Lights for a Lifelike/Proto2000 E7A

[rrinker]

Assuming you open it up and make sure the bulb is oriented properly - otherwise it goes up and down.

But that's not truly how a Mars light works. They moved in a figure 8 pattern (and other types of oscillating signal lights had their own patterns). What you see coming at you downt he tracks was not a light that alternated side to side, there was a dim-fade up-bright-fade out-dim pattern as the light went both side to side and up and down around the figure 8 pattern. This blink pattern is what you get from the decoder Mars effect. Here's a video of one working

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7F25Q6LUls

When it's facing you, you see the pulsating pattern that the decoders give. Only when you are in the cab and it's shining on something right in front fo the loco do you see the pattern - which most definitely does not just sweep back and forth.

The one that comes up next for me shows a Gyralight, from the cab (well, fromw hat looks like a GoPro stuck to the hood next to the headlight housing, actually) and you can see it rotate in a circle pattern - but again, if you were ont he ground and the loco was coming toawards you, you wouldn't see that, you'd see a pattern of pulses like but not identical to the Mars light. That's why decoders have all those different settings - they all look different when watching them.

                 --Randy

 

[hobo9941]

The Mars light effect in nearly any brand decoder is better than the odd dual filament light bulb that Life Like used.

I don't understand the objections to the dual filament bulbs used by Proto. The dual bulbs actually sweep back and forth across the tracks, unlike the LEDs which just have a pulsing effect.

[hon30critter]

Missabemodeler:

I agree with Randy. You can easily install an LED and practically eliminate any possibility of the light burning out.

3mm round LEDs fit into the E7 light housing with a little space to spare. I put mine in a brass tube to block the light from glowing out the bottom of the engine. 5mm LEDs will fit if you file the lip off the bottom of the LED. If you want to model the prototypical flat front lens you can get the lens from LaserKit in their Glazing sets. 

http://www.laserkit.com/laserkit.htm

Another option if you want the flat front lens is to cut the tip off of the 5mm LED and then polish it smooth.

The easiest way is to just leave the LED tip round if you are not too concerned about being prototypically perfect.

A 1000 ohm resistor will give you lots of light with the LED.

If you are going to stay with the incandescent bulbs, then I suggest getting yourself a selection of resistors with various values from 10 ohms to 10,000 ohms. Then do a test starting with the highest value resistor and work down until you get the brightness you want. The brighter the light, the less time the bulb will last. I get my resistors from Digi-Key. They are cheap, fast and reliable, and they are in the USA.

http://www.digikey.com/

As Randy suggests, the Yellowglo LEDs are a good colour. If you go the eBay route make sure the LEDs are in the 2500 - 3500 lumin range.

Dave

[rrinker]

 If it has a Mars light (and even if it doesn't), do yourself a favor and ditch the light bulbs and use LEDs. Miniatronics Yelo-Glo LEDs are commonly available in hobby shops, though you can buy 100 from some Chinese shop on eBay for what 10 of the Miniatronics cost. You'll want a 1K resistor for each LED. The Mars light effect in nearly any brand decoder is better than the odd dual filament light bulb that Life Like used. TCS decoders especially do well with LEDs for effects.

                       --Randy

[Missabemodeler]

I am in the process of installing a TCS WOW diesel decoder in a Lifelike/Proto 2000 Southern Pacific E7. I have the sound done and it is great. Lights are a different issue. I'm using the original bulbs and wonder what value dropping resistors to use. I have tried doing lights on several Proto 2000 diesels and haven't had much success. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you