I picked up an HO Atlas S2 and want to add sound to it, it has the 8 pin socket. I am thinking using the Loksound Select Micro decoder. I also thought I may try using an iPhone speaker. Does this sound like an accetable way to go? Any other suggestions? Thanks.m
This install use the Tsunami Micro.
http://www.mrdccu.com/install/hods/Atlas-S2-826004.htm
A lokSound Micro would work. I have used the LokSound in a 44 tonner and 70 tonner. They are not heat sensitive like the Tsunami Micro. Just follow the wiring instructions on the decoder package.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
The Loksound Micro would be my suggestion as well, and the latest sound file is the same one Atlas uses in their factory installs. Once the top weight is cut down, there is plenty of room (relatively speaking) above the front truck for a decent sized speaker.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Don't forget the Atlas S2 has the same wiring problem the Proto 2000 S1 has, and they are not truly DCC ready, they need a new wire run to the lower motor brush to isolate it from the chassis. The rail pickups are isolated, but with one motor brush connected tot he frame, if the loco derails and a wheel is force back up against the frame, you have track power linked to the motor output, which means fried decoder.
Definitely go for the Loksound Micro, it's even smaller than the TSU-750 and you won't have to deal with the thermal adhesive and junk to keep it cool.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Don't forget the Atlas S2 has the same wiring problem the Proto 2000 S1 has, and they are not truly DCC ready, they need a new wire run to the lower motor brush to isolate it from the chassis. The rail pickups are isolated, but with one motor brush connected tot he frame, if the loco derails and a wheel is force back up against the frame, you have track power linked to the motor output, which means fried decoder. Definitely go for the Loksound Micro, it's even smaller than the TSU-750 and you won't have to deal with the thermal adhesive and junk to keep it cool. --Randy
The older S2's had this problem - the metal screw holding the motor to the frame needed to be replaced with a nylon one to insulate it. I believe they corrected this on the latest run.
Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated. I will keep you informed how this goes.
Basementdweller:
Don't forget that the Loksound Select Micro uses 4 ohm speakers only. (EDIT: See David B's and Mark R's comments below. Apparently I am starting to see things.) A single iPhone speaker is 8 ohms. You will have to use two iPhone speakers wired in parallel to bring the total impedance down to 4 ohms. See the third diagram down on this page:
http://www.sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/wiringmultispeakers.html
The Select Micro comes with a 4 ohm speaker and enclosure which would work nicely, but I think you would be more impressed with two iPhone speakers. The Loksound supplied speaker will need a bit of sealing to make the enclosure work properly.
I just put two iPhone speakers in a P2K SW9 with a Loksound Select decoder (not micro). The new Select full sized decoders will accept 4, 8 or 16 ohm speakers. The sound is really good. I put the speakers in the roof of the cab. There was just enough room left to squeeze in an engineer minus the top of his hat. I took a couple of side window glass panels out to help the sound escape, and I also removed part of the floor of the can interior where it can't be seen to allow sound out the bottom.
You might want to read the information about iPhone enclosures in the above link too.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hi David:
Apparently Loksound has changed their specs recently. The manual states that all three Select decoder versions can use 4 - 8 ohm speakers. See pages 6 and 11. However, when you read the general description of the decoders they refer to 4 ohm speakers only.
I'm sure that when I bought a Micro decoder recently it specified 4 ohms, and the speaker which was supplied with it measures 4 ohms. Nowhere can I now find a reference to the Select full sized decoders being able to use 16 ohms but I know I wasn't making it up. I found one reference to 16 ohms on page 13 of the manual but it is listed as a warning to not exceed that value only.
Anyhow, thanks for correcting my post.
EDIT(again!): Tony's says that the Loksound Selects can all accept 4, 8 or 16 ohm speakers. I think I had better learn to shut up on decoder installs!
ALL Loksound decoders work optimally with a four ohm speaker (which no other decoder can), but they also work just fine with 8 or 16 ohm speakers. You could even attach one of the old 100 ohm speakers if you wanted, but you won't get much sound out of it.
