No need to complicate things - just leave them as they are, powered from the AC terminals of your existing power pack. No matter what DCC system you get, it's awkward switching between train running mode and switch throwing mode and back.
Two improvements you could make - if you don't already have one, use a capacitor discharge power supply which will a) make sure the machines always snap solidly and b) prevent them from burning out if a button gets stuck, and second, either use individual pushbuttons or relocate the existing controls from a central control panel to around the layout near the turnouts they control so you can walk around and follow your train without having to run back to a central panel all the time.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
GMG Here are 2 questions: 1) Initially, can I remove the wiring from the turnouts, as well as, the mechnical components that make them remote? 2) In the future can I convert these turnouts to DCC? If so, how is it done?
Here are 2 questions:
1) Initially, can I remove the wiring from the turnouts, as well as, the mechnical components that make them remote?
2) In the future can I convert these turnouts to DCC? If so, how is it done?
Yes, the switch machines can be removed from the turnouts. Atlas turnouts have 2 screws but I'm not sure about the others. As far as converting them to DCC, the Atlas turnouts are momentary contact, dual coil operated, so you need stationary decoders that can provide momentary power.
I was lucky enough to find some Lenz Ls110's which can be programmed for either constant or momentary power to power my turnouts.
But I also agree that changing from train control to find and activate an accessory decoder and then switching back to your loco seems like too much of a pain. Most of the time, I just manually throw the switches..it just seems easier....good luck with it.
Bob Berger, C.O.O. N-ovation & Northwestern R.R. My patio layout....SEE IT HERE
There's no place like ~/ ;)
Sometimes things get really complicated when they don't have to be.
When I switched to DCC I didn't replace or modify my switches. I'm not going to trash perfectly good Shinohara switches.
The switches are powered at the throat only. The main route and the diverging route are isolated from the switch and have separate power feeds to them. I have been running the switches like this for almost 20 years. The conversion to DCC required no changes to the switches or wiring.
Any new 'DCC freindly' are installed the same way.
South Penn
If you have an OHM meter you can check the switches to see if there is a short. If the OHM meter with a probe on the frog and the other probe on each of the switch rails around the frog. Flip the switch to both positions run the resistance check on the rails and frog. If there is no resistance shown between the frog and the rails you should not have a short. The old atlas switches that I have on my N scale layout have plastic frogs and wiring that would not cause a short. I don't know about the other manufacturers switches but you can check them as noted above with an OHM meter. The OHM meter will also let you check the solenoid screw contacts to the rail to see if there is resistance. There shouldn't be any resistance. I still use the DC solenoid on the atlas switches hooked to a DC power pack. The atlas solenoid is isolated from the track. My layout is running around 400 feet of flex track with 20 year old Atlas switches and I don't have any shorts. The rail jointers may be a problem with the sectional track. I have run 12 ga. wire one black and one white as feeders that run the length of each power block and back to the control panel as it was DC before I converted it to DCC. Model Railroader was the source for the 12 gauge feeder wires. Sound equiped locomotives require more power than DCC only and thus show the power problems of bad connections on the layout more. There may be a hesitation going through an insulated frog switch which I don't notice with 4 to 6 locomotives in a consist pulling a train. Note: I'm changing out the atlas switches with Peco switches. It just takes time and money to change them. There are ways to deal with the non-insulated metal frog per Model Railroader's David Popp on MR Video Plus (rehab my railroad). This requires a new switch machine or replacing the switch with an insulated frog switch. I hope this helps you.
Mike raises a good point. does the OP want to know if the turnouts will function with a DCC setup as far as will they short out or not?, or does he want to operate the turnout using DCC as the source of the power to operate the turnout.
Welcome aboard!
One common misconception about DCC control of turnouts is that you have to use DCC for your turnouts. You don't. In fact, many of us use control panels, just like we always did on DC.
Most of my turnouts are run that way, but I do have half a dozen that I run with "stationary decoders," the DCC term for the gadgets that run turnouts. I did this mostly for the convenience of not having to do long turnout-to-panel wire runs, but also because I wanted to try the technology. I've used both the NCE Switch-It (2 turnouts, Tortoise machines only) and the Digitrax DS44 (4 turnouts, Tortoise machines only.) There are different decoders for twin-coil machines, so be sure you get the right ones. I'm very happy with the performance of these.
Each method of control has its advantages. I still prefer the control panels. I prefer the simplicity of running the turnouts from the panel and the trains from the throttle. Having to temporarily relinquish control of the train, remember the turnout number, punch buttons and then return to the train just seems like more effort.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
The switch machines on the Atlas turnouts are definitely removable. I has been many years since I did so but if I recall correctly there is one screw to remove, after which the machine can be popped off. I am not familiar with the Bachmann or Model Power turnouts but the chances are good they can be removed, too. Close inspection should lead you to a removal method.
As noted above you can use stationary decoders to activate the turnouts but you will still need a switch motor. Tortoises are the common answer but some folks are using servos. As for DCC compatibility of the turnouts, the Atlas ones will work without modification. Again, due to my unfamiliarity of the others you will have to do some testing. If not, simply cutting gaps in the two inner diverging rails and installing power feeders on all three rail pairs will make them DCC compatible.
GMG2) In the future can I convert these turnouts to DCC? If so, how is it done?
You may be referring to what is called "DCC friendly." What that means is a turnout set up to minimze the possibility of shorts as the loco moves through them. Many ways to do this, from factory re-design for new ones to various hacks of older turnouts to better adapt them.
That said, in most cases, with most locomotives, you can use them as they are just fine on DCC. Don't know how many you're talking about, but just start running your locos on DCC and see how they work. If a particualr loco shorts passing through a particular turnout, then start investigating why and correct as needed. You'll likely find that most turnouts will not need modification.
Here's a handy reference: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
Another aspect of this is if you used the turnout to help route power into a siding or spur. When you through the turnout back to normal, that attached line then goes dead, which is often what you want on DC. With DCC you control the loco not the track power, so no need for that. You can usually just cut a gap past the frog into that section of track and attach the frog-side rail directly to track power. Once you have a little practice, you can do this in 5 minutes or less with many tracks.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
The following website was provided to me when i was looking to do the same thing in HO, but the principles should be the same in N:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
1) If the turnouts provide for removing the mechanical components, then yes, you can remove them. But you may want to just remove the wiring and leave the solenoids in place. See #2.
2) You would use appropriate stationary decoders to drive the turnout actuating device (solenoid, Tortoise, etc.).
Hi,
First time poster and newbie.
About 20 years ago I started an N scale layout. Only got to lay the roadbed and sectional track. Never completed nailing the track down nor did any wiring.
Have restarted working on the layout.
I will going with DCC.
The turnouts I have on the layout are from Atlas, Bachmann, and Model Power.
They are all remote turnouts, so I am guessing they all have a solenoid.
If any more accomplished hobbyists have any suggestions, please post them here.
I am very anxious to get my wiring done and start using my new DCC engine.
Thanks in advance for any answers, thoughts, and recommendations.