I just pickup up a Digitrax DN163K0d decoder at my LHS for $9 and thought (since it has a 1.0/2.0 amp rating) I would just hardwire it to run one of my HO DCC ready/capable (loco with can motor but not plugin ready) locos. I started to look at the solder pads and don't know which are for the rail power pickup? I know the two large ones are for the motor and the lights are already set up with LED's soldered to the board. This was a drop in decoder for a Kato F40PH so some of the contacts are made to fit the Kato chassis and the Digitrax lit doesn't show any of this. The Digitrax literature does show some of the other pads for additional lighting functions though. I just don't want to fry this thing before it gets mounted in the loco. I am putting it in one of my HO diesels; either a Genesis or IM F3.
-Bob
Here is a link to the Digitrax instructions:
http://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/products/mobile-decoders/dn163k0d/documents/dn163k0d.pdf
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Hi Bob, have a look at the picture of the mounted decoder. If you look good you see copper strips coming from the front and rear at both sides. The decoder has its 'pick-up' points on the 4 corners, where it is touching those strips. Hope that clarifies. Good luck, Rene
Just noticed that the actual decoder in the package doesn't match the photo on the install sheet. Here is the actual decoder that was in the pack; a little different but very similar.
The power pickups are on the opposite side of the board. Take a look at the install instructions, the close up where it shows putting the Kapton tape on. Look at the two brass rails int he loco, you will see on the left side, near the retaining clip, two little bumps (there are two others up where the tape covers as well - in fact the picture may show the lower piece of tape installed a little too far to the left, covering the bump, whereas the tape piece on the top of the photo does not cover the bump immediately to the left of the tape). On the stock board they make contact with the bottom to provide power to the lights, on the decoder there should be pads in these locations to pick up power for the decoder.
While this was a steal of a price, for hardwiring in N scale locos, one of the DZ series decoders may be a better options, tiny and with wires to make the connections, not an open exposed board engineered to make specific contact points within the loco chassis.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks guys, I think I have it figured out now. I did notice when zooming in on the install photo that there is a copper/bronze contact strip running the length on each side of the loco and between wheel sets, which would be the power pickups. On the bottom side of the decoder are several contact areas that would make contact with the bumps you pointed out Randy. I will solder some leads to these and do a test setup with a motor. I NOW realize that this may not have been as good a deal as I envisioned in the store but it should give me one more DCC loco to run. I have several DC diesels that I am in no hurry to get converted to DCC but when I run across a deal like this I tend to jump before looking. Thanks again,
I wired the decoder as discussed and everything works great! I installed it in an Intermountain F3B which I will run as a consist with the A unit when I get the LOK sound system for it. I removed the onboard LED since it isn't needed. I ususally run the same decoder/brand when consisting but this opportunity was just too good to pass up. If it gives me problems at that time then I will replace it. Thanks again for your help.