I'm not happy with my Atlas HO switch machines or control switches and would like something more reliable. A machine that has the ability to hold points tight to ther rail in both directions.
What would you recomend
Gary
After lots of reading on the forum I was swayed to go with Tortoise switch machines. I have 20+ turnouts and got used to installing them and have them controlled by DPDT switches on a control panel. The Tortoises run on 12v DC. I used their (Circuitron's) power supply, which is regulated and can run 30 or so items. Each Tortoise draws a bit of current constantly, but "stalls" when it hits it's end point and still draws a bit of current. The Tortoise uses a spring wire on a lever aside the box, which goes up through the throwbar hole. Some folks replace the supplied wire with a piece of 0.032" or so stiffer piano wire, but that's a detail.
The Tortoise goes for about $17 street price but can be had in boxes of 6 for a bit less:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Circuitron-800-6006-Tortoise-Switch-Machine-Value-p/cir-800-6006.htm
Here's a search for older threads on the subject:
https://www.google.com/search?q=cs.trains+tortoise&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:MIE-Address&ie=&oe=&gws_rd=ssl
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I prefer Tortoise switch machines. You could also investigate servo motor systems such as those by Tam Valley. Both should fit your needs.
Joe
I'm also a fan of Tortoise machines. Over the last few years, I've stopped using twin-coils and gone with Tortoises for my newer turnouts.
But, I've got a lot of Atlas and Peco machines as well, and they all work very reliably. What gauge and track code are you using? Installed properly, Atlas machines should work well. There is significant "overthrow" by the machine, and the springy wire should hold the points against the stock rails. Are you sure you are sending enough power to the switch machines? If your power supply isn't strong enough, or if you've got long wire runs to the machines that eat some of your power, you may not be driving them hard enough. A capacitive discharge circuit will store energy and release it suddenly when called for, giving your machines a bigger jolt to solve these problems. Another common problem is installation and ballasting. If the throwbar is not completely free to move, once again, you might see the symptoms you've described.
Peco turnouts and switch machines attach differently. The Peco turnout has a built-in spring mechanism which holds the points to the rails. The machines attach to the underside of the turnout, and you need to cut a hole to accomodate them. Peco machines need even more power, though, and a capacitive discharge circuit is almost mandatory for them.
A single CD circuit should be sufficient for all the twin-coil machines on your layout.
As for those control buttons, replace them with single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) momentary contact toggles. You can order these in bulk from online electronics places, or you can get the Miniatronics ones at your LHS.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I too have been 'converted' to the Tortise machine. They are expensive but in the long run will last as long as your layout and are very reliable. I replaced the wire with a .039" dia one and it provides very positive pressure on the rails. I now have 32 of them on my layout and some are controlled with the DPDT Toggle and some with my DCC controller using a stationary decoder. Another advantage is the built-in switches which I use to run LED's that show turnout direction.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
A Tortoise machine may cost more, but you get significant value for the difference. A Tortoise gives you two built-in sets of SPDT contacts, which can be used to power frogs and drive signals. Because the panel toggle is not a momentary contact, the toggle lever gives you the position of the turnout just by looking at the panel. Besides that, you can put LEDs in series with the drive voltage and get another indicator of turnout position, without even using the contacts. To duplicate all this extra functionality, you'd end up spending even more.
And of course there's servos, which need specialized controls, but can be cheaper than Tortoises, even when you include the control electronics, which all just plugs in, no 'wiring' needed. See for example, Tam Valley Depot.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
LIONS use TORTISE machines.
More expensive they are NOT. They save the LION lots of time and frustration. That has a value beyond, far beyond money.
Tortoise machines are very easy and forgiving to install, just as long as you throw away all of those templates provided by circuitron, and do thing my way.
Under the throw bar you drill a hole. LIONS use 3/8" or even 1/2" if him is too lazy to change the drill bit. Carefully and manually center the lever on the Tortoise, place a glob of silicone caulk on the face of the tortoise, keeping it away from the lever and from the hole on the layout. Thread the actuating rod up through the hole into the throw bar on the turnout. Slip the Tortoise about so that the switch points are also centered, and also make sure that the switch machine is neutral to the switch for and aft and aligned perpendicularly to the throw.
It should stick for you, but you may need to prop it in place with a stick or something until the caulk sets. If later you want to remove it, it will pop right off again.
LION does use the extra contacts to energise side tracks, and/or provide signal logic to wayside signals.
LION has also been able to use the Tortoise machines in remote locations using rods to connect to the drawbar.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I made installation of Tortise's easy (for me) with the mounting plates and some 2-face carpet tape. The photos show the install and once 'stuck' in place I run 2 screws in for good luck? Just another way to simplify installation of these machines.
Oh I wish I had a picture of the servo installs on my firned's layout. Every bit as simple as a Tortoise - drill a whole, same as for a Tortoise. The pieces for mechanical connection on a servo are called 'horns', the typical ones have 4 arms. You cut 3 of the 4 off. One side of the servo you will glue or caulk to the underside of the layout. The arm of the hron faces down. Wire is inserted in the horn and through the throwbar hole, same as a Tortoise.
This image from Craig Bisgeier's blog shows it, although my friend didn;t even bother with the extra block of wood, he just glued the servo right to the bottom of the layout. Craig did it more like Bob, glue the servo to a piece of wood, stick the bood on the bottom and run a screw or two through for the final attachment.
http://www.housatonicrr.com/images/ConstJournal10/ChineseMicroServo.jpg
No need to spend (waste) money on those fancy servo mounting brackets.
Not often mentionned are also the Hankcraft display motor.
They run like a stall motor, easy to mount, powerful and nearly lifetime
Ordered in quantities, they cost is around 10$ each.
They have encountered a good success in the 80's and big layout like the FSM have used them.
I have myself an around 50 working on my layout for more than 20 years and none have show any trouble, the only lack is they didn't have contacts but a servo encountered the same problems; the pictures following show how they are mounted on my layout.
I just ordered some Tortoise but feel the price a bit hight and so far will ask a price for a consequent order of Hankcraft motor.