LONG PECO FROGS A BENEFIT OR A CURSE? I will use frog juicers as well.
I was thinking to use a cut-off disk closer to the frog on both sides and place
styrene as a buffer in the cuts-thoughts?
Thank you in advance