Just a followup to my post with a big thank you to BLI support.
After contacting BLI on how to remove the shell from the frame I mentioned in a thank you reply that one of the rear side hand rails that had to be removed to remove the shell was seated so securely that I had to use needle nose pliers to remove the top end of it and in doing so the end of the hand rail broke off in the cab mount.
While the broken hand rail was not because of a warranty covered manufacturing defect, when I asked for a link to the specific part number to purchase a couple of sets of the rear hand rails for future need (I have two of the NW2's) BLI offered a replacement of the broken hand rail at no charge for now and I could order the extra sets directly through the parts department.
This was my first contact with BLI support since I bought the (2) NW2's and suffice to say BLI's response was above and beyond IMO. And accordingly wanted to post back here to give them due credit.
Glad to hear that you got the problem solved. Decoders can be strange animals. I have had decoders go dead on me, and I always wonder if one somehow got fried. But it required no more than a reset in every instance.
Those shells fit on their frames like skin tight clothing.
Rich
Alton Junction
Thanks guys for the suggestions... appreciated. I'm good to go now. Removing the shell isn't for the faint of heart. To say the 4 tabs hold the body shell to the frame snugly is an understatement. I did get a reply from BLI support advising to sqeeze the shell inward while pressing the tabs inward - which evolved into a comedy trying to keep one tab released while working on the opposide side tab with large fat fingers. Really appreciate the toothpick suggestion to help prevent the tabs from closing again.... have it written in the BLI user manual as a future reminder.
To the problem, I had to do a hard reset of the decoder to restore operation because it wasn't being powered where I could do a software reset to address 3.
Suffice to say this process requires somewhat of a 3 armed paper hanger effort. To do a hard reset requires placing the engine on the track with power off, then while depressing a miniature micro switch (reset) button on the decoder turn track power on, program the engine to address 3 where the engine will nudge forward if the reset worked - which it did - all the while holding the reset button depressed. From this point I reprogrammed the engine to a 4 digit address, rechecked for operation and snapped the shell back on.
I have no idea what happened to cause the decoder to shut down completely. The only thing I can think of is I inadvertantly bumped the Emergency Stop button on my Digitrax controller.... but even so I don't understand how this would required a hard reset of the decoder.
Oh well.... another learning lesson in the world of DCC.
Thanks again guys for your suggestions and comments!!
Meant to add that part too - use the toothpick to pry, not a screwdriver, then you won't scratch the paint or the plasic.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker The flattened type (not round) toothpicks are a big help with latches like this - keeps the one you just released from clicking shut as you work on the next one.
The flattened type (not round) toothpicks are a big help with latches like this - keeps the one you just released from clicking shut as you work on the next one.
The decoder on a Paragon 2 can be reset to factory default by programming CV8 to a value of 8. In other words, CV8=8. Once you do that, if the decoder is functioning properly, you can get the loco to move by accessing the short address to 3. If that gets the loco moving, then you can re-program the long address and other desired CV values. If the reset does not work, then you have some investigative work to do.
The instruction booklet says changing CV8 to 8 will reset the decoder.
I have the same loco and removed the shell to install a decoder. I am away from home and the loco at this time but IIRC, was able to remove the shell by working the tabs very, very carefully. On the other hand, are you sure you are unable to reset the decoder electronically, say in OPS mode, without removing the shell?
Dante
Apologies if this is in the wrong forum.... didn't find anything with a search on how to remove the shell from the motor frame.
For whatever reason my less than 2 year old DCC Paragon 2 BLI EMD NW2 just quit running. I'm able to run another Paragon 2 BLI EMD NW2 on the same piece of track within 4 inches of the dead engine.
I was going to try a manual decoder reset per BLI instructions but I can't figure out how to remove the body shell to get at the reset button on PC board. There are (4) compression tabs on the shell that fit onto the frame but the tabs are so tight I don't see how they can released w/o damaging them and/or the trucks and the paint job.
BLI's website "diesel maintenance" video only applies to a full size diesel including how to remove the body shell.
(Just to mention removing the couplers doesn't release the shell from the frame.)
Can anyone point me to a "how to remove a DCC BLI EMD NW2 shell from the frame" ???