Blue painters tape.
I wrapped a small amount of tape around post and now it fits snugly in the hole and can easily be removed.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Roger
My Layout Pics
Silicone Caulk.
That is what LION uses. And yes, things re removable with it.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
A dab of hot glue will work too.
Rich
Alton Junction
RogerThatThe only remaining task is to figure out how to best secure the signal in the larger hole but allow it to be removed. I'm thinking maybe something like clay packed into the hole.
LION makes his own signals from LEDs and a 3/16 x 1/16" square sick of baswood. Him uses one resistor on the common side of the signal, you can see it on the signal mast to the left.
Him drills a 1/4" hole in the table surface and as you can see the mast extends below the surface.
The signal on the upper level has a straw stuck between the two holes as a conduit for the wires. On the table to the left of the picture, the surface is on a 'mini-table" resting on top of the table seen here. There is no access to the layer between the two surfaces, thus the need for the straw.
I fish a 1/16" brass rod through both holes to guide the straw through both surfaces. I remove the brass rod, and insert the wires through the straw.
In the case of this arrangement you can see another straw extending through the lower table surface. I use a hook to draw the wires to the opposite fascia where there are binding posts (nails) to make the solder connections neet and prevent shorts.
Anyway, that is how the LION does it, and sometimes you just need to do things differently.
Roger, I have tons of Tomar signals on my layout.
Before I install them on the layout, I do a number of things on the work bench.
First, I solder the LED wire on one leg of the resistor.
Second, I solder a 12 inch length of 22 gauge stranded wire to the other leg of the resistor to lengthen the wires for easier installation.
Third, I install a length of heat shrink tubing over the entire resistor as insulation and added strength.
Fourth, I drill a hole through the plywood surface of the layout and feed the wires through one at a time.
The hole is big enough to allow the heat shrink tubing to fit through, but small enough so that the base of the Tomar signal does not fall through.
Works like a charm.
Edit Note: There is no resistor on the white wire. But, I solder a 12 inch length of 22 gauge stranded wire to the white Tomar wire and then cover the soldered spot with heat shrink tubing. I do this because the Tomar wire is so thin that it needs to be strengthened before installing the Tomar signal on the layout.
I think the best answer is to save all possible crawling and bending. Think maintainability. i would mount terminal strips either on L girder sides, possibly plywood panels on layout legs, whatever will let you see them and reach them easily. You're best off using edge connectors with Tortoises and soldering to them before you attach them to the machine. By the same token, do all soldering before mounting the signal and drill a hole big enough to put spade connectors, resistors, etc through.
Before I mount the Tomar signal on my layout I need answers to the following:
I have drilled the hole for the signal just big enough for the tube at the bottom of the signal to fit into. However, this hole will not be big enough to pass the resistors that need to be connected to each led's wire. This gives me two choices. Should I drill the hole bigger to fit the resistors, or do I need to attempt to do my soldering under the benchwork? Or maybe a third choice? Do I install a terminal strip right next to where signal is mounted and use it to attach resistors and the wires running to the DC source and Tortoise switching terminals?
How do others complete the wiring under their benchwork? I know where to hook the wires, the resistor values to use, etc. Im interested in the method used to accomplish that.
Thanks,