Just wanted a reccommendation on my dcc wiring before I start. I am planning on a combination of scotchlock connectors for the bus wires which are 14 gauge, and will be soldering 18 gauge feeder wires from the 22 gauge terminal wire drops on the track to the bus wire. Does that sound good? 14 gauge bus wire....18 gauge feeders, 22 gauge track terminal connectors from peco. Thanks
As reported in another recent thread I used Scotchlok #905 connectors for 14 and 18 gauge wire. I made up 70, 22 ga short wires of three inches long and soldered 18 gauge wire, two feet long to the 22 gauge wire at the bench. Soldered all the 22 gauge to the track, always color coded red and black for the correct track. Spent about four hours under the layout connecting the IDC's to buss and 18 gauge feeders and done. That was two and a half years ago. No problems. I live in a low humidity climate and the IDC'S really work for me. Doug
If you're going to solder anyway - if you use a stripepr like the Ideal Stripmaster, you can make small bare spots along the bus, wrap the feeder (the 22 wire) around the bus, and solder. Done. One solder joint per feed wire, same as you were gong to do anyway, PLUS no IDCs to buy.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Also the Stripmaster is a breeze to use.
Take Care!
Frank
I agree with Frank and Randy on the Stripper
Been using it since I began building my current layout back in 2001
I have over 2500 drops and the squeeze stripper make placing the spot to solder those drop easy and quick.
Once they are soldered - you won't have to think about the wiring anymore!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
I forgot to mention caboose62, that I used 12 inch channel lok pliers to to crimp the IDC's. They worked really well and I had them on hand as opposed to buying those crazy expensive Scotchlok pliers. I also hate spending days under the layout soldering. Doug
rgengineoiler I forgot to mention caboose62, that I used 12 inch channel lok pliers to to crimp the IDC's. They worked really well and I had them on hand as opposed to buying those crazy expensive Scotchlok pliers. I also hate spending days under the layout soldering. Doug
Doug
I was smart enough to design the Bus wire so I could pull it out to the edge of the layout and solder the drops while sitting!
To hold the Bus wire - I use Metal single hole Contuit Clamps - One Drywall Screw up into the joist
I can then just turn the clamp sidways and remove or drop the Bus Wire into it and twist the clamp back inline with the joist!
As I was always told - WORK SMARTER - NOT Harder!
I know that I may get some flack on this but. We as modelers need to know how to solder. Solder and some heat shrink and you will never have to worry about if the IDC's are making connections or when you have a power problem if it is the IDC is the problem. Learn how to solder, It will cost less and will be a reliable connection for the life of your layout.
But that is just MO.
caboose62 Just wanted a reccommendation on my dcc wiring before I start. I am planning on a combination of scotchlock connectors for the bus wires which are 14 gauge, and will be soldering 18 gauge feeder wires from the 22 gauge terminal wire drops on the track to the bus wire. Does that sound good? 14 gauge bus wire....18 gauge feeders, 22 gauge track terminal connectors from peco. Thanks
caboose 62
I wonder if they Scotch Lock their Track Drops to the Rails instead of soldering! ;-) ;-)
Terminal tracks have screws (or the Bachmann ones with the connector), and there are always the overpriced terminal joiners with the wires already soldered on.
I, myself, have been soldering since I was building Heath Kit radio transmitters in the late 50's as a kid. I just don't like getting a kink in my neck soldering under the layout with bi-folcals. Give me IDC'S any day and done properly they should last the rest of my life time.
IDC'S have been reliable in the Auto industry for many years. I live in a low humidity area also and corrosion was never a problem on my first layout that lasted around 25 years before I took it down and started over. Yes it was all soldered but I am not concerned about using modern ideas. The space age has done so much for all of us. Doug
I too worked in the auto industry for years and also in the rental equipment industry. Field mechanics would use IDC's in the field to fix a problem. Two or thrre days later you would get a service call on the same piece of equipment. Guess what!! The IDC had failed or severed the wire and the electrical connection was broken. Equipment was down again.
Service manager finally band the use of them and removed them from all service trucks.
I know that a layout would be inside and not be subject to the elements of outdoors but after seeing so many failures I don't wish to use them.
I don't think that you will find any IDC's used in the space industry. could be wrong has I have never worked in that field.
rgengineoiler I just don't like getting a kink in my neck soldering under the layout with bi-folcals.
