it is a done deal. I am buying a station. thanks for all the input everyone!!
Mike
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Very few, if any, soldering tips are anything but copper (maybe some specialty stuff), it's just plated. Using abrasive means to clean it off qill quickly wear through the plating and expose the copper, which when under high heat oxidizes way too fast. Kudos to those who were able to build finely detailed scratch built brass locos using an old type soldering iron, the kind you heated in a gas flame, before they had electric element ones. I spent most of my life working with plain old ordinary irons, a whole pile of them, from a small 15 watter for fine work to a 60 watt one for heavier things like soldering rail. The first time I used my soldering station, I was wondering why I took so long to finally buy one. Even being fairly skilled at the task, the better tool made is even easier to get good results. One of the best tool investments I ever made.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Mike,
I think you will be happy with a temperature controlled station. It's really nice to be able to just leave it on and plugged in, ready to go. Up to a point, anyway. They heat up pretty fast. So, if you're taking a break, then turn it off.
I'm on my second station now. My first worked fine. And still does. But, one day, I had to do some eensy-beensy-little-bitty-next-to-other-things stuff. And I just couldn't hold the iron with enough precision. So I found my new one, where you hold it much closer to the tip--sorta like a pencil. MUCH easier to use. Oh, yeah. Sadly: It cost a buncha money. Ah, well. BUT. I easily did that job. Neat!
I only use that one for electronics. So far, anyway. I've got my old (non-station) regular Weller iron, that I've had for years. I used it a few days ago to solder some square brass wire to a bit of photoengraved brass. Worked great.
I will say that the tip is the original one (years!!). I think two things, at least, led to its durability. One is that I pay attention to the tip temperature. When it melts solder, I wait a little longer and get to work. When the tip starts changing color to dark too quickly, I will unplug the iron and let it cool, before starting over. The other thing is that the only thing, other than solder, that touches the tip is a wet paper towel (sponge equivalent). I just wipe it "when necessary". For example, when I'm done working, I keep wiping the tip until it cools down pretty far, and will keep its "silver" by itself.
Oh, yeah. The tip. It's what we all use now--the "silver tip". I haven't used a copper tip in forever. And don't intend to, if I can help it. And only wet paper towels and solder ever touch it.
I use resin core electronics solder for everything. I used to use .030" size. But when I bought my latest eensy-beensy station, I also got eensy-beensy solder: .020". There's smaller, but the price starts going up. The .020" is what I would recommend.
I also tend to use separate resin flux. I apply it before I solder. I use a liquid. Back when the guvmint payed me to solder, they supplied a liquid flux that would crystallize when it heated. Instead of just staying sticky-gooey. So you could break it off with a probe. I wish I could find some now. I've been using acetone to clean the flux off. I haven't heard any official approval, so I sure hope it's OK. Seems to work, though.
A thing to remember about soldering is timing. Get in and get out. Don't linger any longer than necessary. On the other hand, stay long enough to get a good flow. So it looks presentable.
Ed
I got the soldering station Randy has ( the newer version) It is something I should have pick up years ago as it is a real treat to use.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Flux should be labeled Rosin flux.
I use an expensive solder used in high end audio amplifiers. Better than the RS solder for me.
Some say Sal ammoniac flux is good but wash off the solder connection.
Our club back in the early 1980's before I joined had all the solder connections for feeders done using Sal ammoniac flux. Late 1990's we occasionallyexperienced feeders coming loose from the rail. Tough to solder under the layout while looking up into a mountain for a feeder loose or way across the layout.
I like the RS tip cleaner also. Helps slow down the crust building on the tip.
Good luck. A station will help no doubt.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Early on i think i filed a tip to get a point again but that was already after it had gone go blunt copper. Ni do not do that any more. I usually clean with a wet rag but think i will pick up one of those copper cleaning stations as well.
Again flux was what came with the iron not sure if rosin or acid. Could inassume since i keep eating tips it might be acid flux?
I think inam going to get one of the variable temp rigs. Seems like a good tool investment.
Thanks everyone
I never had a tip overheat or burn out using the lamp dimmer. The soldering iron runs at lower temp. Just like a light bulb that last longer as it is dimmer.
Both have a wire, coil in soldering iron that gets hot with more voltage.
I have gone by experimenting various level for many years and quickly found a suitable setting.
Lets put it this way, works for me. Your mileage may vary.
Mine is actually the odle rmodel with a dial and no digital display, but I understand the digital display one has some presets you can access. On mine, if it will be some time between joints, I turn the temp down, since it heats up quickly anyway. So with the digital one, what I would do is make one of the presets the minimum temperature. ALso at the minimum, mine doesn't melt heat shrink, so I can use it to shrink without melting through and making a mess of the iron liek it would at normal soldering temps.
A lamp dimmer in line is effectively what those cheap Weller ones are - the ones where the iron has a standard plug on the end and plugs in to the base. Those are NOT temperature controlled. The dimmer regulates power, not temperature. The thing will still continuously heat as long as its plugged in. This is what kills the tips. You have to pay a lot more than $50 to get a (new) Weller that is truly temperature controlled.
