Well, it didn't take long for my first problem. Environment: Digitrax Zephyr, 1 Kato F3 with TCS K0D8-B, 1 Kato SD45 with TCS K1D4-NC. The first install was the SD45 and everything went great. The second install was the F3 and it started out fine, but my happiness was short lived. I have changed the addresses of both locomotives (to different four-digit addresses). The SD45 works like a champ, but the F3 will run for a minute, sometimes less, sometimes more, then stops. The failure point is not a specific point on the track. The only way to get it to run again is to unplug the Zephyr and plug it back in. Once done, the F3 will start up from whereever it is and run for a bit, and stops. When it is stopped, I can still turn the light on and off. Any ideas?
Richard
Perhaps the decoder's motor drive is overheating from too much load on it and its internal circuit breaker is shutting it down. If you let it sit awhile it may take off again after the decoder cools down, instead of having to shut the Zephyr off.
Did you lubricate the model while you had it opened up to install the decoder? Run the model without the shell on and see if it continues to shut down. If it does, feel the decoder and see if it's hot. Also make sure there's no mechanical binding in the mechanism.
It's also possible that you have a defective decoder and need to replace it. TCS offers a "goof proof" warranty and will replace any decoder that is sent back to them, even if it was burned out due to installer error. Check fheir web site for details.
http://www.tcsdcc.com
Did you follow the pictorial installation instructions provided on the TCS web site for this locomotive, and did you use the Kapton tape they recommend?
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/N_Scale/Kato/EMD_F7A/EMD_F7A.html
How are you securing the motor wires to the decoder?
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain How are you securing the motor wires to the decoder? Rich
And we have a winner! I followed the directions on the TCS site and used the retaining clip to hold the motor tabs onto the decoder. (Instuctions say soldering is optional.) I was following cacole's reommended diagnostics and when I touched the decoder to see if it was warm. As soon as I touched the motor tabs, the engine took off. The connections are now soldered and everything seems to be working great.
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RideOnRoad richhotrain How are you securing the motor wires to the decoder? Rich And we have a winner! I followed the directions on the TCS site and used the retaining clip to hold the motor tabs onto the decoder. (Instuctions say soldering is optional.) I was following cacole's reommended diagnostics and when I touched the decoder to see if it was warm. As soon as I touched the motor tabs, the engine took off. The connections are now soldered and everything seems to be working great.
All decoder wiring should always be soldered.
If it needs to be undone later, there are a number of desoldering tools and techniques.
One of my little compartmented totes (ok, they sell them as fishing tackle boxes, but I have one with various couplers (anyone want tome Accumates?), one with a variety of small screws, and one with electronic parts) has a space completely filled by those little black tabs from all the locos I've put decoders in. They are not all created equal, some are thicker than others, and some are differnt widths. Like the Accumates - they are available. Not sure why I bother saving them, I know I will never use them. ANd I wouldn't give them to my worst enemy.
What likely happened here is that the DC board that was replaced was thicker than the decoder's pc board, so they just didn;t clip on hard enough.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
richhotrain Those retainer clips should be banned by the NMRA. All decoder wiring should always be soldered. Rich
Those retainer clips should be banned by the NMRA.
Unfortunately, as long as models are made overseas the manufacturers will continue using those plastic clips because they're CHEAP -- avoids the problem of children on the assembly line getting burned on a hot soldering tool, saves the expanse of solder and a soldering station, avoids environmental laws about lead-based solder, soldering fumes, etc.
cacole richhotrain Those retainer clips should be banned by the NMRA. All decoder wiring should always be soldered. Rich Unfortunately, as long as models are made overseas the manufacturers will continue using those plastic clips because they're CHEAP -- avoids the problem of children on the assembly line getting burned on a hot soldering tool, saves the expanse of solder and a soldering station, avoids environmental laws about lead-based solder, soldering fumes, etc.
Well, these are a little different from the little black plastic clips you see on P2k, Atlas, and Athearn - in N scale there is a larger clip that attaches the motor tabs to the light board. The problem is the difference in thickness of the pc board material used for the light board and for the decoder. This USUALLY manifests itself in the decoder not being wedged tight enough in the frame to get good contact with the frame halves for the track power pickup, not the motor clips falling off. The tape probably helps as well- you're supposed to be putting a piece of kapton tape between the motor strap and the decoder - the clip normally presses the motor strap against a conductor along the side of the light board, connecting it to track power, but in DCC of course the motor leads must remain isolated. Short of tearing apart the loco and replacing the copper straps to the motor with wires, this is as close to plug and play as it gets with N scale. Just like the little black caps we see in HO, I doubt all of the motor clips in N scale are identical, and since one decoder can fit many different locos, what size replacements shoul dbe included? There are plenty where it DOES work fine without soldering, which is why the instructions say "soldering optional". Again considering the much smaller size, and how many people will do ANYTHING to avoid soldering even something as big as their track bus wiring, you want them try to get in to the proper point on a small N scale decoder to solder the motor connection? Good thing TCS has a goof-proof warranty and will replace the first one even if you messed it up. Me, I would always solder, absolutely. But I solder everything I want to be permanent, and I have no fear of doing so. But I'm not everyone.
rrinker. . .Again considering the much smaller size, and how many people will do ANYTHING to avoid soldering even something as big as their track bus wiring, you want them try to get in to the proper point on a small N scale decoder to solder the motor connection?. . .
[ownhorntooting]
I would just like to point out that I am new to the whole soldering thing, having bought my first soldering iron (ever) less than a year ago.
[/ownhorntooting]
Remember Richard I mentioned to you that I solder a 26 gauge wire to each side of the decoder about one inch long and the other end to the copper strips that run along each side of the body. Doing this takes away any problem with contact for the motor and makes everything very reliable. I own 6 Kato F3's and did this to all of them. Doug
Well, I am guessing that we are working on an N scale Kato unit here. I can't see how this is better than just soldering the two motor strips to the decoder. Where do you find the room to run the two wires? Seams like this is more work to me. And you now have four solder joints to work with. Soldering the motor strips to the decoder take just a very small bit ot solder and your done.
I mentioned how I install my decoders on the Kato F3. Your way is ok too but to permanent for my liking if I want to make a change later. Take a look at Fifers website also for some interesting installs. Just a thought. Doug
Like you say, everyone has there own way of doing things.
Do what is best for you and it will be fine.