You can adjust various volumes in Loksound without needing the programmer, all via CV settings - so you can make the horn louder and the bell quieter, as well as control the overall volume. Depending on the contents of the sound project the Intermountain loads, you can swap different horns and bells just by setting a CV.
I have a Loksound programmer because I've standardized on Loksound as my sound decoder. All my sound locos have Loksound, and any more I will put decoders in will get Loksound. For non-sound, I have standardized on TCS.
If you want to buy Loksound to do your own installs, the major DCC dealers will load your choice of sound file in it before shipping, so you don't need the Programmer.
There are steam sounds for Loksound Select, and they will work in any Select decoder, even the Select Direct. The Select Direct is a board repalcement decoder for Atlas, Athearn, and some other diesels, but there's nothing says you can;t use on in s steam loco. Though a regular Select or Select Micro would be a better physical fit to must steam loco tenders.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Hi guys,
The new intermountain loco is on it's way. I'd like to post a video if its really impressive.
Dave,
I love the chuff-chuff from my steam loco at low speeds but after that I get the same feeling of grating on my nerves. Pity they don't do a reduce volume with speed on the decoder. Also, it would be relly cool if you could still use the whistle / horn / steam release while the prime mover was muted.
Not so much on diesels but the steam locos sound unrealistic.
Chris.
Loco Guy - is a state of mind - not an affinity to locomotives.
Sit back and enjoy your track...
Chris:
At this stage in your DCC Sound career I wouldn't bother spending the money on the Loksound Programmer. I bought one to deal with Loksound decoder factory installed by Intermountain which didn't have a particular function enabled (back up light for an FP7). I solved the problem but I haven't had a need to touch the Programmer since. It would have been cheaper to just buy a full functioned decoder.
I think you will be suitably impressed by the Loksound performance. However, if the sound isn't very good the first thing I would do is check out the speaker. Your sound can only be as good as the speaker. If you feel the need to replace the speaker then consider using iPhone5 "sugar cube" speakers. They are amazing. There is a thread on them in the Electronics/DCC section now.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/239380.aspx (Sorry - I can't make the link clickable. Somebody?)
As for the range of different sounds, I think you will be very happy with the Loksound decoder. Everything you mentioned is there right from the start. You will need to go to the Loksound website to study the manual to see what function key controls what sound. You can play with the sound arrangements without needing the Programmer.
One thing I do as soon as I install a decoder is turn the volume down from factory settings. The factory setting is so loud that it grates on my nerves.
Have fun!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Randy,
I'd like to see what the powercab can do - I hope we can change the CV's to give something reasonable in the sound. I'll get the programmer, if needed, but I think you need to hook it up to a computer and that sounds like my day job to me :-(
You need the Loksound Programmer to change the sounds. But it already has all that stuff in it. You'll need your Powercab to access all the functions, the Bachmann won't cut it.
I have spent a lot of time going back and forth on this. I found an Intermountain SD40-2 with DCC and LOKSOUND for $179 on ebay. So I bought it. Now I think I want to get the loco and see what sounds it can produce and then maybe do a replacement - not conversion from the Bachmann OEM sound for maybe LOKSOUND if its as good as people say.
I read the LOKSOUND specs and apparently you can reprogram the whole sound module with custom built sound files. All I really need is something more than a bell and a horn - like break squeal, coupler clank, fans, compressors... lets hope the LOKSOUND delivers.
I have found the best engines to convert to Sound are the ones with Factory and just pull them from the box and plop them on the layout!
They will sound better than most individuals trying to play sound engineer and one will spend a whole lot less time in the long run and still NOT have a homebred sound conversion sound better than a good factory sound unit!
That is unless YOU are a Sound engineer and can remanufacture the complete insides of the engines to make the should the best it can be.
But then on the other hand don't start complaining how expensive the Hobby is and one doesn't have the time to put into it just because you think that a home bres sound install is cheaper!
Reprogramming a factory decoder unit isn't the same as maching the unit for speakers and the like!
Which I do have the Vertical Mills and Lathes to do the work!
YMMV!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
TCS is the palce to go,t hey have lots of pictures for lots of brands of locos:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto_1000FM/proto_1000_fm.htm
A motor only decoder is a fairly easy install in this loco. There is no real room for a big speaker and enclosure without removing some of the chassis.
Adding sound and DCC to non-sound versions of some Bachmann steamers just got easier - TCS has replacement board for some Bachmann steamers that repalce the factory board in the tender and allow simple plug in of a motor only or a sound decoder.
Without being familiar with this loco I would start by using a multi-meter to check if the motor is isolated from the frame, if not then evaluate how to isolate it. Then is there physical room for the decoder or can you make room. The Loksound Micro decoders are excellent and tiny. Go for it and good luck.
Okay,
I dug out a Proto 1000 HO NEW YORK CENTRAL F-M Erie Built PA unit - one of the few DC loco's I have to work with - without buying one to convert.
