This is how I mount the tortise AFTER drilling a 3/8 hole either under the center of the throwbar or under it but outside the turnout under the small hole. I premount the Tortise to 3/8" plywood pads that have double face carpet tape on the other side (see photo). Once I have the Tortise approximately where I want it I remove the backing tape and stick it up in place. I don't press it too hard so I can move it a little if needed. Once I am satisfied with the operation I press it very firmly in place and then add 2 wood screws in the predrilled holes. I have 32 mounted this way and once in place they won't go anywhere.
I also agree with removing a turnout to drill the clearance hole for the Tortise fulcrum wire (I use .039" wire, not the thin one supplied).
On one of my turnouts I cut a piece of .010" styrene with a slit in it to fit around the turnout wire and it covered an exceptionally large clearance hole. I painted the styrene black and it has some balast on it, but it moves with the wire and keeps the hole covered and un-noticed.
-Bob
PS: The red paint line on the Tortise marks the No. 1 terminal so I know which way to install the blue push-on connector.
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
I used Peco and Shinohara turnouts. I used a fine tipped permanent marker in the hole in the throwbar to mark the road bed where the hole is to drilled. I then remove the turnout and use a 5/16" drill bit to drilll the hole. Even if I plan to have the turnout as a manual throw I still drill the hole just incase i want to add a Tortoise down the road. I then install the turnout over the hole.
The instruction sheet that comes with the Tortoise has a template for locating the mounting holes. I glue this template to 1/4" thick piece of plywood. I then drill the mounting hole out with a 1/16" bit and the throwrod hole with the 5/16" bit.
I used the 5/16" drill bit (or the same size dowel) to align the template with the hole drilled in the roadbed. I mark the four mounting holes with an awl. This marks the locations for the mounting screws. I install the screws one side leaving enough of a gap to slip the tortoise in. I then install the second set of screws on the otherside to hold the tortoise in place.
This template places the tortoise perfectly every time.
The last thing I do is install the actual throwrod. I use 0.039" steel piano wire.
I use a long piece of steel wire for the throwrod. I bend the end of it so that doesn't drop all the way through when I am installing it.
I put the wire through the hole in the throwbar and drop it down to the switch machine. I then thread it the green fulcrum bar. I then bend the end to shape it like a diamond and use the stock screw to attach it to the tortoise throw mechanism. I don't try to push the wire into the black throw bar.
For turnouts that are already installed, there are two options. One option is drill a hole off to the side and mount the tortoise and bend the wire to match. The other option is to drill from underneath up to the throwbar. What I do in this case is use a stop on a regular drill bit. I use 1/2" subroadbed (plywood) with another 1/4" roadbed (cork or in my case flexxbed) on top of that. I set the stop up on the drill bit at 1/2". I drill until a reach the stop. I then use an exacto knife to remove the cork or flexxbed underneath the throwbar.
What I have learned from this is that it is much easier to drill the hole ahead of time and not use it than trying to add one later.
I liked the suggestion about the thin sheet around the hole to prevent ballast and such from falling in. I will have to work that in!
Colorado Front Range Railroad: http://www.coloradofrontrangerr.com/
I also have installed nearly a hundred of the little green boxes and have developed a tried-and-true method that works for me.
Almost all of my machines are centered under the throwbar. My early Shinohara turnouts came with a hole there which was actually a rivet through the brass tie-bar. This was on the power-routing version of the turnouts.
When Walthers produced the first "DCC Friendly" models the center hole disappeared so I either used a pin vice to make a new hole OR on a few occasions I would use one of the rivet holes where the point attached. Newer code 83 all-live turnouts have the hole provided again.
Once I find the exact location of the turnout I slip a small 1" x 1-1/2" Post-It note paper under the throw bar. I center the points, sometimes using toothpicks to be sure they don't move and then use a push-pin to mark a small hole in the Post-It paper which is stuck to the cork. I guess masking tape would work, too, but I have hundreds of the tiny Post-Its.
Using a brad point bit I carefully drill straight down through the paper and through the cork roadbed, pull the paper off the bit, then finish the hole usually with a 3/8 bit. Sometimes I'll even use a 7/16" but I don't worry about an over-sized hole because...
