They come in various voltages and amperage ratings. Be sure what voltage you need before ordering. And some are AC, although most are DC. The Miller Engineering signs take a 4 1/2 volt DC power source, or Walwart. You can also find them at Radio Shack, although the prices are generally higher.
It looks like a wart on the wall.
Cheap ones can be had on eBay.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Ok. I see what it is. But is it called a wall wart because it looks like a wart on the wall or because you can get them cheap at Wallmart? Which brings up the question: Where can you buy them cheap?
wdcrvr
"Wall Wart"
Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, COClick Here for my model train photo website
I am still laying track on my ho layout, but I am looking forward to ading some of these terrific looking signs in the future. However, I have to now show my "newbie" status by asking "What is a walwart that you keep talking about?" I am guessing some cheap ac/dc converter of some sort?
Thanks
Although you were asking about a 5v 3amp supply, Miller Engineering offers a "converter module" (#4804) that drops input voltage from 17v - 5v down to the required 4.5v for their animated signs. Of course one #4804 is rated for only 6 signs...so maybe not enough for you unless you use several #4804's
Scroll to the very bottom of this link:
Miller Engineering Converter Module
I just installed one of these under my layout yesterday. Super easy to install. It also has really a good sticky backing that adhered nicely to the underside of my layout. My power supply is 12v 5amp.
Hooked up 2 animated signs so far (although I should have adjusted the camera settings a bit as you can't see the motel lettering on the sign):
cadman11 If you just have two or three signs you could actually pull power from your tracks using the regulator and rectifier.
If you just have two or three signs you could actually pull power from your tracks using the regulator and rectifier.
You "can" do this, but it's not a good idea. If you run DC, the power to the signs will be reduced when you're running slowly, and if you run DCC you will be eating into your precious train amps with static lighting displays. Do yourself a favor and install separate power for everything but your trains themselves.
Don't piggyback.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I have over 20 Miller Engineering signs and originally powered the first few with a 12 volt 1.5 amp wall wart (all lighted structures have a 5 volt regulator and bridge rectifier). After adding a few more I finally purchased a 300 Watt computer power supply using the 12 volt leads feeding into 18 guage zip cord with taps for each structure.
I used a 5 volt regulator, bridge rectifier and 1000 Mf capacitor in the case I decided to sell any of the structures on EBAY which would allow users of DCC / DC or AC to use without a problem as the 5 volt regulator will handle an input up to 20 volts.
It makes no difference whether you feed DC or AC into the circuit before the rectifier and I have a constant, steady 5 volt output from the beginning of the line to the end 20'. Actually I have two computer supplies as my layout goes around the top of a 20 x 20 room.
If using a 5 volt supply just put a diode in series with the output. That will drop the voltage .7 volts. Any 1 amp diode (1N4001) will work.
Caboose62:
Recognize that they only show up in night scenes, which I guess is pretty true for the prototypes too. They are not bright like a neon sign would be.
I'm not trying to discourage you. I have acquired several of them and I intend to have my night scenes 'come alive' with lots of exterior and interior building lights including the animated signs, as well as lots of street lights and vehicle lights.
Sorry I can't answer the battery life question, but why go through the hassle of having to replace batteries when you can wire them direct and never bother with them again? Having said that, I personally would not invite trouble by running something that is recommended for 4.5 volts at a higher voltage. The signs are a bit pricey. You want a bunch of them. Wall warts are cheap. You only need one of them. No brainer.
Sorry - I am not trying to sound condescending.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I have a couple of those signs, but I use a 4.5 volt wallwart.
I have a 12-volt lighting bus that runs around my layout. When I get a Miller Engineering sign, I install batteries and then use a meter to measure the current. From this, I can calculate the resistance of the sign electronics with the battery voltage, and easily figure out what resistor value I need to put in series with the sign so that it gets the right voltage when connected to my 12-volt bus.
I have several of these, including some old 3-volt models, so I just do this for each installation so I make sure I get a "custom fitted" resistor for each unit.
I have a few of them that have been running on their power supplies for years with no problems. You might want to look at Miniatronics, too, for other options in illuminated signs. I put a shoe repair shop in the basement of this City Classics building:
It's hard to photograph, but the sign just fills the window and also provides illumination for the shop.
Hi,
I was lucky enough to find an old DC 4.5 volt 500 mA and I run five Miller signs off it with no problems. I can't imagine that your 5 volts would pose a problem especially if you are going to have several signs that would draw the voltage down.
You have three amps available? That seems high for most wall-warts but not unheard of. You could run up to 31 signs with that. Signs draw about 95 mA. according to the Miller site.
I can't really estimate battery life since I only tested them with batteries and then clipped off the battery holder shortly afterwards.
Ed
Anyone have any experience with Miller Engineeering animated signs? What I am wondering is this. How long do they last using batteries? Second: Since they are listed as 4.5 volt, can you use a 5 volt supply to power them without burning them out. I hope to have a lot of them and I can use a 5 volt power supply rated at 3000 mA for powering all of them. Each is supposed to take 180 mA to work. Your thoughts?