Guys, thanks for including the Optovisor in the discussion. I forgot to mention it and I couldn't do any of the fine work without it.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I like using the third hand for many jobs. Mine doesn't have the magnifying len's or solder iron holder and has a larger heavier base. I use a swing arm adjustable 8'' magnifier with circular florescent bulb which lights up area perfect for my eyes.
http://www.micromark.com/third-hand-soldering-station,9380.html
Take Care!
Frank
BTW: That swing arm 8'' magnifier was invaluable when it came to soldering the sub-miniature DPDT switches and push button/lights on this control panel.Switches are smaller than a decoder:
richhotrainI'm not so sure that the holder gadgets are all that worthwhile for this job.
True, perhaps. I have used a lump of clay to stick the decoder on. One way or another it is advisable to have some way of holding the decoder, or any small component for that matter, steady while you work. I usually need three or four hands when I'm balancing wire, solder, flux, the iron, the workpiece and a beer and it usually helps that the decoder won't go skidding off the bench and I roll over it with my chair wheels when I move to pick it up.
The little magnifier is of marginal use as well, I agree. I usually have my Optivisor on the whole time I'm in the workroom.
These are only suggestions.
Happy modeling, Ed
I'm not so sure that the holder gadgets are all that worthwhile for this job.
The key tools are a pencil type soldering iron, thin strand solder, and an Optivisor.
You want to be able to see close up what you are working on, so the Optivisor is extremely helpful because it moves with you since it is mounted on your head.
The thin strand solder is important because the thin diameter of the solder ensures that it will melt quickly and not result in a big blob.
The pencil type soldering iron is the most important tool because you want to pin point the solder onto the decoder tab.
Rich
Alton Junction
mbinsewiI like that part holder, it doesn't look as awkward as the one I've seen with all the clamps and rods.
Mike, I've had a half dozen different kinds of these holder gadgets over the years. As far as I was concerned, they were all over-rated gimmicks.
I had an order going to Micromark and needed one more item to get me to the free shipping level or something like that. This thing was on sale so I tossed it in the cart.
Actually, I really find this one pretty handy. The alligator clips are fairly solid, the magnifier is clear and you can swap out the arms for a magnet or remove the extra ones. PLUS it clamps to the table. All the other weighted ones wound up tipping over or even falling on the floor.
Its not great for every job but for the cost it is worthwhile. If you make your own I suggest following the design pretty closely.
The reason I got it was to solder magnet wire to SMD LEDs and it is handy for that.
Happy Holidays, Ed
Thanks guys! It looks like I need to do a serious up-grade to my soldering tools! I need a new iron before I do this. I like that part holder, it doesn't look as awkward as the one I've seen with all the clamps and rods. I'm thinking I could use some pieces of solid copper wire with clips attached, and make something similar.
Mike.
My You Tube
Excellent advice from Dave!
I'll only add two points to his advice.
1) For years I have looked at these gadgets and thought, what would I ever use one of these for???
http://www.micromark.com/4-arm-holding-jig,7173.html
Now I know! They're pretty handy for the kind of work you are getting in to.
2) You have probably done some DCC installs where you have removed a factory PC board. Dig it out of the scrap bin and practice your soldering technique on it.
This lets you get the hang of doing some fine soldering and not risking any major damage.
Sometimes I need to remove a component from a PC board and want to keep the hole open so I can pass a wire through or put a new component in. I keep a can of air around just for this. While the solder is fluid give it a blast of "air" and it will open the hole. This doesn't apply with SMD pad soldered components bit for older drilled boards it can be handy.
Good luck, Ed
Hi Mike:
First, what type of soldering iron(s) do you have? What you need is a low wattage pencil style iron with a pointed tip, like this:
http://www.micromark.com/economy-priced-variable-temperature-soldering-iron,9257.html
You should also consider using solder specifically designed for electronics work. I use a Kesters rosin core solder with 2% silver content. It is very small in diameter. Here is one source. Scroll down the page. (Note that the soldering iron on the top of the page does not have variable heat but I trust this source so if they are offering something it will likely work as advertised):
http://www.ngineering.com/soldering.htm
You are correct to tin the wires first. The pads on the decoder should already be tinned. They should look like there is a very small amount of solder on them. There will be a very slight rounded silver bump on the pad. If not, I suggest applying some solder to the pads before trying to solder the wires to them.
I have the same style of iron shown in the Micro-Mark listing, and I usually have the heat setting on about 2/3rds. You want the iron to be hot enough to do the job quickly but not so hot that it damages the pad. Working quickly is the way to avoid damage. If you have prepared everything properly, i.e. tinned wire, clean iron tip, a wee bit of solder on the pad, then the joint should be formed almost instantly. Put the wire in place on top of the pad and the touch the iron to the pad/wire just like you said. I take the added step of putting a tiny bit of rosin flux on the pad or the wire. It is probably overkill but it works every time.
If you hold the iron on the pad for more than a couple of seconds you will likely cause the pad to come loose from the board. If that happens your decoder is pooched. Some manufacturers will replace decoders even if you messed up. I'm not sure what Digitrax's policies are.
Too much solder is not good because you risk causing a bridge between the pad you are working on and the one next to it. There are tools available to remove excess solder but you have to re-melt the solder to use them, and then heat the pad again to attach the wire. Not a great idea.
The one thing you can't buy is a steady hand, but you can help things by mounting the decoder VERY gently in a vise, just enough to keep it still. Use rubber pads or something soft to cushion the decoder. Don't mount it directly into steel jaws! I also find it helpful to have something to brace my hand against if I have the shakes, which is most of the time.
Hope this helps a bit.
Let us know how you make out. Once you have done a few its easy. Don't get lazy with the preparations!
Nice layout by the way!
I bought 2 DH165IP's to install on a Kato's SD45 (WC) and a C44-9W (BNSF), and Digitrax instructions, for adding ditch lights, say to attach wires to F1/F1+ and F2/F2+ , and common wire to the center tab.
So, I've never soldered a wire to a decoder, I'm thinking I tin the wires, and touch them, and the iron to tabs ? and it won't damage the chip?
I just hate to ruin a decoder, and the board on the Kato, and wanted some advice / encouragement!
I know I have to change some CV values to get them to work (and maybe even flash!), but first, I need to make the connections.
Thanks guys,