I've purchased DPDT toggle switches from two places. One is American Science and Surplus . . . good prices, but sometimes they are out of stock . . . it depends on what they can buy as surplus. However, their website has always been accurate as to what they have in stock. The other place was mentioned by Lion . . . All Electronics. Both of these places ship very quickly.
LION has used mini-toggles on 1/8" to 1/4" Masonite or ssimilar.
Switches of him (purchased at All Electronics - an MR advertiser) come with a smooth shank, that is they are not threaded. LION simply puts a glob of silicone caulk on the switch body, and pushes it into the hole from the back. Want to take it out again, just twist it free.
LIONS LIKE SIMPLE
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Two layouts ago, I made my control panels using two pieces of plexiglas with a color printed track diagram sandwiched in between. I laid the diagram out in I think Visio because I have that, but you can use anything. In addition to color coding the track lines, and adding text, I also put appropriate size circles to drill holes for the toggles and LEDs. I printed one out in black and white and clamped all 3 layers together to drill out the holes, then when I assembled it I used the color copy. The two layers were held together by the nuts on the toggles. I intended to do the final finishing by makign a frame with a slot down the center of each piece to hold the panel in place, but it never got that far. I just had the panel screwed to the side of the layout structure.
On my last layout, I used Tam Valley Singlets and servos for turnotu control. They have the indicator LEDs and pushbuttons on a small circuit board, and since my fascia was thing MDF, I just mounted them directly on the fascia in front of the turnout they controlled. Except for the two at the spot that was to have eventually had the penninsula attached - for temproary use I just screwed them to a piece of cardboard ripped from a box.
--Randy
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I built a frame for a piece of Masonite hardboard beneath the benchwork.
This maintains a common appearance across the benchwork and panel, and protects the edges of the panel as well.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
In the early stages of my layout I had several "control panels" where the turnout selectors were grouped on a main dispatcher's panel or "model board". My original intent was to have a full-time operator on duty but that didn't materalize.
Over the years, I found that remote turnout control was more convenient. In many areas my fascia panel is 1/4" so I use a utility knife carefully, or a roto-zip, or a hole saw to make an opening in the carpet covered fascia to clear the switches. In a few places I had to drill the 1x4 or 1x6 but I try to avoid that where possible.
An example is the single switch, with the cabinet pull to protect the switch and help prevent accidental throws, and the LED mounted in a Lexan polycarbonate "shatterproof" blank switch cover.
I use the polycarbonate ones since they are easier to drill and do not crack if I overtighten the screws. I use brad point drills which make a clean hole.
I have not gotten around to making all the labels yet. These make it convenient to unscrew from the fascia if I need to make changes to the wiring, say to add signals or such.
Where I need more switches I use a two-gang blank cover. In areas where there is a large group of turnouts I'll make a panel out of 3/16 lexan or PVC finished with a diagram of the track layout.
Hope that helps, Ed
I purchased my DPDT switches from vendors on ebay. Mini toggles generally for about a dollar each. But don'the be in a hurry. The vendors are usually somewhere in Asia so shipping took three weeks or more.
For instalation I think you need to mount them in panels made of material about 1/8" thick. I used 1/8" hard board (generic Masonite) and overlaid it with 0.020 white styrene sheet. One quarter inch holes are just right for mounting the switches. I drew track diagrams on the panels and mounted the switches at the intersections. I also put in two color LED'S to indicate the points position. A 1/8" hole is just right for 35mm LEDs.
Fellow modelers,
I need some help. I might have made this chore harder than it seems so I thought I would ask. I have 2 questions.
What type and from which manufaturer does everyone use for a DPDT switch to control a turnout machine? Im using a tortoise swtich machine.
Then the part that is sort of stumping me... My bench work is made from 3/4 inch thick furniture grade pine. How do I mount a switch through that so that the thow is useable. I have a number of ideas in my head but I think I might be making it harder that it needs to be. One idea was to get a forsner bit and cut a 1/2 inch deep hole in the back mount the switch box then drill a hole throug the rest of the way to mount the throw. That seems like a lot of work.