I'd just like an opinion on if that would be something to try - or if its going to be a big task removing parts of the chassis. I don't see much room inside the shell - but then again I never installed a decoder and speaker either.
Bachmann wants to supply sound locos to the MRR hobby at a more reasonable cost, especially for those who are not able to convert DC locos.
There is a good market. Some complain about the suggested price but have no idea they can buy online at a much better price.
For someone who did not get an answer at the Bachmann site, probably no one did the same install. There is only so much the Bachmann reps can help us with.
When I use a belt sander and a 4 inch diameter rotary sander on a frame, I keep a bowl of cold water handy and use leather gloves to hold the frame. The frame can get quite hot. As a former industrial mechanic, I have learned a lot of tricks over the years.
Obvious Man is usually a great help as is Goggle searching.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
basementdweller I read a reply here that said to just buy a loco with sound. Practical advice no doubt but please correct me if I am wrong, the Tsunami sound decoders that come installed in sound locos are not the same sound decoder that you buy if it is separate. I understood that the sound decoders installed by the manufacturer have a more limited range of sounds available. Is this accurate? i am sure most would not notice, I didn't but it was pointed out to me by a friend who was helping me with some programming issues. To the OP, adding sound is a fun and rewarding project, but in my opinion the Blue Box Athearn's have limited space inside and older P2K locos are just plain frustrating unless you strip out the circuit board and then hardwire. I don't suggest putting sound in a cheap loco, in my opinion it isn't worth the trouble.
I read a reply here that said to just buy a loco with sound. Practical advice no doubt but please correct me if I am wrong, the Tsunami sound decoders that come installed in sound locos are not the same sound decoder that you buy if it is separate. I understood that the sound decoders installed by the manufacturer have a more limited range of sounds available. Is this accurate? i am sure most would not notice, I didn't but it was pointed out to me by a friend who was helping me with some programming issues.
To the OP, adding sound is a fun and rewarding project, but in my opinion the Blue Box Athearn's have limited space inside and older P2K locos are just plain frustrating unless you strip out the circuit board and then hardwire. I don't suggest putting sound in a cheap loco, in my opinion it isn't worth the trouble.
I have been to the Bachmann forums a lot. I have never seen Bachmann refer to the onboard sound decoder as a Tsunami. The word, Tsunami is applied by users who "assume' the decoder is a full blown Tsunami.
I have seen references that the decoders have Tsunami technology. Many running characteristics are nearly the same. Many don't take the time to read all the specs in the ads or look at the CV list. Go back and slowly read the ads.
Typical Male. lol
Depends. Athearn and Bachmann use cut-down Tsunamis with fewer features than the ones you install yourself. Bowser had replacement sound chassis for some of their F units that used full Tsunamis. Atlas and Bowser are now using Loksound, and they are the full Loksound decodeer, not cut down in features.
Being on the inside and not visible once the shell if back on, ultra jet-engine precision is not required here. The trick to making it look at least halfway decent and not like someone randomly jabbed a sharp tool at the weight area is to clamp it down so you aren;t holding botht he motor tool AND the piece you are working on. Hold the tool and rest your hands on the workbench. Don't try to take off all the material in one big bite, make many small passes - if the motor tool slows or strains, you're pressing too hard or trying to take too big a bite. Mark the dimensions of the cut with a Sharpie marker before starting, so you can see where you need to get to.
But there are plenty of options mentioned that won;t require any of this, you should start there. For more information on making the more complicated sound installs, there is a Yahoo Group called RPMClinics-RickBell in which you'll mostly be intereded in the files section. The work on one loco at a time, detailing each and every step of an install, and then once it's done, they compile all the text and pictures into a document and place it in the files section. Very good step by steps on installing sound decoders and speakers, and upgrading lighting.
Rich,
I tried to join the "ask the bachmann" forum and never got a relpy or login.
Bachmann don't seem to care about users of their product.
I do have a nice "dremel like tool" that I can use but imagintion does not always relate to a nice job. These things vibrate like crazy and I want precision. Or at least a decent job.
If anyone knows better then let me know.
LOCO_GUY 2. I don't have any fancy gear to grind, mill, or adjust frames/chassis or whatever so I'm going to go with a store bought loco when I can afford it. I just don't understand why a manufacturer like Bachmann does not offer this option - value series or full blown. I would pay the extra.
2. I don't have any fancy gear to grind, mill, or adjust frames/chassis or whatever so I'm going to go with a store bought loco when I can afford it.
I just don't understand why a manufacturer like Bachmann does not offer this option - value series or full blown. I would pay the extra.
You can use a belt sander with the proper grit.
Also use a Dremel with diamond cutoff wheel. I have done both for certain frames. Just use your imagination to figure out how.
Obvious Man says, go join the Bachmann forums and ask. There are reps there. I know what the answer will be as I have seen this question a few times in different forums.
