Watch the video on this website under expert tips. I use a modified version of the spike head feeder method. http://mrr.trains.com/videos/expert-tips/2009/11/video-how-to-wire-a-model-railroad-layout I use 22 AWG solid insulated wire and I drill a hole in the roadbed between 2 ties instead of through the tie as suggested in the above video. Here is another method: http://mrr.trains.com/videos/expert-tips/2009/11/video-how-to-wire-a-model-railroad-layout
When soldering attach alligator clips or any other type of metal cliping device on either side of the wire-to-rail joint. This should dissipate the heat from the soldering iron and prevent you from melting the ballast and ties on your bachmann track. I would also recommend not using a soldering iron over 45Watts, anything more is overkill.
FYI. There are forums for different scales
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
First, which EZ Track is it, the black base, steel rails, or the grey base, nickel-silver rails? If it's the steel rail stuff, good luck. It's very hard to solder to steel. However, you can, I believe, work in normal rail joiners (been a while since I had an EZ Track), which could all have wires soldered to them (done at the workbench, no worries about melting anything) and you would need to cut notches in the ends of each of the roadbed pieces to feed the wires through. This would work for either type of EZ Track.
If you have the nickel silver track, you need to drill a hole against the outside of the rail, big enough to fit the wire through. If you use solid wire for the feeders (I use solid #20), you can strip the end and shape it to run parallel to the rails, and bend it slightly so that it rests up against the rail, to make the whole job easier. Make sure the soldering iron you're using has a clean and shiny tip. Something around 40-50 watts is a good size for this sort of work. Practice on some scraps - if the iron is up to temperature and clean, the joint will heat up enough to melt the solder before the heat transfers to melt the plastic. Just don't slip and put the tip against the palstic roadbed. It's really no different than soldering feeders to regular track with plastic ties.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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