Need all the knowlege of the forum here !!
I am building a new layout which will be a 3 level shelf. I have an NCE sytem with a 5amp booster, I want to have each level seperated into blocks by means of EB1 breakers,(i dont have the need for more boosters)
My question is how do I wire the breaker for each level without another booster attached?
Normally the wires from the booster goes into the breaker and then back out to the main bus, but if my bus runs continuously up all three levels how do the breakers get wired into the bus?
Do I cut the bus at the appropriate spot and put on the breaker and then reattach the bus to the other end of the breaker? I have no idea !!! need help ! Whats the best way I should go .
Thanks in advance all you knowledgable train guru's
Tom from Down Under
Run a single buss up the three levels. Tap a circuit breaker into the buss at each level. Then feed each level from the output of its circuit breaker with a secondary buss.
Is there anyway you can post a drawing of that
Another way to do it is to keep all of the circuit breakers in a central location and run the separate bus wires to each level of your layout.
I also have a PH-Pro 5 amp system, and all of my power districts are on a single level, but the concept is the same with multiple levels.
Rich
Alton Junction
ok I will have them in one location but I dont undrstand how the three connect together to go to the other levels
So does that mean the wires from the booster go into the EB1 at one end ? then how do I connect the second and third EB1s ? Do I just run like a jumper wire or something across to the next.
Im really lost on how they are wired in together to control each level and how the power buss comes out from the EB1s to go to each level.
sorry for being stupid at this
Yes, just string wires from the output of the booster to each EB-1. It's like the track bus, where you have the wires under the track and multiple feeders come down and connect to the buss. Run a short bus from the booster and connect each EB-1 to it. The output of each EB-1 gets run to whatever part of the layout its going to supply.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Good morning Tom from Melbourne, FL.
If I am understanding the question, I beleive I can help. I also have an NCE Power Cab system on an HO layout with a 5 amp booster.
The layout has 3 isolated sections; first mainline, second mainline and then the yard. Remembering that each is isolated and with its own buss and drop downs from those buses.
The NCE power initially has one input into a system of 3 PSX circuit breaker boards from Tonys Train Exchange. each board is connected to each other on the input but the outputs are isolated and go to each buss. This has worked wonderfully for my layout. Tonys Train.com is on the internet and you are able to call them at 800.978.3472. I did spend a considerable amount of time talking with them, NCE and local individual clubs that actually all used the same system I am talking about. The home work really paid off. I hope this helps.
John
I understand this as you want to divide your single booster output to 3 "sub-districts" sharing that output, each sub-district having a circuit breaker board.
You do this by dividing the booster output wire pair into 3 "parallel" branches, then feeding those 3 wire pairs to the 3 circuit board inputs. This wiring can simply be wires soldered together to make the 4-way (booster output and 3 circuit breaker inputs) branch. The 3 circuit breaker outputs are the beginning of your 3 busses to the 3 sub-districts.
I also have 3 sub-districts powered by a single 5A booster, so I can suggest an easy approach. In the photo below, you will see the black & white booster output wires going to the terminal strips on the backboard in the left of the photo. The terminal strips make it easy to replace anything later if needed. Note from those terminal strips the booster output continues as 3 sets of wires into the left side of 3 subdistrict circuit breaker boards. The output from the right side of the 3 circuit boards is the beginning of the 3 sub-district busses. Note that I ran these to optional terminal strips on the shelf, where the buss wires to the 3 sections continue outward. I included these terminal strips as the connections to the circuit boards were tricky (fat wire going into too small holes) so I wanted to be able to easily install or remove the circuit boards with some input and output wiring attached. Note I used soldered connectors on the wiring at the terminal strips for easy, firm connections, rather than twisting wire around the terminal strip screw.
NOTE: You can locate the components where you like but the flow path (diagram) needs to be as described. Suggest ypou sketch out the electrical schematic, then mark it up with where you decide to locate the components, where you will have options. As an example, the booster output wire can be long if you like to the takeoff to one or more circuit boards, which shortens the buss wire lengths.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Hi Paul.
thats perfect and your picture explained it to me easily of what I have to do , and I think I will do it just as you have (if you dont mind).
Just to be sure I know exactly..... do I solder 3 pairs of wires onto the wire coming out from the booster to make the 3 connections to the EB1s ?
I would like to know what guage wire you have used it looks nice and heavy. How big is your layout ? mine is built in a 9x6mtr shed with the shelves all the way around.
Thanks to everyone else who gave their help as well. I really love this forum its so good to have all these modellers with so much experience to share, I hope to be as good as all of you here one day.
Tomcat,
Yes, you will want to add 3 pair of wires to your booster output pair to split that and create the 3 input pairs that go to the circuit board inputs. You can see my black & white booster wire is split at the left side terminal blocks (one for black, one for white), which eliminates the need for soldering wires together. If you want soldered wires (add insulating electrical tape around the joints) you can run your booster wire to near the circuit board inputs, cut it to length and create your branches there. Instead of soldering, you could twist the 4 wires (black or white) together and secure them with a wire nut, but I advise against that, as a bit of looseness of any wire could become a problem, and this is a critical joint. I really like the terminal strip use if you don't mind sending a few $ there. In the U.S., I get them from online All Electronics.
For my wiring, inluding busses, I used 16AWG stranded wire for my small 5' x 10' layout. But if you went around 3 sides of you shed and started at one end, you would have roughly 80'-90' booster wire/busses. That's long. If you can locate your booster and circuit breakers near the center, then split each buss at the track level in both directions, you will still be in the 45'-50' buss range. You will probably need at least 12AWG (heavier) buss wire. You may have to use a short, smaller AWG piece at the circuit board in and out, not a problem (e.g., your booster output is not 12AWG. Anyway, I'd have to look up what AWG is suggested for 50', so maybe someone knows whether 12AWG is ok. EDIT: The DCC guide has a table that shows buss length for 1/2 volt drop (max desired, implied) versus AWG. The voltage drop will vary with current draw for that section (number of locos, etc). It shows both 5A (conservative) and 2A (you may or may not exceed that in one of your sections). So let's focus on the 5A conservative case. In that case, the number of feet of wire for 1/2 volt drop is 40' for 14AWG, 63' for 12AWG, and 100' for 10AWG. That would suggest your buss wires should be within those figures, depending on whether you "tee" them outward from the center or run very long busses from one end. For track feeders, usually recommended about every 6' in HO, I used 22AWG solid hookup wire.
I do suggest you get some literature also. I really liked the DCC Guide available in the MR "Shop" tab above. The following webpage is very useful but very comprehensive on DCC, so I suggest you start with the DCC Guide and your DCC system instructions.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm
Thats AWESOME .
Thanks so much for that great info. I wil probably go with having the booster in the middle somewhere to reduce my buss run length. I want to do this properly the first time , so getting fool proof wiring is important.
I do have another question though.
In your picture I notice a red wire connected just in front of the output of the EB1s, Where does it go to ?
Cheers my friend
Tom