I am over 70 and have the same issues as you do.
Once again, thank you for the many replies.
I am replying to all posts here to say that I am still undecided on convert or not-convert.
However, the many replies have me overwhelemed - and I appreciate it.
1. On the optivisor recommendations I got my new visor today and it "ROCKS" better than my ordinary glasses. It was the Carson Optical Pro Series and I know it s gonna work fine for me. Even has lens cleaner. less than $30 on amazon.
Thanks for all the feedback - it's nice on a personal level to be part of a community - and this is a good one.
Well, i think that was mostly Chuck demonstrating the extremes. For the OP, definitely an recent model Athearn, or P2k or Atlas loco, NON sound. Got to start somewhere. Next I would try something like an old style Blue Box loc where there is some soldering involved, but nothing crazy. THEN maybe try a sound install, very few sound installs that don't involve some shoehorning at the least and usually a little weight milling. I did do an Athearn RTR something or other for a customer that I managed to fit it all in, speaker and enclosure, without having to chop up anything, and that's even with being supplied the 'wrong' decoder - the board replacement form factor would have left more room. A late model Atlas Silver Series should be easy to add sound to - the Silver Series non-sound still had the speaker enclosures cast as part of the chassis so all you have to do is remove the extra weights they stuffed in there and insert the same size speakers as used in the sound versions. Probably the easiest sound conversions around, since they have the speaker chambers already. The lastes Athearn release will have the speaker enclosure even on the DC ones, so those should also prove to be fairly easy to convert.
rrinker I know someone who could probably do it, unfortunately he is no longer with us. After seeing the sound and DCC installs Wolfgang did in those tiny Grandt Line 25 tonners, I'm sure he could have figured out this one. --Randy
I know someone who could probably do it, unfortunately he is no longer with us. After seeing the sound and DCC installs Wolfgang did in those tiny Grandt Line 25 tonners, I'm sure he could have figured out this one.
Yeah, Wolfgang was great. Last time I looked his site was still up.
If the OP goes with short wheel base locos, he will need powered frogs. Some put a layout together that does not have powered frogs and have operating issues using DCC. Stay Alive can help a lot.
A fellow on a SoundTraxx Yahoo Groups is running a Varney Docksider with DSD090LC decoder and 5 supercaps disguised as air tanks.
IMHO, the best locomotive(s) for conversion to DCC and sound would be any of the PRR or ATSF steamers fitted with 16-wheel tenders. The tender of a DC version is just a big, empty box with the internal cubic of a 60 foot box car - plenty of room for dual speakers (with proper baffles) and almost any decoder.
OTOH, for anyone who really wants a challenge, you could try my 1873 Hohenzollern 0-4-0T. The 1:80 scale model is a block of lead with a wheel at each corner, with a central cavity barely big enough to accept the 5-pole vertical open-frame drive motor. Speaker enclosure? You're kidding, right?
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Bachmann has a sound value line that uses SoundTraxx decoders. They are not called Tsunami decoders because they are a little stripped down, a few CV's and a few less sounds. The Bachmann ad's generally tell you exactly what you are going to get. Bachmann and SoundTraxx both list the Bachmann loco CV list.
This is not the Bachmann in the previous century. Bachmann has come a long way.
I belong to the Bachmann forums and some other forums and this new line is getting positive results, plus Bachmann has a good return policy if an issue. Don't throw away the receipt.
Online prices much better that the Bachmann prices.
Bachmann site has a lot of good info and forums for different scales.
I have a knockoff set, works pretty well. Combined witht he LARGE lighted magnifier I picked up - hmm, wish I could remember where I bought it from - unlike the typical ones you find with the 3-4" lens, this thing has like a 12" lens. I've had glasses for over 40 years. Now bifocals, since my near vision is going too. Ideal uncorrected distance for me is almost exactly 2" from the tip of my nose. Closer it gets blurry, further it gets blurry. I HAVE glued and soldered and painted things just inches from my nose so I could see what I was doing.
Thanks for all the replies. The post had an unexpected result of letting me know about these visors - which is great!
I just ordered a pair from Amazon with an LED light and four interchangeable lenses.
I'll probably look like a "sad geek" wearing them - but at least I'll be able to see what I'm doing - hoorayyyy!
LOCO_GUYCan anyone tell me if you can wear your own glasses while wearing the optivision device?
Yes, you can wear eyeglasses together with the Optivisor, because the optivisor's lens is quite a distance from your eyes.
Yeah, I'm thinking you are right - just pay for the full blown sound in a brand new loco. You really can't go wrong.
I'm sure my wife will be pleased with my decision. Better get her some flowers and chocolates before breaking the news.
I've done about 30 sound installs. But I now buy locos with sound installed. As another poster said, you don't save any money after buying the loco, the sound decoder, and a speaker. The sound installs I did were on locos I already had. Some were easy. Some involved removing the weight and doing some grinding. Some involved removing the weight completely.