A brass bristle brush may be too abrasive and it scratching off your plating. Those 'scratch brushes' recommended to clean the weathering off a spot on the rail to solder feeders are also brass... My soldering station came with a stand that has a COPPER pad in it (instead of the wet sponge) to clean the tip off. That works great. Replacements can be found in the grocery store, they are for scrubbing copper pots, as the standard type is too abrasive for the soft metal. I also usually coat the tip with solder between work sessions - after I flip the power off but while the iron is still hot, I melt a blob of solder on the end. Next time, when I power it up and the blob melts, I wipe it off in the copper pad and I have a nice shiny tinned tip.
I've been using the Xytronics recommended above for several months and it's night and day better than the cheap, way too hot pencil irons that burn up tips (some hard to find) like crazy and don't want to stay clean. I set the Xytronics for 360F or so for decoder wiring and keep it tinned and wiped off. I got two spare tips for it but don't see the need. Well worth the money.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I have an Aoyue 937+ digital and I love it. It was only $60 on Amazon. Lots of tips for it on eBay cheap. Picked up a bigger tip for use with building turnouts.
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW
I just saw a couple lamp dimmers at Amazon. About ten dollars.
Like I said, on the cheap if money is tight. A little experimenting you should do ok.
The RS solder should say rosin flux in it. Only rosin flux should be used. for electrical.
You don't file the tips do you?
Full constant heat will be hard on a tip eventually. I remember burning up many quite a few years ago. Been soldering since 1953.
Many years ago before I was able to afford a soldering station I made a temp control with a 120 volt light bulb in series with the soldering pencil and a micro switch on the stand.
You could go on the cheap with a lamp dimmer. I did that when they were beong sold some years ago. Was better than the light bulb method I had been using. No idea if those are sold anymore. Check big box hardware stores.
Thanks for the recomendations on the stations. Maybe i am doing something wrong. I have had the iron since 2007 ish and have gone through 6-8 fine tips.
How i use it:
plug it in let it warm up.
dio in flux and tin the tip
Dip wire in flux tin wire
add flux to board or other piece to be joined with wire
connect two pieces heat with iron to solder
set back on table get next piece ready.
i wipe tip off on old rag to clean and also use a brass wire brush on tip but seems like i get to the copper core fairly quickly and the tip goes from fine to blunt. So what am i doing wrong or is the 25-30 watt not strong enough?
like the idea of adjustable temps station. Will probably buy one of those but i need to get the soldering down. Dont want to run through tips like i have been.
What flux do you use and what solder do you use. My solder is from radio shack 60/40 i think( will have to check when i get home tomorrow). The flux was whatever came with the gun that i bought at a vfw cheap tool sale so not sure what flux it might be.
Thanks again.
rs2mike What do you recommend as a good all around soldering iron for dcc installs, light installs, and magnet wire soldering?
What do you recommend as a good all around soldering iron for dcc installs, light installs, and magnet wire soldering?
Weller WD-1001. I've had one for awhile, and it is superb for working on electronics.
Xytronics LF-389D. A true temperature controlled soldering station for about $50.
https://www.howardelectronics.com/soldering/soldering-stations/for-diy-ers-and-hobbiest/lf-389d/lf-389d-xytronic-minitype-60-watt-soldering-station/
Note: no connection to Howard Electronic Instruments, just a very satisfied repeat customer.
Not sure why so many people pay big bugs for the Hakko FX-888D, it's more than double the price and I've had my Xytronic for 8+ years now and still on the original tip. Parts and tips are readily available for it. I'm considering another for my electronics bench, but this time one of the solder/desolder stations with the vacuum pump so i can take stuff apart as well as assemble it.
Micro Mark has an economy station which looks like the Weller I have. Yes, you can get an expensive one also from other sources.
I have yet to burn out a tip on my Weller.
Amazon has some nice soldering stations with reviews also. If you do not have Prime, free shipping over $35.00.
What does your soldering tip look like? Shiny or dull? If it's dull then the heat from the tip will not transfer well and you will not get a good solder joint.
I actually prefer a soldering "station" (vs iron) where you can adjust the soldering temperature to suit the task you need it for. For fine jobs like wiring decoders: Install a fine tip on the soldering iron, set the temp to ~650F, and make sure the tip is nice and shiny. It's hot enough to melt the solder without harming either the circuitry of the decoder or the insulation of the wire.
For soldering track: Install a broader tip on the soldering iron and set the station to a ~750-800F; again, making sure the tip is shiny. You want to heat the track quickly but not long enough to melt the plastic ties.
I have a Weller WESD51 50W soldering station and like it very much. You can generally find them online, discounted. I bought mine for $100-$125 - with tips. Worth every penny for the versatility.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I have been using a Weller WLC-100 soldering station for some years. Came with a wedge tip. Bought a second wedge tip and two fine point conical tips.
Wedge at 80 percent is good for track feeders and conical tip at 50 percent for decoder board work. Rich
Wedge at 80 percent is good for track feeders and conical tip at 50 percent for decoder board work.
did a search and am not finding what i am looking for. So here it is. What do you recommend as a good all around soldering iron for dcc installs, light installs, and magnet wire soldering?
i have a weller 30w i think. Does not seem to be very good at doing these fine jobs and sure does not do track very well. So i have now bought a gun for the track but still not sure for the fine work.
Thanks for the input
mike