Hello,
I am hardwiring a PROTO 2000 GP60 and it seems to be wired differently than Athearns and others that have the traditional black pick up wires on one side and red pick ups wires on the other.This one has black wires picking up on one side and one red wire connected to the weight.
Here is my question. Does the red wire to the weight go to the red wire on the decoder? Black pick ups to the appropriate black wire? I wonder why they did it this way. Does it pick up any less? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You,
SB
Red=right wheels and black=left wheels.If the weight is conductive with right wheels,then it's OK.If not,you can either wire black to red or match the wires and change the direction in CV29.
This GP60 did have the number board light problem as well as a short in the plug that is why I am having to hardwire it. I have taken some of the black paint off of the number board plastic guides next to the headlight so that light will shine through both using an LED. I am stumped though by the red wire.
Thanks
SB,
Check out the info in this link:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/HO_P2K_GP-60.htm
Take Care!
Frank
Frank,
Thanks, that is what i needed. The red wire went to pin 8 so that is the pick up for the right side.
Hello All,
After upgrading many DC locos to DCC if the pre-NMRA standards wiring doesn’t make sense; either by color coding or possible electrical path, I replace any possible damaging circuitry when in question.
I'm currently re-motoring two locos. One is an Athearn which uses the frame as an electrical conduit and one that had generic black wires from the wheel pickups to the motor.
On this particular Athearn I bypassed the frame and connected the pickup wires directly to the trucks, thus isolating the frame electrically. On the other; because it has a plastic, frame I simply replaced the stock wiring configuration to match the NMRA color coding.
I'll admit I haven't had any experience with Proto locomotives. I would, as has been suggested, trace the electrical path through the weight with a multi-meter and determine it's purpose. From there you can determine whether you want to use this existing circuitry or bypass it with wiring. I would be cautious on relying on visual inspection only.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"