Looking at the biggest picture I could find of it (the one on the Miniatronics web site is too small to see anything), it looks like there is a diode by the input side, which is why it worked on DCC, but it is always best to use the specified power supply. I doubt it's super sensitive to the power supply voltage, but too high will result in the lights possibly burning out.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
OK guys. I found the answer. The unit is Minitronic ( Lighting effect Arc Welder # 100-201-01. It says a 12vDC power source is required. Nothing about REGULATED 12v. I guess I will get one just to make sure of a constant voltage.
Harold
Maybe. It could just have a single diode to protect from hooking up the DC source backwards (all good circuits should have that). It would then work on DCC, but with half wave power it could be stressing components expecting DC. The picture will tell us.
Googled a couple. Evans has one, and you can order it 3 ways: 9V DC battery power, 12V DC transformer power, and a 12V AC/DC version that works on either. Circuitron has one, works on AC or DC, theirs shows a picture of the board, it has a single diode for half wave rectification feeding a filter cap and a voltage regulator. One of the DIY ones I found is most definitely DC only, there is nothing between the power input and the hex gate IC used for the random oscillators.
Since it operates on DCC, this tells us it must have a full wave bridge rectifier that rectifies AC and passes DC with a voltage drop of 1.4 volts. Pretty common. Usually the specs say AC or DC.
Some might be four diodes or a single device with four leads. Usually a D prefix next to the devices.
Just in case, look in the Model Railroader general discussion forum for how to post photos here if you have never done it.
A picture here is worth a thousand words and many times can help solve an issue much quicker.
I just did a Google search for led arc welder simulator and a bunch out there. There is an Image option with Google also. Some commercial, some DIY. You must have a commercial version from your description.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Randy
I will post it tomorrow.
Can you post a clear picture of the circuit board? If it's small, the whole thing, otherwise concentrate on the area where the power input connects. Then we can get some idea of what it might need for input. THe fact that it worked when tested on DCC menas it must have a rectifier of some sort, otherwise it would have been damaged. A look at the board will tell us.
I still need the answer to one question. Can I hook this simulator to the DCC track. As I mentioned, this would be the only one I would have hooked up this way. I am not worried about drawing away power but I don't want to burn up the simulator. A friend told be I should be using a REGULATED 12vdc
Harold:
The old wall wart HAS TO HAVE some identifying information on it, especially if it was made by Panasonic. It may be very faint and require a magnifying glass to read but it has to be there. Otherwise no country would allow them to be imported. I suggest you get out your magnifying glass and have another look.
Regardless of that, if it worked on DCC track power then you know that it works on somewhere around 14 volts so a 12 volt wall wart is likely a safe bet. There must be a rectifier circuit in the electronics if it worked on DCC.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Sometimes a DC wall wart will have one of the output wires with a white stripe (should be +) Like Randy says, I can't remember seeing one without output specs on the case.
I use a silver Sharpie pen to mark the ratings on the case for old eyes to see.
You have to watch out for higher output voltages when you are well below the rated current.
Many 12V DC wallwarts will output closer to 18-19 open circuit volts. If you only have a small load, say a few LEDs or a small motor you might be applying too high of a voltage.
Ed
Some cheap wall warts have the specs embossed into the plastic between to two AC prongs. I usually have to use an LED flash light to see the specs.
Some are just a transformer with maybe a ceramic cap. AC out.
Some a transformer, rectifier and electrolytic cap. Unregulated DC out.
Some a high frequency switcher with electronic voltage regulator. Regulated DC. Those are good for 100 vac up to about 240 vac input called universal wall warts.
I have pulled a few apart over the years.
All it had on the Wart was Panasonic. I originally checked the voltage with my meter but don't remember the exit voltage. It now has no output voltage.
I am going to check with my railroad store to check the manufacture.
As my layout is almost complete (Never Happen) I do not get tempted to use the track power. All of my accessories are powered not using the track.
Did you already toss the original wall wart? I haven't seen one that doesn;t state power specs somewhere, if not a sticker then it is often molded into the case (and hard to see unless you hold it under the light just right). Since it worked on DCC, it PROBABLY can work with an AC input, but no guarantees without more info. There are literally dozens of arc welder circuits available to purchase, plus at least as many diagrams of how to build them yourself, so it would help if you have any idea of where you got it from.
I would not power ANYTHING from the DCC track, just because DCC power is 'expensive' Sure, might not matter for this circuit which might draw 30ma on a bad day, but once you do one, the 'ease' of just connecting things to the nearby track or the existing power bus becomes a huge temptation. If you end up needing more power, a DCC booster and power supply is definitely over $100, whereas a simple power supply to drive all the accessories can be had for $20 or $30 (less if you really shop ebay). Accessories that are not controlled by DCC should not be powered by DCC.
Sounds like the power pack for the simulator has failed.
Mine operates off of 12 vdc. But mine comes with extra LED's feeding fiber optic so I see the main arc and tiny flickers of sparks from the fiber optics. Most electronic accessories operate off of 12vdc. A few might use AC but usually have a rectifier to convert to DC on the PC board. No info on the PC board?
You can use the DCC which is usally in the area of 12 to 16 VAC if your system has enough power. Since the simulator operates on DCC, this tells me the PC board must have a rectifier on it. DCC is a form of AC.
A picture of the PC board would help.
I have had an LED ARC welder simulation on the layout connected to a Wall Wart.
It just stopped working. When I touched it to the DCC track it works.
1. Does anyone know the Manufactures name?
2. Can you use it with feeders from the DCC track?
3. If not , what is the output voltage I need from the Wall Wart. The one I used did not show the output voltage and I forgot what it measured.
Thanks in advance