When I install the turnout I slip a piece of "slippery plastic" Mylar under the throw bar that I have cut a slot in with a #11 Exacto blade. This keeps ballast and stuff from falling through the large hole and also provides a slippery surface for the throw bar to slide on. I make the slot just large enough for the wire to pass through and long enough to allow for the throw.
When I install the Tortoise I center the wire (I use heavier .035 also) and bring it up through the throwbar (I leave the wire about an inch longer than needed so it is easier to locate) and I still have the toothpicks keeping the points centered.
As others have mentioned I'll use a bit of double stick tape, I have some super heavy stuff like duct tape but the Scotch brand is good, too, and once I'm satisfied with the position I'll use two or three #4 x 3/8 pan-head screws to hold the Tortoise in place. Then clip off the excess wire with heavy wire cutters holding the loose end with pliers so it doesn't fly away.
On rare occasions where there is bench work in the way, or if I need to mount several Tortii in close proximity, I will use the outer hole on the throwbar and I have two or three that I have rigged up remote actuators using wire through brass tube or teflon tube since it was impossible to mount the machine any closer.
There's some good ideas mentioned above, I'm just adding what works well for me.
Have fun, Ed
Have done over a hundred Tortoises. I won't risk retrofit either; if not a new turnout install, I'll remove and replace it.
I find it helpful to try the machine centering as above, with Scotch double-back tape (no cheap off-brand will do) allowing me to work alone; it will hold the machine during testing the spring force on each side and mounting screws. When the centering is good, I install two diagonal screws, leaving the tape in place. An assistant topside can help thread the hole and test the centering; otherwise I have to pin the points in center position at the start, and duck up and under. I also replace the original wire with .032, as it seems to work better.
Hal
To retrofit - look on Elmer's page, linked in his signature, under the tips section, for his servo mounting. This same style of linkage will work with a Tortoise, and does not require you to drill anything under the turnout, thereby avoiding damage.
On my previous layout, I had one servo installed sim,ilar to this, because the throwbar was too close to a joist. Even the tiny servo wouldn;t fit - a Tortoise was definitely out. So I made the upside-down J shaped link and mounted the servo off center where there was plenty of room. Even for new installs going forward, i will probably use this type of linkage. No large holes anywhere, and it does allow you to go back and add the point motor after the fact, in case something changes between initially installing the turnout and adding the motors - particularly since I will be using Peco and won;t need to install motors immediately.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Retrofitting a Tortoise can be a pita. Better to take up the switch, drill the hole and replace the switch. it is not all that hard to do, even considering that I solder my rail joiners.
I use a Dremel tool to cut the existing rail joiners, use a soldering iron to remove the remains of the joiners. I then mark and drill the hole directly under the throwbar using a 3/8 to 1/2 inch bit. I replace the switch, resolder the rail joiners and then mount the Tortoise from below. LION does not use skrews. Him use a glob of silicone caulk. Him centers the actuator motor by hand (carefully) and then thread the actuator rod up through the hole in the table, and more carefully yet through the drawbar. I am told that it *can* be done without cussing at it. The motor should stay in place, but if it does not you can tape it with duck tape or prop it up with sticks.
Now there seems to be a cat at my window howling at me. perhaps I should let her in.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I drill a 3/8 hole under the center of the throwbar. That means that you have to plan ahead and locate exactly where the turnout will be mounted, then drill the hole first, and then mount the turnout. I also paint the roadbed under the turnout and INSIDE the hole black so it won't be seen after the turnout is mounted.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I drill underneath, as it better hides the hole and prevents the ballast from dribbling through it once set. If you're retrofitting, sometimes there is no choice othern than taking up the track. I have done a few where I used a flush cutting bit (a Forstner is one example) and drilled from below with the total thickness marked on the bit with some tape to let yuou know when getting close to break through.
If you can slip a thin metal sheet underneath, it will help protect the turnout from the bit breakthrough, though it's still a dicey thing to do.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
where do you like to drill the hole for the throw rod? Directl under the middle of the turnout or off to one side? I would like to hide the 1/4" hole under the turnout. But that means drilling a hole in the middle of the throw bar.
Suggestions please!
Craig North Carolina