Mark R. Doughless Thanks Mark. I don't know. Its a b23-7 installed privately and bought by me second hand (it has ditchlights installed very nicely). It works great so I'm not inclined to pop the shell at this point. I assumed that the individual diesel sounds were pretty much universally goverend by the same CVs and instruction manual. I just need to tone down the sound of the GE chug chug a bit relative to the other sounds. Sometimes different CV values may be used for the same feature in different files, but lets "assume" not in this case. Loksound decoders have upper register CVs that need to be set first before making changes to any CV higher than 255. In this case, the prime mover volume being CV259. You need to set CV31 to 16 and CV32 to 1 first before changing the value of CV259. The volume range for the prime mover is 0 to 128. The default value of CV259 is maximum volume set to 128. Mark.
Doughless Thanks Mark. I don't know. Its a b23-7 installed privately and bought by me second hand (it has ditchlights installed very nicely). It works great so I'm not inclined to pop the shell at this point. I assumed that the individual diesel sounds were pretty much universally goverend by the same CVs and instruction manual. I just need to tone down the sound of the GE chug chug a bit relative to the other sounds.
Thanks Mark.
I don't know. Its a b23-7 installed privately and bought by me second hand (it has ditchlights installed very nicely). It works great so I'm not inclined to pop the shell at this point. I assumed that the individual diesel sounds were pretty much universally goverend by the same CVs and instruction manual.
I just need to tone down the sound of the GE chug chug a bit relative to the other sounds.
Sometimes different CV values may be used for the same feature in different files, but lets "assume" not in this case.
Loksound decoders have upper register CVs that need to be set first before making changes to any CV higher than 255. In this case, the prime mover volume being CV259.
You need to set CV31 to 16 and CV32 to 1 first before changing the value of CV259. The volume range for the prime mover is 0 to 128. The default value of CV259 is maximum volume set to 128.
Mark.
Yeah, CV259, thanks Mark. Couldn't find the CV259 where I was looking, even though I've think I've used it in the past. Got it written down on the layout fascia now.
- Douglas
dstephenson I followed your advise and found a solution to my CF7 pick up problem on a google web search posted by Tony's trains, now i can stop cleaning my track's like crazy, if all I have to do is install new wheel sets that fit more tightly between the side plates axels it will have to be done as I have lot of time and money already spent on this Athearn engine and in addition I just purchased a Genesis MP1500 DCC ready switcher for my next sound decorder installation project.Thanks Ed. Darryl
I followed your advise and found a solution to my CF7 pick up problem on a google web search posted by Tony's trains, now i can stop cleaning my track's like crazy, if all I have to do is install new wheel sets that fit more tightly between the side plates axels it will have to be done as I have lot of time and money already spent on this Athearn engine and in addition I just purchased a Genesis MP1500 DCC ready switcher for my next sound decorder installation project.Thanks Ed. Darryl
You can correct this yourself without buying new wheels. Just tap the axle out on each wheel the required 0.034", re-install in the plastic gear housing and re-gauge the wheels.
I lay the wheel face down on the jaws of my vice with the axle hanging down between the jaws. Tap on the axle until it moves the required amount. A caliper reading before you start is imperative. Fifteen to thirty minutes tops to do the whole engine.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Doughless As long as we are praising LokSound, Can anybody tell me how to turn down the volume of ONLY the prime mover in a select 4.0? The manual I read lists various individual volume controls, horn, squeal, etc., but I can't seem to find the right CV for the PM. In the loco I have, the chug of exhaust dominates the volume of the horn throughout the master volume scale, so lowering the volume of only the PM would be helpful.
As long as we are praising LokSound,
Can anybody tell me how to turn down the volume of ONLY the prime mover in a select 4.0? The manual I read lists various individual volume controls, horn, squeal, etc., but I can't seem to find the right CV for the PM.
In the loco I have, the chug of exhaust dominates the volume of the horn throughout the master volume scale, so lowering the volume of only the PM would be helpful.
Which sound file is it ? And is it a Select decoder or a V4.0 ? - can't be both. ;)
dstephensonHas anyone used WD40 on the track or engine wheels to solve this problem with the more sentive decoders mentioned in this stream? Darryl
Hi, Darryl
Do a search for Athearn pick up problems and you might find more information about design shortfalls and ways to improve electrical continuity.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=athearn+pick+up+problems
There has been some discussion about "enhancements" for electrical continuity here, too. I prefer a product called CRC 2-26 over WD40.
Regards, Ed
I just recentyl installed a TDC WOW sound decoder in an Athearn CF7 and I am also having some similar problems even with a built in keep alive module, the engine does automatically reset itself on the dead spots but at slow speeds it can be a rep!etitive interruption sounds unprototypical.
