selector To the OP, if it brings you relief, as you define it, or some pleasure and happiness, I figure any such 80 bucks is well worth the investment. Any day. As the others have offered, though, the device is largely redundant. Those of us who use DCC systems can do everything it does, and with at least as much speed and efficiency. It's like having two spare tires; okay, but....really?
To the OP, if it brings you relief, as you define it, or some pleasure and happiness, I figure any such 80 bucks is well worth the investment. Any day.
As the others have offered, though, the device is largely redundant. Those of us who use DCC systems can do everything it does, and with at least as much speed and efficiency. It's like having two spare tires; okay, but....really?
You're right, 2 spare tires. I get it.
Turns out though that my other spare was (metaphorically) flat and I needed this one to keep me going.
When I learn more DCC stuff, both spares will be full. And perhaps I'll feel experienced enough to eschew the smaller spare.
Thanks all for your thoughts, suggestions and comments.
MC
WP Lives
Stevert You're right, we DCC "purists", or at least anyone seriously involved with DCC, have no use for something like this because it's way overpriced for what it can do. For example, you can get a Digitrax PR3 for about $70 street price, and use it as a stand-alone programmer. You don't need a Digitrax DCC system, or even any DCC system at all, to use it in that way. And besides just changing the address, it can program all CV's on literally any decoder, even the sometimes hard-to-program sound decoders. Plus, for Digitrax users, and for anyone with a stand-alone LocoNet for signaling etc, it can also be used as a LocoNet-to-PC interface. Much more capability than the BLI box, and for a few dollars less...
You're right, we DCC "purists", or at least anyone seriously involved with DCC, have no use for something like this because it's way overpriced for what it can do.
For example, you can get a Digitrax PR3 for about $70 street price, and use it as a stand-alone programmer.
You don't need a Digitrax DCC system, or even any DCC system at all, to use it in that way. And besides just changing the address, it can program all CV's on literally any decoder, even the sometimes hard-to-program sound decoders.
Plus, for Digitrax users, and for anyone with a stand-alone LocoNet for signaling etc, it can also be used as a LocoNet-to-PC interface.
Much more capability than the BLI box, and for a few dollars less...
I made that sound bad, saying "purists." I apologize, that was inconsiderate of me. What I was trying to say was, being new to DCC and not yet understanding a lot of the terminology and/or procedures, I like what this does FOR ME.
I have an extra eighty bucks now'n'again and that's what I chose to spend it on. The further invested I get into the electronic parts of the hobby, I'm sure, I'll find less use for it. For now, it works. I may otherwise dispose of it as my knowledge increases.
I have yet to learn ANYTHING about sound, decoders and their programming, installing sound in locos/rolling stock and even basic CV programming for speed matching, et.al.
To all, thank you. I guess the #1 printed on the box was placed by mistake, which was my original question anyway.
Again, sorry for my indiscretion.
Mark C.
Oroville, CA
More so than just alternative devices, this $80 box doesn't do anything I cannot do with just my DCC system and no extra cost items. All of the current DCC systems have easy address programming where you don't have to calculate values for CV 17, 18 , or 29, they do it for you, which seems to be one of the big points they are using to sell this thing. Even the idea that you might use DC at home but need to program the address to run the loco at your club, which uses DCC - what DCC club doesn't have a program track to configure members' locos?
To each his own, but I have better places to spend $80 on my layout.
Looks from the picture that the 1 mark is on the lower right/upper left. This is completely backwards. If it works, then the label is wrong, because if pin 1 internally was connected where it is labeled, that would connect the motor to the track power and the track power to the motor - instantly frying the decoder. The pinout of the 8 pin connection allows you to flip it - which connects black to red and red to black on the track side (no consequences, since 'polarity' does not matter) and grey to orange and orange to grey on the motor side (reversing the direction of the motor). No harm there. But if the pins are completely transposed as the label would indicate, you connect the orange to the red, the red to the orange, the black to the grey, and the grey to the black - feeding track power to the motor outputs and the motor outputs to the track power. Feeding power in to the motor outputs is what fries decoders. Since this doesn't happen, internally the address changer is wired properly and just the label is wrong.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I see absolutely no advantage to this device and one big disadvantage - - - $80.
As to why BLI put the number 1 where it did, who can say.
Rich
Alton Junction
It makes no difference which way a decoder is plugged into the 8-pin socket. If one is plugged in backwards into a locomotive, the only adverse effect will be that the motor runs backwards. Turn the plug around, and the motor runs correctly.
I bought one of these bad boys...and I like it...a lot. You DCC purists (I've heard) don't care for it nor (say) have a use for it. I think it works great. But I'm new at DCC. So there.
Anyway, to my question. If one looks at the face of the device, one sees an eight-pin NMRA compliant socket for reading and programming standard 8-pin decoders. It can also program various other decoders with a variety of harnesses intended for connecting other form factor decoders in 8-pin socket equipped DCC-ready locomotives or accessories.
Oh yeah, my question. While 8-pin decoders have the number 1 pin in the upper left (or lower right, as the case may be) why does the address changer have a number "1" printed in what would be the lower left position of the 8-pin socket?
Thusly:
Now, mind you, I've made it work by putting the "1" pin on the lower row (lower right) without issue. Haven't tried the other way around yet.
But bein' as I can't find a reason on any website nor have I called BLI yet, do any of you masterminds have a clue...or a real answer?
They got me stumped. (However easy that may be...)
MC, Oroville