Thanks to everyone, I have a more clear view now.
Topito
SMD caps are typically tan and beside it they will gave a C# on the circuit board. For example C1, C2, C3
If you are unsure, don't touch it. Caps mess with BEMF (that's what keeps our engines rolling smooth at slow speeds) But caps to the motor don't stop BEMF from working. It just doesn't make it as effective.Seeing as how 90% of us don't use BEMF because it's too much of a pain to set up it may be a moot point.
BTW: Inductors are labeled with L# (L1, L2, L3) If you remove these put a wire in their place. They also mess with BEMF.
Resistors are labeled R# (R1, R2, R3 etc...)
Diodes are labeled D# (D1, D2, D3, etc...)
Inductors and Caps were put into place mostly to comply with european regulations on noise generated by motors when the brushes make/break contact with the commutator.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Here is a pictre of the PCboard: Do you see any cap? I will check the mine.
The PCB was prepared to receive a Bachmann decoder, so I think that it is ready to replace the decoder. What do you think?
topito Wow!! The loco looks impressive. It has a lot of details. Nice Job! I want to keep the Bachmann PCboard in order to avoid do some job that is unusual for me. I don´t have electronic skill, I´m just an amateur. Is there any problem with the original Bachmann PCB? Topito
Wow!! The loco looks impressive. It has a lot of details. Nice Job!
I want to keep the Bachmann PCboard in order to avoid do some job that is unusual for me. I don´t have electronic skill, I´m just an amateur. Is there any problem with the original Bachmann PCB?
The only issues are, cut any caps. Some Bachmann locos have yellow blob capos. Some a surface mount on the PC board. They will have a C prefix.
The two inductors are a moot point with no caps. Caps and inductors form a tuned circuit. No caps, no tuned circuit.
Some Bachmann had a dim light because Bachmann seems to use about 2k for the LED resistor. I measured a few.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
As in the photo above you can see that I stuck a standard speaker in the backhead.
Thanks David: I agree with you, I meassures the space inside the tank and it will fit perfectly.
Which size of Zimo sugar cube did you use? The space between the backhead and the motor is a "semi round" space behind the motor? The speaker will sound inside this very concealed space?
Which Keep Alive did you install?
best regards
Thanks Dave: great sound in your Critter, it´s an HO narrow gauge? Thanks for the links. I´ll seriously consider a Zimo. Which size do you reccomend?
Best regards
topito
Are you familiar with so called 'sugar cube' speakers, also commonly referred to as 'iPhone5 speakers'? If not, they are worth investigating if you don't have a lot of space for a speaker. Here is some information about them:
http://sbs4dcc.com/sugarcubespeakers.html
http://sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/sugarcubespeakernotes.html
http://sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/wiringmultispeakers.html
The sound is quite impressive for their size. It is often possible to mount two iPhone5 speakers, or even four, but if you have that much space available you might be better off with larger speaker with better base sounds.
This critter has two iPhone5 speakers in it. It also has a Loksound Select Micro decoder:
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thanks: The other option is a LokSound V4.0 Micro. It will fit better because it's smaller than the Tsunami 750. . The problem now is to chose a speaker and preserve the rear light system.
It's tooling isn't that much different from the 0-6-0T.
Attach the decoder and capacitor to the roor. I used the smallest speakers Sountraxx offers and stuck it in the nose of the boiler.this is the speaker in the boiler
Here is the PC board with attached Bachmann decoder. Do one wire at a time. The LED resistor is on the PC board.
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_68_606&products_id=9460
I would recommend a TCS WoW decoder or a LokSound decoder.
You must be aware, the Tsunami design is about ten years old and the 750 is temp sensitive which might not be important in this loco.
TCS sound is fairly new. The LokSound seem to have better running characteristics from post I am seeing and don't have temp issues. I have run the 750 and LokSound Micros.
I don't have one of those locomotives to know what the circuit board looks like, but it should be possible to solder directly to it PROVIDED you have lots of experience in soldering to a PC board AND you have the proper soldering iron and other tools for such work.
The next hurdle will be finding space to install a speaker and baffle.
Hi everyone: I want to replace the original decoder (a very cheap decoder) in my Porter with a Tsunami 750 Sound decoder.
My question is: Can I solder the cables of the Tsunami 750 directly to the original PC board of the Bachmann? Can I have any problem doing this?
Thanks for the replies