I cleaned the engines wheels with alcohol and I use aero track cleaner on my Peco switches and Atlas flex track, I have only programed the decoder for manual notching thus far because i'm still trying to find the reason for the continued power supply interruptions even though I have soldered feeder wires every after every switch in my multi track switch yard shelf layout. I purposely used undersized connectors when I started laying track down two years ago, ant all of the connection are super tight. My MTH SD70's are far less sensitive than this latest run of CF7's from Athearn, I do notice that the decoder works better with a load behind it at higher notching speeds than when I run it alone? This leads me to believe it maybe a CV issue thar can be correted through auto notching calibration which is an option built in to the TDC decoder, otherwise I must have oxidation going on? This is the only operating problem I have experienced with the WOW sound decoder of which I really enjoy, the multiple features and outstanding sound options are great, just needs to solve this one issue ?
Has anyone used WD40 on the track or engine wheels to solve this problem with the more sentive decoders mentioned in this stream? Darryl
Athearn
The ESU Power Packs have three wires. That third wire is a control wire which electronically takes the capacitor out of the circuit for error-free programming.
When I use TCS Stay Alive modules, I just install a micro-mini slide switch under the bottom of the chassis to cut the capacitor in or out of the circuit.
Anytime Dave! I initially was going for the Loksound version and then the guy I get all my stuff from recommended I save some money as the NCE's work just as good. Personally I think they are all the same pretty much no matter who you go with. They just have the one function so there's not a whole lot to them.
And good luck! Keep us posted!
Mike
Thanks Mike:
I have looked at the NCE units but I had two of the Loksound Power Packs on hand so I used those first. I also just discovered that I had purchased the Loksound recommended size capacitors and other bits for a DIY keep alive some time ago (great memory eh!) so I'm going to give them a try.
Appreciate your help!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Dave,
Negative sir. I'm actually using NCE no halt units. They were cheaper and Bryan and Streamlined recommended them. But they are just a simple two wire connection just like any setup you would build. Just decided to save some money and I like NCE stuff.
Mike:
Thanks for that tip.
Just to clarify, you are using your own capacitors and not the Loksound PowerPack - is that correct?
I use the Loksound programmer with the Loksound decoders as well as the no halt units/capacitors.
I saw the warning as well and initially had issues when programming. The way I've found to get it work is after you write to the card you have to pull the loco off the programming track for 15-20 seconds to set. Then back on the track to test. Works flawlessly and I've had no issues since finding the secret to make it work!
The programmer is another flawless piece of excellence from Loksound! Let me know if you have any questions conc programming!
Get yourself some replacement wheels from NWSL. The old Atheran BB locos used sintered iron wheels - iron powder forced into a mold at high pressure. It's rough, which is great for tractive effort, but it collects dirt. Nicek silver or at least nickel plated wheels as smooth, so you lose some tractive effort, but the smoth surface stays cleaner longer and you gain superior electrical pickup.
You can also probably get the wheels direct from Athearn, since the new Genesis and RTR locos come with these types of wheels instead of the old sintered iron.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Dave you are right. I didn't notice this warning earlier.
But, I don't have the Lokprogrammer. I just use my command station DCS200 - from Digitrax Super Chief set. I do it even on main track (not programming track). I was able to programm addresses and all CV for all my models without any problem.
I would be grateful for an answers from ESU forum about it. Is it really necessary to disconnect the capacitor before programming?
I am going to buy the Lokprogrammer in the future and this warning is a little scary.
Ed:Thank you for the link. It is exactly what is wrong in design of the truck. The conductivity between wheels and "square bearings on the axles that fit in a square notch in the steel sides of the truck" is poor. I upgraded it a bit by adding my own wires. It helped for DC but wasn't enough for Loksound decoders. Another issue is material from which wheels are made in older models. This metal covers with some kind of coating very quickly. I am not sure if it is a corrosion. But every few weeks I clean wheels and there are marks of something on a cloth which I use for cleaning.
Thanks Arras88:
If I can grill you some more, what are you using to program your decoders? The reason I ask is that there is a warning on the bottom of page 25 in the Loksound V4.0 manual that says the capacitor must be disconnected before programming with the Lokprogrammer. It doesn't say if the capacitor has to be disconnected for all programming with any command station. Your experience suggests that the warning applies to the Lokprogrammer only.
I'm going to ask the question in the ESU forum as well.
Thanks
Arras88The biggest problems I had with Athearn models
I have had the very same problem with some Athearn F3s and F7s. It seems that some of the trucks were designed poorly and didn't allow the axle end to fully engage the bronze pick-up strip completely.
Go to the links at the bottom of the replys from Mark and Frank of this thread:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/228382.aspx
Good Luck, Ed
I installed my own capacitors. According to the ESU manual.
No problems with programming at all. Everything works as before. Finally models run smoothly even on step one. I couldn't start Athearn models without capacitors.
Arras88:
Did you use Loksound's PowerPack keep alives or did you install your own capacitors?
If you used your own, have you had any problems with programming or otherwise?
Thanks.
I'm pretty sure that my problems are not related to power connections. I have a power feed on every separate piece o track. I don't trust rail joiners so every turnout and flex track has a separate connection.
I admit that my layout might be a little dusty right know. I work on the layout in a second room so don't clean track on layout in the first room very often. I will do it when I join two parts of layout together.
