The photo is of an Alco S-4. Once upon a dcc sound decoder was made for the S-4. Now, not sure. Atlas managed to get sound inside an S-2, so its not impossible.
My suggestion: Start with non-sound decoder installs first to build your confidence.
Photos of the RS's will help in identifying them.
Also you will need a multivolt meter with a continuity setting. This is to check that the motor is isolated from the track power. If it is not the decoder goes poof.
I think you'll find the RS-1 and RS-3 are pretty much identical. Sometimes the weight blocks which normally fit around the drive get stuck up in the shell. Not a big deal that the light bar is missing, other than it also means you probably have no lenses in your headlights, unless this is a newer Atlas version, not Kato made, in which case it would already have seperate lights and not that one bulb in the middle on the plastic board.
However - they both take the saem non-sound decoder, so I don;t see why they would take different sound decoders, at least as far as form factor is concerned. I don't see a mention of the RS-1 on the TCS site under WOW Sound installs, just the RS-3. The RS-1 shown on the non-sound install is the Kato built version - on mine I do pretty much the same only I cut the light bars down to just the first mounting post in from the ends of the hood and attach the LED there. The RS-3 shown for the WOW install is an Atlas built one, or possibly a later kato one, it's got a different motor, but the weights ane everything are the same. It has individual lights at each end already. If you want to see the original Kato styler RS-3, there's one of those on the non-sound section as well.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
BigDaddyPaul did you have to isolate the engine? Somewhere I saw a website that said a plastic 2x56 screw was required. I cannot find that site now. The TCS site specifies one board for the RS1 and a different Wow sound board for the RS3,
None of my Atlas RS1 nor Kato RS2 / RSC2 needed motor isolation. The Atlas was a recent (2015) release and the Katos I don't know the year but I guess both were DCC ready. If the loco has a 8-pin spot for a DCC decoder, no need (I think) to isolate the motor. I've converted a bunch of LifeLike P2K locos in the last year and not yet hit one needing motor isolation. But I've learned to ensure that by testing with a meter.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Hi Henry:
Here are a couple of links to some good information on sugar cube speakers:
http://www.sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/sugarcubespeakernotes.html
http://www.sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/wiringmultispeakers.html
As to why to use two speakers, it will give you a little more bass but its not a huge difference. They are so small that quite often there is plenty of space for two. There are two speakers in this critter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZiF3jy44sA
The locomotive uses a Loksound Select Micro decoder.
Note that you must use speaker enclosures with the sugar cube speakers.
One last point. Rich refers to a "1.4 watt" resistor in his first post. I believe he meant '1/4 watt'.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
If the bottom of the motor needs isolating, the Kapton tape and nylon screw is a good idea. Don't let anyone talk you into black electrical tape.
I used Kapton tape and nylon screw with a Walther's diesel. One layer worked just fine. Hopefully the screw is SAE and not Metric. Mine was Metric and had to re-tap to 2-56 screw. I keep four of the smallest taps on hand. Needed in model railroading.
If you do have to do that, file down that tapped hole smooth as the tap will raise a slight ridge which could penetrate the Kapton.
I have only used one speaker. Sound is very subjective.
If you go with two, the MrDCC link I gave before shows you how, just in case.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Paul did you have to isolate the engine? Somewhere I saw a website that said a plastic 2x56 screw was required. I cannot find that site now. The TCS site specifies one board for the RS1 and a different Wow sound board for the RS3,
On mine the boards are identical, down to the same board number, the weights in the RS1 is in the top of the shell, the light bar is missing in the RS3? All the weight in the RS3 is in the fuel tank area and around the drives. Both have a light in the middle of the light board. The S is at the top of the pic.
Are the pair of straight wires running the length of the board crimped, soldered or does that connection slide apart? Releasing the two black plastic clips doesn't really free up the board much, what else holds it down.
Here is the S# innards, a narrow strip of light bar.
I've got lots of questions so thanks everyone for your help. Oh, why 2 speakers? Two is better than one, but this is hardly in the class of high end audiophile requirements. Bear in mind, I am coming from the silent world of DC, if that sounds like a dumb question.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
The RS's are pretty much all identical inside, and are pretty easy with a board repalcement decoder. The S2 needs some help - the motor is grounded to the bottom of the frame so you need to insulate the bottom brush and replace the metal screw with a nylon one. NCE used to sell a decoder specifically for this loco but it is now out of production.