I admit that I'm a poor solderer. Either the iron is too hot, or not hot enough, or the piece to be soldered wants to run away because I don't have a third hand to keep it in place while I hold the solder and iron in my other two hands.
I don't like the neck kink either. And bifocals are their own problem - either the work is too close or too far away to be in proper range of the close work lens.
So, yes, I do use the IDCs. But I don't use them for every track connection. My test railroad is an around the walls affair. I found that there are many locations where two or more tracks are in close proximity to each other. So one end of the feeder wire is soldered to the track. The other end gets a lug connector. All the lug connectors in each area are connected to a terminal strip where the like phase connection points are jumpered together. Then from there are two leads that get connected to the main bus leads using the IDC.
If there is ever a failure of an IDC, it is easy to check with a meter at the input connection to the terminal strip. And if I ever have a need to trouble shoot a section of track, it is easy to disconnect the lug at the terminal strip. No unsoldering necessary, and no disconnecting an IDC necessary.
woodone I too worked in the auto industry for years and also in the rental equipment industry. Field mechanics would use IDC's in the field to fix a problem. Two or thrre days later you would get a service call on the same piece of equipment. Guess what!! The IDC had failed or severed the wire and the electrical connection was broken. Equipment was down again. Service manager finally band the use of them and removed them from all service trucks. I know that a layout would be inside and not be subject to the elements of outdoors but after seeing so many failures I don't wish to use them. I don't think that you will find any IDC's used in the space industry. could be wrong has I have never worked in that field.
I worked too long as a mechanic and I learned early on that they were a sure fire way to have a comeback!
Our Club figured the same thing - being inside the layout would not experience the salt etc. that an outside unit would and tried them on our Lionel Display
They worked great for 3 years and making changes to the layout was quick and easy
BUT
Then we began having unexplained slow downs on certain blocks and by just reaching under the lauout and wiggling the wires - the block would run OK once again!
For those that love them - go ahead and keep using them - you won't ever find them breaking down for you as YOU won't have your layout running that long anyway to ever find out!
BUT - My cirrent layout has been up and running for over 14 years now and I NEVER have to worry about it NOT running as everything is Soldered!
SO when you have problems - don't worry - it isn't tthe IDCs as they NEVER fail! ;-)
The key is using the right wire. ANd wire to wire joints, it's hard to mess up soldering that. It's not like soldering an electronic component (or feeder to rail) where too much heat will melt or ruin something.
The right wire menas solid for feeder, stranded for bus (though it doesn;t really matter for the bus). With solid feeds, you can wrap the stripped end around the bare spot on the bus, tightly. I was getting reliable power before I went back and soldered any. I may have to change my method on my new (planned0 layotu since the lower deck will be lower than I typically build to, but with narrow benchwork and a decent height, I can sit in a chair alongside the layotu and solder without kinking my neck up under the benchwork to try and reach the connection point. Many of those concepts for gettign the most layotu in the given space (like around the walls 5x9 vs a sheet 4x8) and keeping the viewing height up ALSO provide many advantages during the construction phase.
I too wear bifocals, but looking through the main lens (distance) at arm's length or 3/4 arms length while soldering, while not clear enough to read printed text, it plenty clear enough to see the difference between the wire, the soldering gun tip, and my fingers. The tightly wrapped solid feeder means I only need 2 hands - one for the gun, one for the solder.
Actually the mechanical splice is more important than soldering it...the solder is used to make sure it does not come lose over time. If you stagger your feeders, you don't even need to tape or insulate them. Power lineman do it all day long. This 72 yr old disabled vet can still do it...just have a hard time getting up again after I'm down. I too need glasses to see close. I use a cheap pair of Walgreen 250 power magnify glasses when working close, I have them on right now while I type this. A Ideal stripmaster, small needle nose pliers,60/40 solder and a 25watt Weller pencil iron with three built in LED's in the handle that shine on the joint.
After owning my own trucks and doing my own work...when it came to electrical work, you could not beat a butt joint connector shrink wrapped, to stand up to any weather or situation. The crimper I used was also important. One side was round for the wire and the other side would push a tooth into the wire when squeezed, use a lighter to shrink the wrap and forget about it.