Straight from the Select manual .... LokSound Select decoders may be used with any speaker or combination of speakers whose total impedance is at least 4 ohms or higher. You should use the largest speaker possible to get the best volume and bass sound. We recommend the usage of the ESU speakers which are optimized for use with the LokSound Select. All of them are high power, 2W speakers with an impedance of 4 ohms.
And from the V4.0 manual .... For LokSound V4.0 decoders you can use loudspeakers (also combinations) with a total impendance of 4 – 16 Ohms. We recommend to use the 4 Ohms impendance by ESU as they are tuned to LokSound V4.0 decoders.
You can always run higher than the amp is rated for, but you can't go lower.
Well I now have sound in my S2. The newer release Atlas S2 has a speaker enclosure over the front truck, I installed the Loksound Select Micro with a 4 ohm speaker suggested by the LHS, it sounds excellent. The enclosure tool a little fabricating to accept the speaker but it was easy and straight forward.
Just running it for the first time I find the different function controls awkward after running only Tsunami's. I miss the short horn (f3). The front and rear headlights stay on and do not seem to be directional - is there a cv for this?
A fun evening project and an excellent smooth loco that sounds as good as it runs.
I appreciate all the comments and advice, thanks.
Martin.
Loksound decoders don't need a "short horn" function because you can just tap F2 and get a short horn.
As for the lights being on in both directions, you must have the Atlas file installed, the universal file has the directional lighting as default. To change the Atlas file to be directional, change the following ....
CV31 = 16, CV32 = 2
----------------------
CV257 = 20
CV273 = 24
CV's 31 and 32 are upper register CV's and must be set first before changing CV's 257 and 273.
Thanks Mark. I noticed that I could tap f2 which I thought was odd as with the Tsunami's f2 stays on.
basementdweller Thanks Mark. I noticed that I could tap f2 which I thought was odd as with the Tsunami's f2 stays on.
That's why Loksounds are more better !
I really need to get some track back up so I can try this. The units with Loksound that I already have already creep tie to tie on step 1 without running the auto config tuning. Getting it even better - almost hard to imagine.
Well, then, get going Randy.
Randy without a layout is like a morning without sunshine.
Alton Junction
I'm trying, see my thread in the Layouts section.
rrinker I'm trying, see my thread in the Layouts section. --Randy
Mark, I changed the cv's as suggested and love now the loco runs. Next question, now I can not get the motor to manually notch down, manual notch up,(f9) is ok but F10 will not notch the motor down. I have to lift loco off the track to get it to idle down. Any thoughts?
basementdweller Mark, I changed the cv's as suggested and love now the loco runs. Next question, now I can not get the motor to manually notch down, manual notch up,(f9) is ok but F10 will not notch the motor down. I have to lift loco off the track to get it to idle down. Any thoughts?
Are you turning F9 off first ? F10 will not work if F9 is still on - and vice-versa. Ideally, F9 and F10 would work better if they were configured to be momentary, but not many systems allow you to do that. You have to learn how long to turn F9 and F10 on / off to advance in single notches. Leave F9 on for too long and it will run straight to the top and get stuck there for a duration based on how long F9 was left on.
I appreciate your advice and I will pay attention to what you suggest. Just for info I am using the Lenz set 100. Thanks.
Not yet, I haven't had time to touch the railroad.
basementdweller I am thinking using the Loksound Select Micro decoder.
I am thinking using the Loksound Select Micro decoder.
The Loksound Select Micro is only rated at .75 amps. From my stall current tests, the Atlas HO S2 draws more current...around 1 amp. I am fairly new at decoder installations; I am looking to do a similar installation--sound for an Atlas S4. How does that decoder work if the loco draws more current than the current at which the decoder is rated?
Thanks
Matt
'Stall Current' was thought up by decoder manufacturers in the early days of DCC and inefficient motors so the end users wouldn't/couldn't blame them for a fried decoder. Under normal operating conditions, the wheels are going to spin when the locomotive is overloaded, thus alleviating a 'stall.' I've wired a single NCE D13SRJ decoder into an older Athearn DD40X with dual motors and it has not burned up.
ok thanks for the reply.