You know I have 3 of these decoders preinstalled and they are all dead. I would say it's a design problem. I know there was several revisions by NCE.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Yeah. I'm afraid it is dead or was defective when I got it. I have had this decoder for several years and have just now decided to install it. I wired up a regular decoder and the engine runs fine. I wonder if NCE had some problems with this decoder since they no longer make it. Anyway, thanks for everyones help!!
anthony61 I have checked and re-checked my work and everything has been done as per instructions. I have checked the motor with a meter to make sure it is isolated from the frame and it is. One thing that puzzles me is that I am showing a connection between the frame of the motor and the top brush cap. This seems like it would create a short because the screw that mounts the circuit board to the weight and frame supposedly is what is making the connection to the bottom brush cap. I tried turning the motor over just to make sure I had the correct orientation but this causes a short when you install the original board. With the motor installed in the opposite direction, it runs fine with the original board. But when you install the decoder it runs wide open with no control from the throttle. Thanks for everyones help and I will post again if I find the problem. I have contacted NCE to see if they can check the decoder for me.
I have checked and re-checked my work and everything has been done as per instructions. I have checked the motor with a meter to make sure it is isolated from the frame and it is. One thing that puzzles me is that I am showing a connection between the frame of the motor and the top brush cap. This seems like it would create a short because the screw that mounts the circuit board to the weight and frame supposedly is what is making the connection to the bottom brush cap. I tried turning the motor over just to make sure I had the correct orientation but this causes a short when you install the original board. With the motor installed in the opposite direction, it runs fine with the original board. But when you install the decoder it runs wide open with no control from the throttle. Thanks for everyones help and I will post again if I find the problem. I have contacted NCE to see if they can check the decoder for me.
If there is a short between the motor frame and the TOP brush cap, the motor is upside-down. The brush cap that is insualted from the motor frame is the top one. The metal screw through the decoder intot he top of the motor is the connection for the bottom brush, and the blob of solder underneath the decoder contacts the top brush cap. If it just runs away in this orientation, the motor drive is fried on the decoder. Installing the motor with the brush cap that is connected to the frame on top results in a dead short across the motor drive - that's probably what fried it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
First always try to follow the directions, if you do not have them get on Mfg. web site NCE and you will find them. Also check out this web site http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/HO_Search/search.html
most loco's are listed here, they usually only use TCS decoders but it will help you in finding any special instructions on your loco. Also, always, always test your install on the programming track, safer, try reading back CVs and even changing some as most of the time this will tell you if there might be a problem with your install. Good luck in the future. Jim
You should add some additional kapton tape under the top weight piece, otherwise you run the risk of the same sort of problem that the Proto 2000 versions do, in that it it derails and a wheel is forced into the frame, track power is applied to the motor outputs, which means fried decoder.
You do not need any jumpers. The solder blob should press on the top brush and the metal screw connects to the motor frame, which is connected to the bottom brush - make sure you do not have the motor upside down!
If it runs away at top speed as soon as track power is applied, it may be too late, you may have fried the motor drive. Putting the motor in upside down is a dead short across the motor output - that's why they say in the instructions to mark it.
I went back and re-isolated the motor. Used the plastic screw in the bottom of the motor. I re-installed the decoder with a jumper wire soldered to the top brush post and the solder point on the bottom of the board. I used the metal screw to mount the decoder back to the weight and frame. Now when I set it on the track the front light lights and the engine runs away at top speed. no control of the engine. switching directions on the throttle has no effect on the speed or the lights. I put it on the programming track and it seems to be resetting the decoder, but I get the same results when I put it back on the track. Should I be using the metal screw to secure the decoder? If I take this screw out, it doesn't run at all.
Yes, same decoder, if missing the small, short brass wiper then best to run a jumper wire. Read this post, esp. one mid way down, by WM. http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=66600 might help, also did you use proper screw in bottom of motor?
It is the D version, but the tab looks like it had broken off. I put the Kafton tape on the bottom of the motor, but I'm not sure everything is isolated. Going back and check. I will make a jumper wire for the connection on the top motor brush and see what happens. Thanks for your help.
I just looked at a new decoder, been a while since I installed one, but, do you have the one marked Rev D side up, if so on the other side middle of the decoder there should be a spot of solder with with a short pc. strip of copper? contact that should be your motor contact point. If not there then you will have to make one, are you sure you have it placed correctly? Installed Kapton tape on the bottom of motor?
I am installing a NCE ATLS4 in a Atlas S1 switcher. I followed all the instructions, but no motor power. It looks like to me that their should be some connections from the motor to the board but I dont have any. There is a dot of solder on the bottom of the board that liiks like it should connect with the top post of the motor like the factory board did. Should there be a connection between these to points?