Anyone have an idea or reference of how to install soundtraxx current keepers in Athearn genesis sd70ace. I cant find any documentation on this anywhere. I know how to install the ones with the wire connected compasitor but this is completely different. Also what are peoples preferences on current keeps? Soundtraxx are so big they take alot of work to fit in the shells.
To make things a bit easier to find- what decoder is in the unit?
Is this a factory installed decoder? Has for current keepers- they are all about the same size-some may be configured a bit differant.
Yes, it is a factory installed decoder dated 2010 on the decoder. It has the built in compasitor on the bottom side of the decoder.
These sites MAY have the assistance you seek:
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm
OR
https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/home/decoders/keep-alive-compatibility
Keep in mind that the capacitor you see on the board is probably for the sound output only so won't help you for motor or lighting keep alive.
I have to ask, though. You have twelve wheels contacting the rail, do you really need keep alive on a brute like that?
Good Luck, Ed
I know but i have a fairly large layout in my basement. I keep the track as clean as i can with the time that i have. But when i run i get alot of interuption in current flow even with the big modern day beasts that i run. Im hoping to create a layout that is more fun to run on and less stressfull. You know when electrical interuptions occur over turnouts and some dirty track it creates jerky motions pulling rolling stock apart or just even looks less prototypical when you have to stop your op session to rerail cars or hook them back together. Thanks for your help!!!
gmpullman These sites MAY have the assistance you seek: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm OR https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/home/decoders/keep-alive-compatibility Keep in mind that the capacitor you see on the board is probably for the sound output only so won't help you for motor or lighting keep alive. I have to ask, though. You have twelve wheels contacting the rail, do you really need keep alive on a brute like that? Good Luck, Ed
You do know that electricty will take the path of least resistance, Right? So in the real world there is but one wheel making electrical conection, even though there are twelve wheels making contact with the rail.
woodone gmpullman These sites MAY have the assistance you seek: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm OR https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/home/decoders/keep-alive-compatibility Keep in mind that the capacitor you see on the board is probably for the sound output only so won't help you for motor or lighting keep alive. I have to ask, though. You have twelve wheels contacting the rail, do you really need keep alive on a brute like that? Good Luck, Ed You do know that electricty will take the path of least resistance, Right? So in the real world there is but one wheel making electrical conection, even though there are twelve wheels making contact with the rail.
Sorry, but electricity will take any and every path. Not just one. Every electrical repairman will tell you this. Never think it will take only the easiest path.... That will get you injured, or killed.
The whole "least resistance" thing is an old wives tale.
You will still have full 12 wheel pickup.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Very true. The lion's share of current will go through the path with the least resistence, but that's just Ohm's Law in action. Current will flow from ALL pickup points as long as there is a conductive path. A broken wire, or a wheel sitting on a spot of paint or a plastic frog - no current there, but unless a wheel is so completely coated in grime as to insualte it from the rail, it will pick up power.
Pushed out to the high voltage world - indeed thinking along the least resistence lines can definitely get you killed. The point you are thinking of touching, because there is a 'lesser resistence' path in parallel, may not be the highest resistence path once you touch it. And even if it is - current still flows. The only safe circuit is one which is de-energized completely. I'm happy there are "pro" electricians who will replace switches and outlets without killing the breaker - I'm not one of them. I'm perfectly fine with shutting off the breaker, and since no one else in the house messes with that stuff, I feel safe once I verify that the circuit I need to touch is dead. If I was working with other people, I would also tag the breaker so the next guy doesn't come along and wonder why it's off and flip it back on. It's like a blue flag on the railroad. Only the foreman who placed the blue flag can remove it, and it's there to remind other crews that someone may be working in, on, or under the piece of equipment and it is not to be moved or even coupled to while the flag remains.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.