I use Posi-taps to hook up wires to the buss, reusable and don't nick the wires, not expencive ifd bought in bulk. I have no terminals on my layout and don't need a wiring diagram, look under my layout and anyone can fiqure it out!!!!!!!!!
Bayfield Transfer Railway I'm going to go counter to some here and say that suitcase connectors can be extremely reliable. I first encountered them in Bell Telephone service, and they were used specifically for reliability reasons. But not all suitcase connectors are created equal. 3M ones really are better, and it wouldn't hurt to spend a few bucks on the specialized crimping tool. But done correctly with the right sized wire they are extremely reliable.
I'm going to go counter to some here and say that suitcase connectors can be extremely reliable. I first encountered them in Bell Telephone service, and they were used specifically for reliability reasons.
But not all suitcase connectors are created equal. 3M ones really are better, and it wouldn't hurt to spend a few bucks on the specialized crimping tool. But done correctly with the right sized wire they are extremely reliable.
I use the 3M connectors for all of my feeder wires to the buss, but that is the only place I have used them so far. So far, no problems and they are very convient and easy to use. I would recommend them for that purpose.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
I'm with Brother Elias (Broadway Lion) in that I prefer to keep my electricals along the layout edge. My terminal strips are terminal blocks, most now made on thick styrene (acquired by dumpster diving) Each terminal is a stud, a machine screw with lock washer and standard washer on the back side and a hex nut over a washer on the active side. Wires are routed between alternate rows of studs, fastened to the appropriate one by clamping it between washers. A single nut on top of the top washer is torqued tight enough to hold everything in place and in contact. That leaves a space between stud rows for labels for the terminals:
||--o label ||--o label ||--* label ||
|| label o--|| label o--|| label o--||
||--o label ||--o label ||--o label ||
|| - wire bundle -- - wire to stud o - stud
The studs are 6-32 or 8-32 machine screws, and I limit them to six wires maximum. Wires are bent with pliers and secured with a small socket in a ratchet drive or speed handle.
Since my layout is steel stud 'C works like L' girder construction, my main girders and joists make natural wire runs. The only spider webs under my layout were put there by hopeful arachnids, now dead of starvation and dessication.
Where I need to disconnect things (like removable yard throats) I use standard computer D-connectors with #22 wire soldered in place. Can't mis-connect them, since they only go in one way. NOTE - none of these are bus wires, only drops and connections for other intermittent low-power loads. If I needed to connect bus wires I'd probably use one of those 'three by one' standard automotive trailer connections.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with electricals as bulletproof as I can make them)
Bob
I probably would use a Spreadsheet and just make Borders around the cell and then type in the needed info!
I could resize the cell (Height & Width) as needed.
BUT! - Thanks for the Offer - It is still a great idea!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
cmrproducts farrellaa I use both type terminal strips but for the Tortise machines I prefer the Euro style (All Electronics). I made a common label for the Tortise connections and it is very easy to install them. (this one is not fully wired in the photo but the connector on the Tortise is done at the bench and then just connected under the layout!). Everything on/under my layout is labeled; as mentioned by others, you can't always count on your memory. -Bob Bob I like the Label! I may have to try that on my layout. Thanks for shairing! BOB H - Clarion, PA
farrellaa I use both type terminal strips but for the Tortise machines I prefer the Euro style (All Electronics). I made a common label for the Tortise connections and it is very easy to install them. (this one is not fully wired in the photo but the connector on the Tortise is done at the bench and then just connected under the layout!). Everything on/under my layout is labeled; as mentioned by others, you can't always count on your memory. -Bob
I use both type terminal strips but for the Tortise machines I prefer the Euro style (All Electronics). I made a common label for the Tortise connections and it is very easy to install them. (this one is not fully wired in the photo but the connector on the Tortise is done at the bench and then just connected under the layout!). Everything on/under my layout is labeled; as mentioned by others, you can't always count on your memory.
I like the Label!
I may have to try that on my layout.
Thanks for shairing!
Bob, I have the label in CorelDraw but could send you a PDF if you want. Don't know what computer software you (or others if they are interested) have.
farrellaa I use both type terminal strips but for the Tortise machines I prefer the Euro style (All Electronics). I made a common label for the Tortise connections and it is very easy to install them. (this one is not fully wired in the photo but the connector on the Tortise is done at the bench and then just connected under the layout!) -Bob
I use both type terminal strips but for the Tortise machines I prefer the Euro style (All Electronics). I made a common label for the Tortise connections and it is very easy to install them. (this one is not fully wired in the photo but the connector on the Tortise is done at the bench and then just connected under the layout!)