I have an Atlas RS-1. Plus Kato RS-2 (dual axle trucks) and RSC-2 (triple axle trucks.). I've converted these RSs to DCC with sound but have not done so with a shorter S loco. You're on target in thinking it's good to accumulate the basic supplies you will want.
In the RSs, I could fit dual larger sugarcube speakers 13x18mm in the long hood, gluing two together and either using the roof as the enclosure (adding the ends with a piece of styrene) or making a rather thin box, the depth affected by the small distance between the driveline / weight and the roof, which varies by loco. I use Knowles Grand (13x18mm) or Knowles Dunau (smaller) from DigiKey. I make speaker enclosures with 0.040" styrene. I will modify weights as needed or helpful grinder for smaller modifications and taking to my buddy with a milling machine when easier. Some folks hate to lose traction / pulling power by removing weight but I just couple two locos if it gets to that.
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/compare/en?returnUrl=%2Fproduct-search%2Fen%2Faudio-products%2Fspeakers%2F720966%3Fk%3D%26v%3D423%26pv60%3D106%26FV%3Dfff4000b%252cfff80046%26mnonly%3D0%26newproducts%3D0%26ColumnSort%3D0%26page%3D1%26quantity%3D0%26ptm%3D0%26fid%3D0%26pageSize%3D25&part=423-1171-ND&part=423-1200-ND
I use 5mm, 3mm warm white LEDs, plus appropriate resistors, usually 1-2k, only 1/8 watt. (With my LokSound Selects, I can also adjust LED brightness to a degree.) They (parts) can be ordered cheap from China direct on EBay, if willing to wait a couple weeks. Sometimes I use the smaller 0603 SMD LEDs, also from Ebay, but buy them from a guy (in Missori) who sells them by 10s pre-wired with the teeny coated wires.
You can get small shrink wrap from several places, including modeltrainstuff.com and Tony's Trains. They also have a pack of 30AWG decoder wire. There are doubtless cheaper alternatives.
My solder and flux is from Radio Shack. I was using too hot pencil irons, which tend to burn up theire tips (whcih can become hard to find) but happily acquired a $50-60 adjustable soldering station (works at 360F or so) without burning tips.
Note that typical wire strippers do not go to the thin 30AWG so I got one that does. I also like to have the wire "Stripper?" tool that will separate the insulation (by stretching it) in the middle of the wire, so I can make connections off the middle of a wire (makes a 3-way wire) when I wish, easier to manipulate two items (vesrus 3) when soldering that type joint.
Here's a photo inside my Atlas RS-1, using an enclosure box in this case:
This is my Kato RSC-2, but I don't have an interior shot. Dual speakers mated to the roof curve as enclosure.
Here's a TCS website installation (non-sound) depiction of a Kato RS-2. This site can give you an idea of the interior of many locos (but I don't see a Roco S-1):
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Kato/ALCO%20RS2/ALCO%20RS2.html
Sometimes a photo of the loco with shell off is better.
You will need #30 stranded wire and a fine pointed soldering pencil, soldering station.
Usually 1k, 1/4 watt resistors for most LED's. Watch the polarity.
Oh, patience and a lot of research will help. The Internet is loaded with info, photos of DCC installs, sound or no sound. There are many different ways.
Below is one link you can look though.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/HO_Search/search.html
There are many online DCC companies. I have used Litchfield Station.
The below fellow use to own the place until he retired to publish in DCC full time. He usually favors SoundTraxx decoders. Lots of stuff to look through.
http://mrdccu.com/
Edit.
Changed 1.4 to 1/4 watt. A 1/8 watt would work. My junk box is loaded with 1/4 watt is why I used that wattage.
This is marked Austria, Roco I assume from the 1990's, it has a circuit board. Which S is it or is that even important?
I also have 2 Atlas RS's, one in the box RS1 marked made in Japan KATO. It has a round stack close to the cab. The other has a rectangular stack closer to the end of the long hood and is marked Japan only. Is this an RS2 or 3 or does that matter?
If I'm going to go with DCC, I might as well convert these and it's a bit scary for a newbie. The videos and the pics always seem to leave out important bits that I'm not sure how to do.
I'd like to put sound in the RS's it might be a considerable space challenge for the S at my level of skill. I need tiny wires I guess, led's resistors, tiny shrink wrap, decoders, kapton tape?, maybe some extra small speakers. Is there a one stop place that is good at hand holding newbies?
Thanks in advance.