However, I sometimes want to relax running trains instead of construction work on the layout. I have no problem with models equipped with Tsunami, QSI, ProtoSound decoders at all. Even without cleaning tracks.
If I want to run models with LokSounds problems begins. They are extremely sensitive. Removing dust from track with a cloth soaked with alcohol helps.
The biggest problems I had with Athearn models - F59PHI and AMD103. It seems that these models have wheels made from metal which tarnish very quickly. Every time I wanted to run these models I had to clean wheels.
It was madness so I installed capacitors and problems disapeared.
5150WS6 Dang you must have done it right Randy! I'm not sure why I was having so much trouble. I've got two feeders per switch, and one per piece of track. And some of the parts were soldered together. Just wanted to make sure I had good connections. But even with my newer and especially my older loco's I was having stuttering and flashing of the headlights. Granted some of my locos needed a good wheel cleaning and I finally got some good track cleaner set up and it got better. But still not 100%. So I went ahead and put in the keep alives. :) Just to keep things going! To me it's a cheap investment for a little piece of mind for whatever was causing the stuttering and flashing!
Dang you must have done it right Randy! I'm not sure why I was having so much trouble. I've got two feeders per switch, and one per piece of track. And some of the parts were soldered together. Just wanted to make sure I had good connections. But even with my newer and especially my older loco's I was having stuttering and flashing of the headlights. Granted some of my locos needed a good wheel cleaning and I finally got some good track cleaner set up and it got better. But still not 100%. So I went ahead and put in the keep alives. :) Just to keep things going! To me it's a cheap investment for a little piece of mind for whatever was causing the stuttering and flashing!
I have 3 pairs of feeders per turnout - each leg of an Atlas turnout gets feeders to both rails. That I think helps a lot.
I buy Digitrax SDXH decoders because I'm a cheap$kate, but all of my high end engines have LokSound. They are amazing.
I keep my track clean (though I don't do anything special - the only cleaning it gets is after painting the rail sides, some always gets on the railhead. One layotu was in an unfinished basement, the last one was in a spare bedroom with carpet and all that), and I have plenty of power feeds (though many will tell me I'm doing it wrong there as well - all my feeders are rail joiners with wires soldered to the bottom, and I only solder the actual rails together on curves). I didn;t even power the frogs on the last layout, they were Atlas #4's and all my locos went through at slow speed without stalling - I DID have wires attached to the frogs ready to hook up power if needed, but they ended up just hanging down under the layout. Despite 2 dogs and 2 cats, I haven't had power issues. There is no smoking allowed in my house, smoking friends who come over have to go outside to smoke, so that certainly helps.
I haven't added keep alives to any of my locos, the motor only ones don;t flicker their headlights, and the sound ones don't reset, at least not enough to be annoying. Once in a rare while, and that's when the layout and/or loco has sat unused for some time. I will probbaly put tem in the locos I use at club shows though, our layout is modular and short connector tracks are used between the sections for most of the older parts of the layout. Every once in a while the joiners are repalced, but most of the time they fit rather loosely and it does cause headligh tblinks and stalls - every train is run with at least 2 power units just to make sure they don't stall the whole train on these connections. So those I may put keep alives in just for smoother running - but my home layouts have been problem free in this regard so I never bothered. It doesn't really solve anything, it just masks the symptoms, be it dirty track, dirty wheels, dirty pickups, or insufficient feeders.
Arras,I've actually had the same issue with both Loksound as well as the Tsunami decoders. Unless the track is completely spotless both decoders can skip and stop and have issues. Any blinking or flashing of the headlight drives me insane. LOL!
Personally, I have installed the capacitors in all my locos and do from the start. Because for me the realistic look of a light that flickers even once.....completely ruins the experience for me. Since installing the power packs there have been no issues. I use an NCE capacitor set with my Loksound decoders and love them.It's an extra expense and two extra solders, but well worth it in my book.
LokSound, and LokPilot are the upper echelon decoders on the market, in my humble opinion. The amount of flexebility incorporated into these jewels seem to make your options limitless.
I can only recommend the purchase of the LokProgrammer which will make opening these options simple and unlock others you would not even think of.
I am looking forward to the introduction of the ESU SignalPilot slated for sometime this year.
All the best.
Reinhard
Joe F
Hi,I have one question. I've been using a lot od decoders in my models for last few years. I also have some LokSound decoders (both OEM and full market versions) and I really appreciate them for very good sounds. However, there is one thing which annoy me very much. Every other brand products are able to run models on a little dirty tracks. If a model has a problem with picking power from a track you can notice that a model doesn't run smoothly and "jumps" a bit. If you start your engine a very short break of power is not a problem for a model. It still will be going to accelerate (with a little jump of course).
With LokSound it is not possible to start a model. The decoder resets every time the power is missing even for a milisecond. With every reset of decoder the whole starting sequence is being played. Next, a model tries to move a little and again reset. I noticed this problem with my every model with LokSound decoder. Other models run smoothly on the same tracks. For models equipped with LokSound tracks and wheels has to be perfect clean.
Have you noticed this problem? I quess that the only solution is to add a power pack (capacitor)?