cmrproducts rrinker Unless you are planning to display the underside of the layout (I once built a data center that had a huge glass wall, so every patch cable had to be color-coded, perfectly cut to length, and perfectly threaded through the racks), I'd use the cheapest thing (usually the black terminal strips) and keep the 'cool' to the topside of the layout. --Randy I agree with Randy here - No one needs to see the underside of the Layout except the Owner! Just document every wire - You won't believe how much one can forget in a year - let alone 12 years (the age of my current layout). I hang my BUS wires to the underside of the layout with Metal Conduilt Straps - inexpensive and quick to attach. My BUS wires are paired and I wrap colored electrical tape around the Bus every 18" or so - makes it easy to identify and keeps the Bus in a neat bundle! I solder every connection for ZERO Problems - I don't have to worry if I installed the Suitcase connectors correctly as you will NEVER find any under my 2500 sq ft layout! I use the Screw Terminal Barrier Strips - I crimp and solder all of the wire ends to the BUS wires - again ZERO Problems. Document every thing! BOB H - Clarion, PA
rrinker Unless you are planning to display the underside of the layout (I once built a data center that had a huge glass wall, so every patch cable had to be color-coded, perfectly cut to length, and perfectly threaded through the racks), I'd use the cheapest thing (usually the black terminal strips) and keep the 'cool' to the topside of the layout. --Randy
Unless you are planning to display the underside of the layout (I once built a data center that had a huge glass wall, so every patch cable had to be color-coded, perfectly cut to length, and perfectly threaded through the racks), I'd use the cheapest thing (usually the black terminal strips) and keep the 'cool' to the topside of the layout.
--Randy
I agree with Randy here - No one needs to see the underside of the Layout except the Owner!
Just document every wire - You won't believe how much one can forget in a year - let alone 12 years (the age of my current layout).
I hang my BUS wires to the underside of the layout with Metal Conduilt Straps - inexpensive and quick to attach.
My BUS wires are paired and I wrap colored electrical tape around the Bus every 18" or so - makes it easy to identify and keeps the Bus in a neat bundle!
I solder every connection for ZERO Problems - I don't have to worry if I installed the Suitcase connectors correctly as you will NEVER find any under my 2500 sq ft layout!
I use the Screw Terminal Barrier Strips - I crimp and solder all of the wire ends to the BUS wires - again ZERO Problems.
Document every thing!
I agree with Bob about suitcase connectors as it is a mechanical connection and they can get expensive unless you can find them in bulk. When I tap into a bus, i strip off the insulation from the bus, wrap the feeder around the bare wire and solder the connection.
I few years ago we had an electronics company go out of business and a friend of mine had the responsibility of disposing of inventory. He called me in and I walked out with boxes of terminal strips, large spools of wire, tools and whatever else i could get my hands on. All my wires are color coded and when I use a stranded wire on a terminal strip, the wire is tinned before wrapping it around the screw. Everything is checked and documented as there are hundreds of connections.
I also don't want anyone crawling under the layout. There's too much 'stuff' hanging down that could get bumped and what's underneath isn't the main attraction.
There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....
Great advice gentlemen, thanks
The White european style barrier strips are Great. No crimping on connectors or wrapping the wire around the screw. The price at allelectronics is HALF of what they are at Radio Shack and you don't have to go to six RS stores to get enough. These strips can be cut to whatever configuration you need. I use the TB-35's for my DCC buss and the smaller TB-7"s for my signal wiring. I get almost everything I need there.
I also use Anderson Power Pole connectors for any connections that I need to take apart occasionally. They can be purchased at powerwerks.com
Those things are EXPENSIVE.
Wiring of LION is CHEAP and is just as good if not better.
Him print the paper layout guides on computer printer, him uses nails for binding posts, got some brass plated nails at Runnings Farm and Fleet, (THEY thought there were to be used to hold copper colored carpet holders). Take solder real good.
Soldering Iron is 1000% easier than using a screw driver. Screwing is bad on the wrists and eyesight. Do not upt wiring under the table, it belongs along the edge where you can see it. Later you can cover it up with a removable fascia.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Look for Eurostyle Terminal Strips. All electronics has them in different sizes and Amperage ratings, ranging in price from $2 to $4 each, their catalog numbers TB-7, TB-20, TB-35, and TB-50, with these numbers representing the Amp ratings and wire gauge they will accept.
http://www.allelectronics.com
Radio Shack may also have them if you're near one that is not going to be closed, but their price would probably be double or triple the All Electronics' cost.
Other major electronics houses such as Digikey and Mouser would also be a good source to check.
If you're fortunate enough to live in an area with a local electronics parts supplier, check there, too. One in Tucson, Arizona sometimes has assorted Eurostyle terminal strips in their bargain bin.
I am looking for wiring strips, connectors etc for a new layout , does anyone know of a some cool alternaitives to the ugly black strips?