It always takes TWO gaps to stop a train. Yes a jumper or soldering a rail joiner will fix it, but one of those gaps could have been caused by a switch point. I'd check that very carefully even though it is working now.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Thanks for the help. I did the simplist thing and ran more wire to the dead area. Problem solved.
You will usually need a load on the section of track for proper troubleshooting. A loco or a car light bulb. Some use an 1156 light bulb as a load.
Sometimes you will see the proper voltage with no load and as soon as you connect a load, the voltage drops.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
When I see "wet landscaping" and "dead track" together, I immediately suspect that you got glue into the rail joiners, so they are no longer making a good connection. Mobilman is right. Just run a pair of feeders and be done with it.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
It could be the result of a loose rail joiner or other track connection. The easy way to fix it is to run another set of feeders to it.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Sounds like a intermittent feeder or track splice. Get your voltmeter out and troubleshoot.
If the DCC controller did not trip, you have a loss of power because of open circuit, not a short.
So far I cannot figure out why I have a dead area of track all of a sudden. It messures not much more than 8 inches. Some times the train will go by but more times than not it will stop dead. It happens just after a double gap and about 12 inches from the next wired rails. I at first thought it was shorting because of an area I was landscaping was still wet. Not wet now. Has anyone had this happen or have some suggestions on posible causes. Train runs fine after moved the 8 inches. Thanks John.